I was concerned more with feedback on the factory light side of the circuit rather than the aux side. I know the canbus system can flake out with errant voltage so wanted to be safe before wiring in with no diode
If your going to use them independently from your factory reverse lights, just run a wire from your aux switch to the oracle lights.
If you want them to function while in reverse, wire them to your taillight or trailer harness.
If you want both aux switch function AND factory reverse...
I just had my steering box replaced and its like I own a whole new vehicle. I always felt like the steering sucked since i picked it up in 2019....but chalked it up to being on 35’s.
All i can say is wow, what a difference.
Wow. Looks like they forgot to put the lug nuts on it - correct?
The MINIMUM i would do is new factory rotor, studs, wheel and full thrust alignment.
What I would also include/ask for = tires/road hazard/alignments for life on that vehicle.
The BIGGEST QUESTION I have here is....will this happen again.
This will determine whether the batteries are just bad (one may have help caused the other to fail)....OR....there is a electrical issue (parasitic drain) somewhere in the JL
It adds lateral reinforcement so the weight that is attached to it doesn't buckle. Its a ridiculous way to spend (far too) much of your money on something that only keeps your warranty intact. Pisses me off actually but thats the silly rules of the mopar game....and Im a gamer - LOL.
Incredibly bad idea not to use reinforcement. Simple physics. JUST the standoff of the 38 compared to say a 35’ (what i have) is leveraged against that flimsy tailgate = No Bueno. I have the mopar reinforcement kit with RC relocation and still think its mickey mouse. Seriously.