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Had a cylinder 1 misfire (JL 3.6) all signs pointed to bad lifters/rockers, including the noise. Changed all out (to my surprise with 110k miles they all looked fine). When assembling, one of the last bolts on the last camshaft snapped. Had to drill out and put insert, changed to all new bolts...

No, sorry completely forgot about this thread.

I live in SoCal (not much rust here) but I've been using Mavcoat for years now and it seems to work just fine. I typically spray it over after a heavy wash, usually after snow/beach trips. I don't seem to have any rust issues. I use on on exposed metals as well (projects sitting for a while)...

Still have them? If so, I'll take one

Not sure if I missed it. Curious about psi drop, if any?

Thanks for the write up! Going through this myself right now lol

Not at this time. I'd prefer to sell them as a set

The part numbers are etched on the lower portion of each body. This is exactly how they came out of each, new box, minus the Rancho sticker on the body which I never bothered to install and they were locked in a short length for packaging.

Sure. Got some questions first though: - Are you happy with the current ride/shocks? (Get springs/shocks vs spacers) - Are you looking to increase performance? - Are you going to do your own wrenching? Also, since snow performance is important, id recommend either the BFG K02 or Falken Wildpeak...

Now that you mentioned it, I didn't realize he did not change tires. Can try rotating front to rear to assess the difference. After DW, the internal tire belts can be damaged and necessitate replacement.

I notices this as well. However, the steering damper does not, at least should not, be used to alleviate DW. Me thinks this is a bad case of bump steer as a result of poor alignment (assuming all else is good)

lol sounds like you are but it HAS to be something. You really need a buddy to help you check all this stuff

It can, especially once lifter and especially of the rear track bar riser bracket was not added. Since the front and rear axles travel at opposite arcs (rear track bar connects from passenger side from to driver side axle). So if these weren't addressed AND their off, through suspension travel...

Is your axle centered BTW?

Since you had the wobble in the old axle and you've changed most things, I'd take a closer look at whatever is left and alignment. Since you've had DW for some time, I'd check the wheel hubs and the mounting points on the aluminum knuckles for deformation/wear. BTW, for the frame side track bar...

Definitely sounds like death wobble. As I understood, this has been happening prior to the axle replacement, as well as the track bar and tie rode/drag link? Do you have more photos? Have you moved the mounting locations of the track bar or drag link? I assume your toe is set well? Have you...

Budget and intended use, anticipated performance and maintenance requirements will dictate your decision. If you want the cheapest possible option: get a 2" spacer lift with shock extensions and extended bump stops, move rear sway bar endlinks to front, Mopar or similar extended rear sway bar...

Really need more info and photos. Do you have a lift? Have you checked for any bent components i.e. axle, brackets, etc. Are you sure this is death wobble or is this bump steer? When did this begin? Although a poor alignment will contribute to the problem, this mostly occurs when axles are...

Surprised no one mentioned Hawk pads. I've had them with good look, combined with Raybestos coated rotors. Very similar feel to OEM but has higher heat ceiling. Whatever you do, don't get drilled/slotted rotors (especially those with both). Upgrading to a hotter threshold brake fluid will help...

Glad you're ok. It doesn't look bad honestly but would definitely push for a new front axle. Its more than likely a little bent already and can lead to trouble down the road.