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OEM takeoffs to simply upgrade from Sport S stockers?

DDXDesign

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OK so I did a couple searches and went down the tire rabbit hole a bit...

But let's keep it simple: just wanted to ask, what other stock wheel and tire packages can I stick onto my JLU Sport S that:
- are a little beefier/wider track
- but don't increase the rolling diameter enough to need a recalibration
- and don't weigh a lot more than stock, because I do a bit of stop-and-go-BS driving...

Mostly it's just a look thing for me because while I do enjoy plenty of softroading and banging around, I don't get into hardcore wheeling that would require 35s or anything. And I'm considering the OEM packs because gently-used takeoffs are an economic choice for upgrades.

So should I look at Rubis, Moabs, Saharas (not wider I know, but I like the grey spoke centers on those), something else?

How much do the regular Sport black wheels weigh compared to the SS aluminums? The black ones are steel, yeah?

Thanks and apologies for the dumb question. I'm a previous wrangler owner, too, but every year it seems there are more changes and options and improvements...
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DDXDesign

DDXDesign

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blnewt

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OK, so you're saying that no other stock tire/wheel combo offered on the JLs is the same rolling diameter as the Sport S setup? Good to know, if that is what you mean.
Stock Saharas will be about 1.8% taller, won't notice it much and your shift points shouldn't be affected much at all.
Rubicons are 4% taller, so you will notice you won't hit 8th gear as often when hwy cruising and your speed will look to be 4% slower than your actual speed. Luckily the Rubicon sets are lighter than most sets that size so that's a plus.

I run heavy E-rated 295/70/17s on heavier 17x8.5 wheels so 8th gear only hits on flat hwy cruising and mpg went down about 1.5 mpg. Seems to perform well though overall. One major caveat is braking, it's affected the most by going up in tire size (and weight). My next upgrade will be better pads, and if that doesn't make much of an improvement I'll probably go w/ the bigger front brake set from a Rubi/Sahara w/ better pads.
 
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DDXDesign

DDXDesign

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Stock Saharas will be about 1.8% taller, won't notice it much and your shift points shouldn't be affected much at all.
Rubicons are 4% taller, so you will notice you won't hit 8th gear as often when hwy cruising and your speed will look to be 4% slower than your actual speed. Luckily the Rubicon sets are lighter than most sets that size so that's a plus.

I run heavy E-rated 295/70/17s on heavier 17x8.5 wheels so 8th gear only hits on flat hwy cruising and mpg went down about 1.5 mpg. Seems to perform well though overall. One major caveat is braking, it's affected the most by going up in tire size (and weight). My next upgrade will be better pads, and if that doesn't make much of an improvement I'll probably go w/ the bigger front brake set from a Rubi/Sahara w/ better pads.
Oh interesting! The Rubis look good for extra tire, but I do also like the Sahara wheels. Would 1.8% difference warrant the $$ to get recal'd?
 

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blnewt

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Oh interesting! The Rubis look good for extra tire, but I do also like the Sahara wheels. Would 1.8% difference warrant the $$ to get recal'd?
You can run them as-is and decide later, IMO it's no biggie. I didn't do any re-cal on my JL (and my 295/70s are 5% taller) and I'm fine with it, I just realize my JL is getting 5% better mileage than what the computer shows and that I'm actually going a couple mph faster on the hwy.

I've had a few quick hard stops and ABS seems to work as it should as well :)
 

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I put the Rubicon 285/70/17 KO2s on my sport. Speedometer is off about 1mph at 40mph and 2mph at 70mph.
 

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Having the speedo off isn't the worst thing since it's only 2-3mph max, however, that also means your odometer reading will be off which in my opinion is a much bigger issue. I'd suggest getting a tazer or flashcal and recalibrate yourself, plus you'll have the device to activate other features.
 

blnewt

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Having the speedo off isn't the worst thing since it's only 2-3mph max, however, that also means your odometer reading will be off which in my opinion is a much bigger issue. I'd suggest getting a tazer or flashcal and recalibrate yourself, plus you'll have the device to activate other features.
Why is having the odometer a bit off such a concern? If you keep the JL to 100k miles that's just an extra 3-4k that's not accounted for. Nothing that I would be upset over if I were to buy it used, vs pretty much anything that could be hidden when selling a used vehicle.

Or is there another reason to be concerned regarding actual miles tallied??
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