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Thanks for everyone’s suggestions and pictures as you all have given me great ideas. Lots of you seem to use an Aux switch paired with a solenoid. I might go this route, but I’d have to add a Voswitch (as recommended) as all four of my OEM switches are used for lights (I got a lotta lights😂).

I just realized my winch power cable is unprotected if it shorts. My Smittybilt X20 pulls 400 amps and I rarely use my winch (so far only to operate it for winch maintenance) so I’d much prefer a disconnect switch rather than a fuse. I’m considering Flaming River 500 amp switch. What all are...

That’s looking great! How long did it take to build?

I found the Haynes manuals very helpful as well with previous vehicles. This time around I’ve subscribed to AllDataDIY. I believe I did the two year subscription for less money. It’s proved very useful. Although, I still miss paging through an actual manual.

Sarge Green is all you need.

That’s awesome! Good on her for making her Jeep her own. I’d be super stoked to see this coming down the street at me. My whole body would be out the window to Jeep wave! 😂

I’m using the Bilsteins and they are great in my opinion.

I’m very interested to see the vibrant Jeep in its entirety.

So good news…I spoke with Stinger tech and they explained it’s not my wiring, but a couple settings I need to change in the Heigh10.

Yup…that’ll do it. Just don’t use the cheap plastic PosiTaps, Scotch locks, etc. Over time you’ll most likely have issues.

I’ve been working on my audio and finally got my Stinger Heigh10 head unit installed (albeit a few problems such as heated seats, heated steering wheel, and blind side cameras not working). Looks great though and I’m loving the EQ settings! I’m not looking forward to removing it to diagnose my...

Blind spot cameras coupled with the Heigh10 Receiver… https://stingeroffroad.com/products/jeep-wrangler-jl-jt-blind-spot-side-view-camera-kit

Nice! Where did you get the light?

Nice! Where did you get the new decals?

And it makes sense to me to use a bit of lube on metal on metal contact (ie brake hardware) especially where it’s moving against each other. I would love to stop using that messy copper anti-seize, so I hope you (or someone else) can talk me into not using it! 😂

Thanks! I’m considering changing as well and I can keep my shop honest.

First I’ve heard of this. I’ve always used a bit of copper anti seize on the brake hardware and where the piston meets the pad backing plate. In fact, all my brakes have come with a little tube of lube to do so (I still opt for the copper stuff). Curious…if it’s not needed, then why do brake...

Including a bit of anti-seize where the piston presses against the pad backing plate.

As stated previously, a bit of lubricant on the pad hardware and guide pins should take care of the squeaking. I use 3M Copper Anti-Seize on the pad hardware and 3M Clear Silicone paste on the guide pins.

I really like the Noco Genius GenPro 10x1