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Never really messed with in my Jeep (SoCal). I get the occasional BMW riding my ass but they're equal-opportunity. When I drive my sportscar on the other hand, everyone either wants to swerve into me, brake check me, or race me. It's a weekend toy and I don't drive overly fast or aggressive...

Regardless of how it was originally installed or what the manufacturer recommends, I'm very surprised a service center wouldn't fuse the connection. It's really cheap insurance and just good practice whenever you're connecting directly to the battery. In case you ever get into a wreck you don't...

I agree, this is the right way to do it. If they didn't do this, I would hope that they at least fused the positive lead close to the battery.

When the majority is BEV they'll still make e-fuels that are 'effectively' carbon neutral for ICE vehicles. Costs around 3x to manufacture and may be more expensive due to reduced demand. It'll be pretty painful to fill up at that point but hopefully that won't be for a long time.

You should absolutely be worried about how silly this looks if you bought your Jeep to impress others. /s

If you're dead set on the Wrangler or the Bronco, I'd go with the Bronco based on you saying you won't off-road much. I daily my JLUXR. It's very comfortable and I usually drive ~67 mph. It feels less stable at this speed than my Porsche does at 90+ mph. But - apples and oranges - just...

It always amazes me which threads generate the most comments on this forum.

Agreed. Put on aftermarket lockers (which will give you much more flexibility than stock Rubicon lockers) and an Anti-Rock sway bar and you can pretty much hit anything a Rubicon can.

Or clutch for that matter in case you're resting your foot on the clutch.

From the factory, the wheels are just normal rims - not beadlocks. You have nothing to worry about. As far as trusting Discount Tires - they won't do anything to make a ring explode off the rim but they may scratch the $hit out of the 'beauty rings'.

I'm in the same stage of research as you are right now. I like the look of White Knuckle sliders but don't have any direct experience with them. I'm pretty much down to these or the LOD sliders.

I did put a wire disconnect in the rear camera wire. Also, the dash cam (and radar detector for that matter) slide off their mounts so easily removable when topless. The rear camera sticks directly to the rear glass but of course when the top comes off, the camera comes off with it.

That's the value for a Schrader valve going from 30 psi to atmosphere. If, for example, you're inflating from a 100+ psi CO2 tank to a fully-aired down tire, it will be much greater than 2.5 cfm.

I don't have an answer for you but any particular reason why you don't just remove the sensors from the old bumper? Not hard to do.

Yes, V1 is tapped into mirror and dashcam run down through A pillar on driver side, then over to passenger side under dash. I have the factory AUX switches so easy to access wires for constant and switched 12v. I ran the wire for the rear camera down the driver's side door sills.

I second the suggestion to find a take-off. I sold my plastic rear bumper (brand new) for $50 and I was happy to get that. Any decent aftermarket rear bumper will be a minimum of 60+ lbs (for steel) and $600.

By this logic, both paid for the Jeep also so it should be full price of the Jeep - not KBB or Edmunds. Point here is to try and figure out current market value, which is fair. I don't think OP was trying to put one over on anyone.

Very logical and you seem like a reasonable person. It's amazing how reason and logic go out the window in a divorce. It doesn't help when the lawyers start chiming in on "what you're entitled to". The quicker both parties realize that both sides lose and there are no winners in that game, the...

I'm guessing - going through assets and establishing values so whomever keeps a particular item has to "buy out" the other party for 1/2 the value. If OP plans on keeping the Jeep - understandably doesn't want to over-pay to be able to do so.