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  1. Who actually takes their JL offroad?

    Maiden trip in my new to me Rubicon at Dishpan Springs from a few weeks ago. Video really doesn’t do justice, but look up Dishpan Springs and you’ll see plenty that do.
  2. Warranty Work - Does anyone know what’s being replaced?

    Here’s the pigtail. No freaking idea what it is though. The splice is just a fancy butt connector.
  3. Ball joint delete

    Is that a real scenario though? I guess the better question would be has that actually happened? I can imagine that it's a theoretical possibility. It seems to me that there's not enough room in the tube for the axle to move far enough to do what you describe if a joint were to catastrophically...
  4. Silly topic: whats everyones feelings towards mixing different bumper manufacturers?

    Can’t get a good look at the front and rear at the same time anyway. Go with what you like.
  5. JKS, Rock Krawler & Metalcloak 2.5" lifts....

    Agreed. I opted for the Fox shocks. They’ve got an inch or two less extension. That’s the main reason I’m not too concerned about needing to replace the front shaft at the moment. Limiting straps will add a bit of extra insurance.
  6. JKS, Rock Krawler & Metalcloak 2.5" lifts....

    No. Nobody else advertises a need for a front driveshaft with a 2.5” lift, so I’m going to run the stock one. I’ll likely not push the lift to its full capability anyway, but I’ll probably install limiting straps for now just to be safe. I just need to figure out the proper length and get some...
  7. JKS, Rock Krawler & Metalcloak 2.5" lifts....

    I bought the Fox 2.0’s from Amazon. $576 for the set.
  8. JKS, Rock Krawler & Metalcloak 2.5" lifts....

    Just pulled the trigger on the Metalcloak True Dual 2.5” last night. It was a toss up between them, Clayton and Rock Krawler. Bang for the buck ended up making the choice for me as I couldn’t decide based upon specs and reviews. It was just too close to call. Hopefully I won’t be disappointed...
  9. Radio ?

    The dimmer switch will turn most, if not all of those lights off.
  10. Is this GMRS radio good enough?

    Look for “notarubicon” on YouTube. He’s got more info on GMRS than you’ll need. Reviews, programming, etc.
  11. P0456 won't clear! - not the gas cap

    Good to know. I just had the same code after replacing my batteries last week. My 3/36 warranty is expired as well.
  12. What are People Replacing Their Aux and Main with?

    Agree, but none of those places are So. Cal. And considering that's where we both live (presumably) and where our Jeeps spend most of their time, I stand by my statement. And I'm not saying for anyone not to try your suggestion. I've considered going with lithium as well, but the cost vs...
  13. Will they fit?

    You MIGHT squeeze in 4, but 5 probably won't work. Maybe take your spare off before you go and put one of the 5 on there when you pick them up. It'd probably be easier to load the rest with the top off as you'll have more room to maneuver.
  14. What are People Replacing Their Aux and Main with?

    I live in So Cal as well. Over 50 years. And I can say with the utmost confidence that it rarely gets below 0 (if ever). If you meant to say below freezing (32 degrees), then I agree, it can get pretty cold here during winter in the mountains and deserts. Cold for CA anyway, nothing even close...
  15. Black Friday Week, What’s On Your Wish List?

    2.5” Lift kit. Clayton & Rock Krawler are on the short list.
  16. Battery Disconnect for Winch?

    It’s a piece of cake. Disconnect your current + cable going to the winch and connect it to one side of the disconnect switch. Buy another cable the appropriate length, connect one end to the second disconnect terminal, connect the other side to your battery and you’re done.
  17. Battery Disconnect for Winch?

    Just buy any battery disconnect that matches or exceeds the amperage rating of your winch and install wherever is convenient for you. The closer you can get it to the + terminal on the battery, the less likely it is to short out on anything...

    Didn’t really mean to sound sarcastic even though I can see why you think it was. There’s a lot of people that come to this forum for advice on “how-to”. My post was intended more to keep someone from wasting money on attempting a fix that will never cure a spongy brake pedal.

    Why on earth would a former auto tech with 45 years experience think that changing pads and machining rotors would fix a spongy pedal? It’s not likely necessary, but if you can activate the ABS pump, it’s sometimes easier to get all of the air out of the system