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Engine break-in plans? Who's got 'em?

How will you break-in your 3.0?


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Compression-Ignition

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What are you gonna do? With diesel pickups the school of thought I always subscribed to was to load it up and work it A.S.A.P. No babying B.S. <<< I've never heard that not work out with good results. I've also known people who didn't do anything special at all for break-in and their rigs turned out just fine.

I think I'm gonna load it up heavy and go flog on it at the ORV park. Hopefully it's still snowing! Then head to the mountains and make sure it see's some RPM's. I'll change the fluids out right after. Start this Jeep out right and let it know what we expect of it out the gate.

We ought to keep an anecdotal log here and see some apples to oranges comparisons of how everyone's diesel's are doing. Come back in 6 months and share how it went......or has gone so far anyway :like: LOL if we don't get our rigs for 6 months then make it a year :LOL:
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19JTRubiconEcoDiesel

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Drive it the way I usually drive.
 

JLURD

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https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=252501

The general principles of this post have typically informed my diesel break-in. Obviously the oil change interval and exact RPM ranges need to be adjusted to fit to this 3.0. Regardless, the objective differences in post-break-in compression pressures and fuel efficiency are more than anecdotal. It will still be interesting to see some used oil analyses on the gen3 3.0 at recommended oil change intervals.
 

JLDIESEL

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I’ll be changing my oil to full synthetic and will swap out the diff covers around 1000 miles.
 
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Compression-Ignition

Compression-Ignition

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Well we're all over the board here! Hopefully everyone sticks around or at least comes back at some point down the road to update their jeeper diesel brethren.
 

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Beestmode

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Is there any benefit to breaking it in stock for a period of time before adding 37's?
 

Gringostarr

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The first 5k miles I'll keep it totally stock while it sees normal street/highway driving without any use of cruise control. While my daily commute is only 12 miles round trip I make a 70 mile highway trip at least every two weeks, plus there will be a few 200-400 mile road trips including at least one to a decently maintained dirt road I've been driving since I turned 16.

5k - Swap out diff covers, start to use cruise control, and expand off road to very easy trails to get to dispersed camping spots.

10k - Full synthetic oil, oil pan/transmission armor, and bumper/winch setup.

15-20k - 2" Lift, swaybar disconnects, 35" tires, beadlock rims, remaining underbody armor, and only a front locker since I'm planning on getting the Willys edition and the diesel comes with a rear LSD anyway.

In keeping things mostly stock for the first 10-15k miles it means either everything will be broken in or any major issues likely to happen should do so before I make big investments. Plus those big investments cost money which gives me time to save up instead of being an idiot and go into debt for them.
 
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roll

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I’ll be changing my oil to full synthetic and will swap out the diff covers around 1000 miles.
What oil do you like? I'm kinda fond of Amsoil, but it's been a while since I've used it because the last 2 cars I've had were VW TDI and Amsoil did not have VW certification so I never switched because of warranty. I bought a 2006 TDI last year and have been using Rotella synthetic.
 
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Compression-Ignition

Compression-Ignition

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What oil do you like? I'm kinda fond of Amsoil, but it's been a while since I've used it because the last 2 cars I've had were VW TDI and Amsoil did not have VW certification so I never switched because of warranty. I bought a 2006 TDI last year and have been using Rotella synthetic.
I like AMSOIL, but if I find another respected brand on super sale I don't have much of an issue using it as long as it meets spec.
 

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mtnmerlin

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I read my diesel manual last night it says no break in needed
That is for the engine. All the other stuff (transfer case, transmission, differentials, axles, brakes, etc.) should be considered. On page 29 there are rules regarding towing during break-in.

I will err on the side of caution and do normal break-in procedures. I have a 900 mile drive home from the dealer so I don't want to just get on the interstate highway and drive fast all day (SW Texas is 80mph). I will use the frontage roads to go slower, do different RPMs, different speeds, and starts and stops for at least the first 100 miles.
 

Buttercup 3.0

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That is for the engine. All the other stuff (transfer case, transmission, differentials, axles, brakes, etc.) should be considered. On page 29 there are rules regarding towing during break-in.

I will err on the side of caution and do normal break-in procedures. I have a 900 mile drive home from the dealer so I don't want to just get on the interstate highway and drive fast all day (SW Texas is 80mph). I will use the frontage roads to go slower, do different RPMs, different speeds, and starts and stops for at least the first 100 miles.
Yeah your right about all that but I’m getting it ready for a haul of about 600 miles round trip to Hot Springs OHV park in 2 days and I’ll be pulling around 2000lbs RV so let’s hope for the best. I have to get right at it I need to know how it’s going to do for our trip to EJS pulling a trailer wheeling the snot out of it and getting us back home from nearly a 2500 mile round trip on 38s fully built
 

Buttercup 3.0

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If y’all want to follow our build/journey follow us @buttercup_ecodiesel
 

AZ-Chris

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Any further thoughts on this question? I just ordered my EcoDiesel Rubicon about a week ago and this isn't a pressing issue by any means, but I live in Arizona and will be taking delivery in Michigan . . . (my cousin is a sales manager). My rig will be getting a 3K mile road trip early in her life. I wont be towing or hitting the trails until after she's seen her home garage.
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