Essentially the JLR costs 1k more, but they are giving you the 2k 8.4 package for free. So for those who recently ordered with that option, you could have had the car for 1k cheaper less affiliate discount = 500 cheaper.
The chatter that Stellantis is halting incentives that allow a dealer to sell a car for low margins. I received a quote yesterday for the typical 12% below with TL. So for now, this looks like a dealer issue. As an example, I called a another popular place in Houston, and they are not moving...
Hi - what I discovered is that the prices have gone up in the middle of the month. I got two orders from two different places and they all now have -500 for the 2.0 engine on the Rubicon as opposed to -1000. The price of a Rubicon went up $700 for me since the Aug. order guide release
I just got a price quote back on a 2 door rubicon, I noticed a few price differences on the options but not on the base price when comparing to the August order guide
-2.0 is now (500) as opposed to (1000) in August guide
-trailer is up $50
-leather is up $30
-keyless is up $50
seems odd that...
A couple thoughts on my research
-Uconnect 5.0 might be introduced in 22
-It doesn’t seem like one year is a driving factor in resale value
So if 5.0 is worth the price increase(will Jeep introduce a major price increase due to demand and inflation?), then wait.
I
I think it’s an interesting question on how much value you lose by buying the end of a model year. If you compare std equipped JLRs from 2021 to 2020 to 2019 with 10k miles in KBB, there is very little value difference. That may suggest that buying a 2021 is a better deal than facing what ever...
Sorry no idea, I didn’t take note of that. By looking at them, there is no reason why one would cost 6 times more. I think it’s best to call the parts store and ask them to recommend the bolts based upon the 4 door diagrams unless someone knows what they are on this forum.
Thanks for all the advice from everyone. Here are my lessons learned from completing install on a JLR
Removal of bolts
-Used a 3/8”! wrench with a 12” handle. I felt that I had better control of not over torqueing.
-I went slow. A couple clicks at a time. I did hear some pops and reserved...
New issue happened to me today on my JLR build 6/13
The cluster display was frozen after start up on the rubicon logo and just to the left it showed since 1941 with the mileage at the bottom. The left hand steering wheel buttons would not change the display, and the right hand steering buttons...
Put me down for 3/4” on a 6/13/18 build date using a tee square on the wheel and looking at the steering arm with engine off - I will call that a mechanical dead spot.
My guess is that I am within 1/8”. I created boundaries at 1/8” marks and moved to those points until I consistently confirmed...
I am a 6/13/18 build date with a 9/16” at the steering column looking at when the steering arm moves which is probably quite a bit more on the outer circle. I am going to measure using the outside of the wheel today and get the dimensions of the steering wheel circle. I think it’s far easier to...
With engine off it’s 9/16” measured at steering column. With moving back/forth between those boundaries you can start to see some slight immaterial movement. Without even looking at the steering arm you can feel that’s where the resistance picks up. Looks like my number is close enough to...
JLR 2 door MDH 061305 - a Wednesday(good for me) 5am maybe not so good.
-The car tracks fine
-There is a dead spot
-it’s difficult to measure unless you have something on the shaft after it exits the box
I did the following to get a close enough measurement
-put car on flat slab in garage...
Confirmed that the brake pedal feel was rock hard when it wouldn’t start compared to a normal start which is soft and has travel - that must be a key symptom. I will send all this information to service and see if they can match it up with a root cause.