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12.0 is low. Around 12.7 to 14.7 is what I see. Pushing the pedal shows around 12-13+ volts, and releasing the pedal shows around 14.2 - 14.7 for me. I believe one is the reading from the alternator, and the higher one from the battery.

Okay, on dead idle it is is too low. Does your stop/start work or does it say "Not ready" or "battery charging"?

Normal for the JLs. When you step on the accelerator, the voltage reading decreases to 12.x and when you take the foot off the pedal, it goes up to 14.x

You are probably going through more active regens too in those driving conditions - so averaging 19 mpg in that situation sounds about right.

Just a small amount needs to be drained till you only see diesel comes out. You might not see more than a few drops of water. Here is an official Mopar video for the same. (Just for water removal)

If I remember correctly, the other one is the "hood open" sensor.

EPA I suppose.

I have no problem with ESS. On street driving when the turbo is not too hot, I prefer ESS. But I do turn ESS off when I drive on the highway or under load and come to an exit where I have to stop at a light. Stop/Start should have been programmed not to be active when the turbo is hot.

Correct - Diesel a.

Page 17 of the manual. Is this what you were looking for - the boost part? In the Advance Setup, choose BST instead of MAP.

This is a snapshot of the gauges you can program for EcoDiesel.

You have to program blank XGauges. You have to enter the 4 sets of commands for each XGauge and give it a name. The commands are in the link below for EcoDiesel. https://www.scangauge.com/x-gauge-commands/3-0l-ecodiesel/

Thank you

I have found inside the JL, 3.0L is quieter than the 3.6L. And while driving on a highway, since the RPMs are also lower on the diesel, the only sound that is dominant is the wind noise.

Since there is a hole or opening by the water fuel separator valve on the cover, can the water be drained without removing the cover?

You would probably get the latest if you order from Scangauge but can't be sure if you buy from anywhere else. However I bought from my neighborhood Auto Zone store and it turned out to have the latest version.

They are probably trying to get the max information using least amount of characters but beats me why they need to be so miserly about it. :)

Pretty easy and I only look at the first 5 numbers after the state code. First 2 number minus 1 = year manufactured. If it is 21 then 21 - 1 = 20, so 2020 is the year of the manufacture. The next 3 digits needs to be subtracted by 365 to get the month and date of manufacture. If it is 165, then...

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Does the cerakote comes from factory, or is it something you got it done yourself?