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Another: What's the best daily driver+light/moderate trail lift thread?

word302

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I’m really trying to absorb everything in all these threads. Sometime soon I need to get out on the driveway and put a name to these solid axle suspension pieces.

So far I’m looking to run a taller tire on stock Sahara wheels. I’d like to end up with a 33-34” tire to try to hold off a gear change with the 2.0. I’d rather tune it to see if that helps over 1500rpms. If not, I’ll regear.

With that in mind, I’d like to achieve full articulation without rubbing or super super minor as to not damage anything before I correct it. So I’m thinking quick end link disconnects for the sway bar. Recommendations? I saw JKS wants a tab cut off. Not sure how I feel about that.

Then that leads me to the stock painted flares. If I want the stock ride which we’re happy with, are spacers ok over springs and the unknown ride factor there? Will it ride the same if I get good shocks for the increased travel. Would Rubi shocks work or would they be too stiff for the stock Sahara springs? Or better to get aftermarket? I’d like to try to run readily available parts without a list of aftermarket parts numbers to reference over the years.

And shock relocation brackets to account for the extra travel?

Then that leads me to the stock bump stops. Do they need shortening/replacement?

Doing all that to get a 1-2” lift, again, hopefully just enough to clear 33-34” tires based on hearing 35’s would need a regear, and with a desire to try to keep center of gravity just high enough to get more diff clearance...then it seems I may...may need the Mopar lower control arms and adjustable (with low maintenance bidding preferably) track bar?

Fire away. Lol Is it a reasonable goal and does it sound like a plan? If not, please advise. Did I overlook anything? Thanks
Mostly sound logic, though shock extensions will not increase your travel.
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DadJokes

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Mostly sound logic, though shock extensions will not increase your travel.
I was thinking the relocate bracket would let the shock work in the designed range of operation?
 

DadJokes

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Greg Cobble

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Hey Greg

If you are really looking for as stock soft, run the stock springs plus spacers and the Fox 2.0 LSC. You will need the adjuster to stiffen up the stock springs for off road fun. I ran this set up and it's stock plush for sure. Their comfort springs are as close to stock springs as I have tested. I have a few JL owners drive mine with the Fox LSC and comfort springs. all have thought it was just was soft as stock. It's very very close. I have rheumatoid arthritis and my back does not like daily driving a lifted jeep. Stock, I can live with it. I have LSC so I can make super plush for street, and go up 2 3 clicks for trails. I have not tried their non adjust. ask them what setting on the LSC's they would ride like. If it's in the 1-3 range for it, no need for the LSC's. If you have back problems you may want the LSC's.

Going really crazy plush, I have stock springs plus spacers and JT Gladiator Fox shocks on right now. I have been running these for 2 weeks now, they are crazy soft. I think it would be way too soft for trails. It rides like my ford fusion on the street bumps... It's a funny feeling driving it.

JT front shock.jpg
Very helpful and informative post...and much appreciated. Thank you
Your set up looks awesome and you and I are dealing with many of the same reasons I want plush. My wife does not ride in the Jeep that often but found it less comfortable than her MB (imagine that LOL)on the slab highways found during a recent 12 hour drive to Colorado. Her back was not our friend that day. I will dig deeper on every word you said!
Thank you again!!
Greg
 

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blnewt

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Just ask @cosine he knows!
I was thinking the relocate bracket would let the shock work in the designed range of operation?
I'd consider Rubicon takeoff springs & shocks for what you're wanting to do, and if you want a bit more caster to keep the steering true then add the longer Mopar LCA. Your ride characteristics won't change much at all, at least mine didn't for our 2dr.
 

DadJokes

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Sorry, I misunderstood when you asked about relocation brackets for increased travel.
No problem. Above I said “shock relocation brackets to account for the extra travel”.
 

Uhdinator

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I did longer shocks vs, shock relocation brackets. You could go with the reloc brackets and stock length after market shocks and its and improvement. I noticed decreased body roll and less shudder in the suspension when hitting bridge seams, railroad tracks etc.. Better control for the heavier tires, but didn't feel too stiff.

The stock shocks are gas charged but very easy to compress by hand compared to the RS5000X Rancho's I put on.
Rancho is a cheap shock compared to most at around $50 each but are an improvement. The paint doesn't last long and they get rusty quick, but I shoot them with fluid film every once in awhile to reduced the corrosion.

Also of note I got the rancho part number for 2-3" lift's. I think they are too long for the 2" spacer lift.
On occasion I have hit a dip or heave in the road and think they are hitting the internal stops, so I'm thinking they are a little too long. I may have to go to brackets and stock length.

These 305/65 tires actually measure about 32." As you can see I have enough room that I could go up to 295/70 and have a 1/2 less width and still have decent clearance.
Try to find a C rated tire vice D,E rating for the best ride also.

https://www.suspensionconnection.co...MImYnM59aP5gIVSz0MCh0SuwOuEAQYASABEgK6Z_D_BwE

You don't need the shock sleeves provided with this kit for the shocks I used.
The kit levels out the front end also. Adding a winch or heavy bumper this might be good as either will lower the front end a bit.

IMG_4860.JPG


Tumbledown4.JPG
 
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Uhdinator

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No problem. Above I said “shock relocation brackets to account for the extra travel”.
A more accurate description is the relocation bracket maintains the same extension range. Without them your shock would be extended 2" with a 2" spacer. So your suspension droop would be limited 2" shorter and you have 2" increased upward travel before hitting the internal stops. This is not good as you can compress the springs 2" more than without the spacers. Thats why some kits come with extended bump stops.
 

jmcdtucson

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Here's your exact vehicle with Rubicon shocks and springs plus a 3/4" Daystar spacer lift and Mopar Lift LCAs (lower control arms).
Tires are 33" KO2s off a stock Rubicon.
Rides great. Total cost $200 + $500 for the wheels and tires. Install is DIY but cost with alignment would be about $500.

after.jpg
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