Have had this happen twice now. Both times it fried the defroster grid.
So far we think the root cause is low seal compression at the top of the hatch causing water to leak onto the grid, which then reduces resistance and heats the grid to the point of failure and melting the wires off...
assuming they cant come up with a technical reason for the failure being linked to the mod you performed.
burden of proof is on the manufacturer to determine that your modification or failure to adhere to their recommendations is the cause for failure.
Exactly, but it can give you a good idea of when to change next time. If they say you change at 7K and they say you have 5k left, you should be safe if nothing else changes in driving habits to move to a 10k flush.
I'll do the same thing I did to my Ram 2500 when I got it last year. at 1000 miles I'll drain and switch to Amsoil with the Wix filter.
after that, i will follow the OLM until the warranty runs out using Amsoil OE grade oil. That should run me about $40 a change.
once that's done I will...
Agreed, what I'm getting at is all of the issues he had have supposedly been solved with the JL Rubi axles.
So apples to apples, the upgrades to the JL axles make it worth it over the JK, unless your plan is to go 1-tons and >37" tires.
id say the axle upgrades on the JL make this a mute point. if you have any plans of going 35's-37's which most people who modify will. The axle upgrades on the JL "should" be enough to handle this.
my buddy has a JKUR on 37's and he has had plenty of axle problems, bent tube, bent C, small...