Yup. I own a Rubicon 2 door. And I've been told I don't need the Rubcon. "It's a rock crawler". "Rubicons are only for hard-core off-road".
Well, I can tell you that when I pulled off a dirt road yesterday to park I was facing slightly downhill. This was in the Lake Tahoe area. When I got back...
It's quite common for manufacturers to use a capillary type of loctite (like the green stuff) after the part is assembled. This could quite easily get down into the adjuster threads. Just heat the adjuster, why fight it?
if you do this yourself how you are going to do the required software upgrade? I assume that will be an extra cost that you have to incur by taking it to the dealer? And of course there will be the ensuing fight with them to get them to do it.
How do these things work? In other words is it air with vaporized oil that passes through them? If so where is it coming from? And where does it go? Does the condensed oil return to the engine case after it has been separated?
I didn't know I could turn them off.
But the guy I bought the radios from was able to adjust the squelch, also using CHIRP and the info on this site https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_Squelch.php, I believe. The problem is gone.
My apologies for not updating this thread.
I'm with you 100% on this.
Hell I would even pay a, I don't know, "service charge" of say $100 if they would do the swap no questions asked, no haggling, and for the love of god no Jeep Cares. But if I pay $100 I need proof that they actually used the correct hardware and verification...
It's 52" wide by 27" high. On the width give or take a quarter inch. It was a little hard to get that measurement.
When I put my windows in, I fold the hard column in, on the side windows. And I just leave the bar for the rear window on the floor. It would probably fit but I'm usually in too...