Mid-June snowpack might be the only concern. We didn't have a real heavy winter, though. The only reason you'd need a winch is if you get yourself buried in a remaining snow drift.
I'm basically in Durango, PM me if you run into troubles or need help after hours for random mechanical issues...
Looks like just a split boot. To check for play grab and shake....and ideally have a helper rock the steering wheel left/right slowly as you watch and feel for play....IOW if the pitman arm starts moving a split second before the drag link, this could indicate a worn ball/socket.
I'm gonna need to install adjustable track bars f&r on one of these lifts....does anyone have center to center measurements you used?
I understand I can just play with it but a solid starting point will minimize the adjustments.
Soooo....I'm still unclear. I've got the same issue as JJSix with my MC lift: driver's coil looks great, passenger coil looks exactly like his.
Did JJSix say he was running the RK perches and I missed it?
I guess the real question is: will the RK correction perches correct the right side with...
Up to you but if you're gonna lose $1500 I'd just buy the vehicle and set $1500 aside to deal with this. That's enough to get a competent aftermarket shop to install an open carrier OR a TAD of your choice
I don't recall now which ones they direct you to remove. There's another one further up the line I cut but again Rustyshakel and others have provided better advice on how to pry it apart and remove it. Really wish I had done this, it just bugs me that it's still there and I get a weird clunking...
IIRC isn't the left side cat above the exhaust loop? This could help deter left side theft. Just thinking quick and easy and budget friendly if one doesn't want to invest in a full belly system.....
^^^I didn't watch the video above, but yeah per advice from Rustyshakel and probably others, I just shoved the parking brake cables in front of the rear xmember back there. Presumably that's also what the video shows. Works great.
^^actually I take that back just 'cause I did my own thing, posts #110 and #111 here:
I'll personally never run extended SS lines again after experiencing failures (bursts) and seeing how easily they pull apart if stretched.
OEM rubber lines are SURPRISINGLY durable.
I had no inkling of a need for any further relocation with my MC GC 2.5", but it's your money and your rig to...
I still need to do something, too.
Sean, super curious to see your finished product. Trying to understand how you're gonna make a rub rail with the inherently huge radii of a roller vs a bender. Not a criticism, just curious.