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Here is the STL file ...

There are threads that describe how to get the lighter out - it's a bit tricky. There is a tool for this but if I remember it right I just stuck some small zip ties or screw drivers in to separate the pieces. After that I simply 3D printed this adapter and the knob fit in just perfect. Only...

Selling my basically new (used once) 270 XT Max awning. It is great for camping and when you are not doing off-camber rock-crawling!!! But since my off-road teardrop has it's own awning I find I can do without when camping ... so it has been sitting in the garage unused. Comes with the needed...

Did you ever resolve this? My daughter hit a driveway column during driving practice and the bracket got shattered into many pieces. My guess is it comes with the rest of the Wheel Flare Molding ...

I made a small bracket ... seemed like the perfect spot.

I just talked to Mopar Warranty Department (suggested by Tom) to see if I could get coverage for motor and transmission with 3.5" non-mopar lift - he said with anything lifted above 2" I might not get any reimbursement even if it is not related to lift, non-mopar <= 2" would still be ok . So...

Remove the 12V outlet insert as described here. You will need to 3d print a small adapter that replaces the metal 12V plug insert. (I have the zipped STL file attached, you could also use an online 3D printing service or if you pay for shipping I can send you my spare :) The rest is straight...

Just to add another mounting option to the list ... If you don’t mind that the numbers are barely readable (they still are from the right angle!), this position for the redarc knob is still very accessible and super stealthy when not in use :) Could also get rid of cover and mount flush if you...

For anybody else going down this path - use the 3073-p harness and you won’t need to swap any wires. I didn’t like the red arc round mounting plate so I got creative ... also very stealthy ;)

Just had the TSB done and slack is gone, very minor pull to the left but I might be able to live with that. However - I noticed the steering gear box bolts were not torqued to spec and when I added my synergy track bar brace back on and tried to torque to 99 ft-lbs spec one of the four bolts...

Just to report back here - had the steering TSB done. Death wobble is gone! The car does not drive straight as long as it did before when if I take my hands off (either left or right), but the steering is much tighter now and the pot hole I used to trigger DW in 2 out of 3 attempts is now 0 out...

As I said - just a theory - and to better understand the topic I brushed up my understanding by watching this Video from 1956! So I get it now that there is no electronic torque sensor - but there is a mechanical control valve that is actuated by the movement of the cam shaft. This works both by...

I had an interesting conversation with one of the techs at MC - he pointed out that since JLs have an electro/hydraulic power steering system there is a torque sensor somewhere that will likely get different readings if the steering stabilizer is removed. That means that if the SS is removed the...

Did that before and all joints, bolts etc. are solid. Even tried filming it during DW but camera turned off before I got to the good stuff. But there is a clicking sound when steering turns past center that makes me wonder. Will remove synergy brace and put the old pitman arm nut back on. If the...

Trying to tightening Pitman arm once more is next for me, too. Just got a better breaker bar so will try to give it a few more ft-lbs. BTW: I found a typo in the torque spec for lower control arms on this forum that I had used and was hopeful that fixing that would help (it should be 103...

It seems the Front Lower Control arm section has a typo. I assume it should read: Lower control arm rear nut | 140 + 145° | 103 +145° | - | Lower control arm front nut | 140 + 145° | 103 +145° | - |

Similar setup and story - new JL with ~3k miles, GC 3.5" lift with Patagonia 37s - full Synergy upgrades (HD bars and brace etc.) and developed DW at 35mph. Found a worn out mount hole for trackbar at axle side. Tried torqueing to 150ft-lbs - no improvement so I added Teraflex axle side trackbar...

Bought my rear advantek cover from Northridge4x4 a few weeks ago and instantly checked the bolts for correct size - they were correct. However, trying to tighten the bolts to spec (30 ft lbs, with a precision torque wrench) one of the bolts snapped off ...

Any chance that the extra metal from the beadlock bolts interferes with the signal? I have some MR101's coming with 37" Patagonia's so I would like to avoid running into the same issue ...