I’ve been through 2 Colorado winters on my AT 35’s, and I couldn’t ask for any better on the road. Snow wheeling…they are good, but no replacement for chains. I’m at 20,000 miles on these on my 4xe, and I am buying 37’s when these are worn.
We’ve had 3 smallish snow storms here in Northern Colorado this season, and in each one of them my factory LEDs iced over to the point that they created a flood light effect on the snow and moisture in the air - making them less useful than the halogens are.
Don’t get me wrong - I love the...
Exactly. The major issue here is the Wrangler’s headlight design - on my Subaru Forester, waxing the LED headlights worked well, because the snow and ice would slide off. Now, it just packs around it until I have tons of glare and very little forward light!
@Diode Dynamics - any chance the...
Thanks for the reply - bummer, as I’d have ordered a heated Diode Dynamics headlight immediately, even at a higher price point, as I trust the product.
I’ve got the SS3 Max in selective yellow, and I’m very happy with them. However, they also were iced over. The snow would pack in and the...
Any chance these are going to have heating functionality?
After driving through a relatively warm snowstorm yesterday, I was reminded of how bad the JL headlight design packs snow and ice onto the lights, and the factory LED makes that significantly worse with no heat going forward.
@Chocolate Thunder I had the same issue but didn’t want to cut the Armorlite floor, I used the smallest seat lift (front and rear) from @DesertDoesIt and it never catches now.
Have you tried charging at a public charger?
If you were able to charge with one, you’d know the Jeep is okay and there’s likely an issue with your charger.
I wouldn’t necessarily say the opposite result (your Jeep not charging on a public charger) is conclusive as many of the public...
I went a little crazy and pulled the fuse box and all the trays under it, then cut the nipple off the existing grommet on the firewall and pulled the lines through from the inside with a bit of cable lube and a straightened coat hanger (I read horror stories about using a tool to push/pull...
Looks like the picture that shows the hardware has a couple of rivnuts - I’m guessing there is frame drilling required.
I just did the front frame side trackbar brace from them that had the same requirement, wasn’t too bad!
Finished my e-clik install over the Memorial Day weekend on my 4xe Rubicon, and I have the same exact issue. I’ll reach out to SDI tomorrow to see what kind of response I get.
Maybe, I’ve had the same thought and have been reading reviews…I’ll probably have one sometime this week to try out. Will still be tough on the rear hole, as the drill bit would need to be fairly lengthy as well, but I’ll try it anyway.