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For a portable compressor like this in a similar price range, the Smittybilt or Viair seems to be the go to’s.

I enjoyed the video and was bummed for ya when you realized it didn’t make sense to continue. I supposedly have that route on Gaia. Perhaps I need to add some notes just in case.

The rear plugs, like is common on Toyotas, can be welded. With my Ox setup and the required cover that’s part of the mechanism, I don’t have another option. For the front, I’m going with a welded cover rather than the RC or Rancho skid considering the mild to moderate trails we take at the...

Your traction control algorithm doesn’t know what you’re TRYING to do. It just reacts. If you’re trying to push through deep snow and you want the treads to clear with rpm, turn off traction control. That’s why they enable you to disable it.

The higher you go, the lower the caster in degrees which makes the steering a little more sensitive/twitchy. The Rubi’s should come from the factory with Mopar LCA’s but they don’t. Probably comes down to cost reasons.

Those are the same length arms across all JL’s.

Is that the quote from Allmoparparts, a vendor here?

Unfortunately I do not have any experience with the Rancho control arms but after 16,000 miles on my Rubicon suspension equipped Sahara it’s been just fine. I think I spent $70 or less to my door for the Mopar control arms Dec ‘19. Did the price go up?

Have you had issues with reconnecting on imperfectly level ground or does it need to be FLAT to not fight with getting the bolt in? I’m not sure what direction to go.

I was thinking of sealing the plugs to the sheet metal floor pan with something semi-permanent but possible to remove if needed. Next came the thought of plugging the rubber mat itself so I’d need to order an extra set. Mine originally came with just the mat itself plugged. I looked underneath...

Anymore feedback on the Swayloc?

With end goal in mind, I’m thinking go with a 1” spacer to get the front back up. Doing that I think I’ll be dead level or nose up just a bit unloaded. Obviously worse when loaded. I like the stance now so I guess I should go 1” all around with a rear track bar relocation bracket to correct...

Yeah, makes sense. Some started in 2nd to keep from shifting before the 60 ft mark and for better traction sometimes. Thanks for checking on that.

Are you sure? Not quite the same vehicle but the same or very close transmission in a Challenger, you can start in second.

It’s very interesting but I don’t trust myself with something so unfamiliar to me. I’m lost at amps, volts, watts, DC etc and how it works together. Definitely doesn’t sound like a basic stereo install back in the day. :LOL: I do follow instructions quite well though.

I’m sure that’s what ours will look like lol. Our plan was July but we ended up making other plans due to the uncertainty of travel restrictions.

Thanks for sharing your experiences. By the pics, it does seems to sag pretty good loaded so I might want to keep more rake. And the Magruder Corridor is one of my near future I plan to see. We were supposed to go there and other spots this Summer but Covid happened.

For now, I don’t plan on a roof top tent. I might get a light removable rack for a couple of items like recovery boards and a rotopax. I currently have 1” of rake front to back but need to raise the front back up 1” after a winch and bumper install. That would be no rake at all if I just raised...

LOL. I meant where were you making contact coming down the steps on the underside of your Jeep.

That’s another like of mine. I’d like the 285/75/17 or 35/11.5/17 at the largest in C load. I watch Venture4WD on YT and his 315/70/17 KO2’s, also kinda light C loads, have not had sidewall issues. The wheeling he does in pretty spot on with what I want to do with the family in tow.