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Same experience. I had to change my last set after 5 years/ 55,000 mi not because of tread depth, but because they dried out and became very sketchy in cold rain. Plenty of tread left, but dry cracks in between the lugs.

No. They’re all just dumps. Just pick one with the best corrosion resistance. I went with the MBRP, it fits well with plenty of clearance, but it’s starting to rust fairly good. It’s supposed to be stainless but it’s looking pretty brown. It’s tucked up and hidden, so it doesn’t really bother...

Mine shows this every now and then too. It usually clears out after a restart. ….I don’t have lockers…..

….it can be done….

I’m on my third piece of glass with them trying to fix the problem. After the third piece of glass not working right out of the dealer I gave up on it. Left it for a couple years. I finally got around to diagnosing myself why it wasn’t working, as the tabs were still attached. The passenger side...

The factory sport LCA’s put me at 3.8°, after the lift the longer mopar LCAs put me at the same. I went with adjustable LCAs and set them to 6.0°. It made a HUGE difference in stability.

My sport S with a sagged front suspension from carrying a steel bumper and winch actually gained nearly 5” with the Mopar. It’s not complete though, and you’ll still need track bars and lower control arms. I like the springs, I like the shocks, but it’s not a “total” kit. When I got mine they...

That’s it. Very easy to replace. The engineers were smart enough to idiot proof assembly too. The tabs are keyed and only go back on their respective slots. They’re around $60.

I noticed a small increase in stability when I did my Fox stabilizer, though the monumental change I had came from bringing the castor from 3.8° (stock) to 6.0° with LCAs. Wandering went away, steering firmness went up, return to center was more positive, and wheel shake over bumps went away...

Older thread, but I just installed the Oracle light and the new production units have the same mentioned issues. The factory screws are too short to reach the wiper housing with the Oracle mold design. I just bought longer 4mm screws. The LED rings on the switches still stay on constantly. I’ll...

It does. It has a motion sensor for auto save during an accident. This one in particular uses a USB. A kit is sold to do what yours does though. Direct 12v connection to the battery, and a signal line to connect to a switched source.

This kit is from from voswitch. The PDC is on a board, individual relays and fuses, with a 100a master fuse on the feed line. The control cable is an old style serial bus computer cable, so there’s only one small cable to route into the cabin. It works good, but does not like VHF RF. I have a...

I have a Sport S, so no aux switches. I do have a stand alone power distribution center I installed though. Running another cable isn’t a big deal. I’m a weirdo and enjoy wiring.

This is what I’m doing short term. The camera came with a flush mount, and I ordered a 90° adapter on Amazon. What will annoy me now is the outlet door flopping around.

I was experimenting and had some odd behavior. I was working in the garage so I had the opportunity to babysit it. I did a few power cycles (unlock, door open/ close, run, off, door open/ close, lock). The first couple times the camera powered down after a few minutes, and powered back up after...

I own a wrangler now because I need its capability to access rural properties I have. I have a lift and 35’s on it because it makes things easier in the soupy spring and deep snowy months. Honestly, as a street only vehicle, it’s my least liked vehicle. It’s rough riding, drives like an old...

I’m installing a dash cam, and for the time being I want to use the media port on the center stack. Later on I’ll probably hard wire it to an ignition switched source, but to get it going now I’m using the USB 2.0 (not C) port. I have the option to use the cigarette lighter, which is switched...

You do have to be destructive and destroy the plastic pop rivets, but a new bag from Amazon is about $10, and no special tools were required. Just put a small box end on the head, and pull the stem with pliers until it breaks off. Pretty easy. The reaching with a battery in outstretched arms was...

I use a hook to hold my antenna down to fit into garages. I use para cord swagged into an electrical eyelet and screwed into the sport bar trim mount. Let the cord come up through the door with an open metal loop on the end. No leaks. I only stow the antenna when in garages though. I let...

Either way in will take about the same amount of time. I go in from the fender, just because I don’t want to pull the PDC apart and risk damaging it if there’s a less invasive way. When the PDC is split apart, it’s a bit delicate. Holding a 8 pound battery at arms length on your back while you...