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Ultimately they said they found a cracked valve cover, but it took seven trips to the dealership to get it square. I think the majority of the problem after the front crank seal was replaced was just problems getting the timing cover to seal, found a lot of RTV smeared all over trying to get it...

I'm the OP for the other thread that has been mentioned here a few times and I completely agree that my failure was due to something physically wrong with the seal or housing. It is now going back in saturday for the third/fourth attemp to repair, and I specifically called out the last time 5...

So this isnt fixed and becoming a giant pain. First trip the dealer called me about 6 hours after it was dropped off saying it was ready. They then claimed that the oil I was seeing was from the top of the engine because the tech spilled oil during the last oil change. That was a month prior...

Nope. Have to drain some. You'll notice 6qts pennzoil. I mentioned it to the service writer and the swore that they only filled with 5.5 which is still too much. I mentioned that the level was up on the wire of the dipstick and he insisted that it was fine. At that point I was just ready to...

Well, just got her back from the dealer today. Looks like front crank seal as well as timing cover gasket, both valve covers and the intake plenum gaskets. I'm sure intake plenum gaskets were just replaced as it was removed for access. So far all looks good.

So far I think. Dealer hasn't advised otherwise

Front crank seal

Last night. Its sitting at home today and headed to dealer 1st thing tomorrow morning.

I should clarify, June 18, 2019

Last oil change was June 18, was a freebie at the dealer, I'll have to dig for the paperwork to find out how many quarts they put in. Checked level last night when I discovered this and level was good, with the amount of oil outside the engine it seems possible that it could've been overfilled...

So i did some searching but only found info on rear seal leaking, anyone ever seen a leak this bad on the front of the 3.6?

Thanks to all for the compliments. Got the chance to take it out the past couple weekends and everything has performed flawlessly so far.

Lol. After lift installation before alignment I thought the same thing. Steering was very loose at first and the jeep wandered all over the road. Alignment cured that though.

I must be mistaken then. When I was going through locker selection with ARB, they had three separate rear lockers for the JL. RD244 was listed for M200, RD245 for the Sport/Sahara M220 option and the RD246 that is listed for front/rear rubi M210/M220. For some reason I was thinking the 246...

I can tell you from experience that the old d30 differentials fit the m186. Dana even calls it a d30. I have the ARB RD100 installed in mine and everything went in no problem. Cant say for sure that the pinion is exactly the same but I think it is.

I just went through some confusion with ARB on my axles when ordering lockers and I believe that there is actually a difference in the two M220 variants in the JL. The M220 rear offered in the Rubi is 35 spline and the M220 option in the Sport/Sahara is 32 spline. I can also confirm that on...

So, after months of research and planning and about four days of immense sweating and a little bleeding in the Florida heat, our vision for our rig is starting to take shape. The wife and I have self installed everything so far, we still have a lot of wish list left but so far i think it's...

The question was more regarding the properties of synthetic vs mineral oil and the potential that the synthetic may not allow the gear to break in properly. I went ahead with mineral oil for break in based on the recommendation from one of the mechanics at work that builds drag cars as a hobby...

@JLRubiMD I found these the other day, if you are planning to go after your gears yourself they should prove useful.

Good luck with the new shop. I got all of mine seated tonight. They are certainly tight but not impossible to make work.