Tazer (Programmer) for the JL

[Rudolph Hart]

I'm sorry.
To install the Tazer mini, you have to disconnect two cables (not really easy to access) on an original Jeep box (under the dashboard) and connect them (two cables) to the Tazer mini, so it's not the OBDII?

No problem, you’re English is very good.

The original Tazer JL connects to the OBD2 port but the mini is connected to the 2 cables you describe which are unplugged first from the SGW (security gateway module) this leaves the OBD2 port free to access

Sponsored

 

[SwissSteph]

No problem, you’re English is very good.

The original Tazer JL connects to the OBD2 port but the mini is connected to the 2 cables you describe which are unplugged first from the SGW (security gateway module) this leaves the OBD2 port free to access

Thank you for your answer, it's great news. I thought I understood that these two cables were precisely those of the OBDII.

If I understand correctly, it is therefore useless unmarry, remove and reconnect these two cables on the original box for a simple visit to the dealer

thank you !
Steph

 

[Jmonroe]

My problem is the difficulty in removing/replacing the OEM wire harness connectors. Getting them unplugged was by far the most difficult part of the Tazer install for me. My fingers are too short and fat to get up into that confined area, not to mention you have to be a contortionist to be able to see what you're doing. I do not want to have to try to get them plugged back in and then unplugged again.

I passed a suggestion on to zautomotive, didn't get a response. Make an "extension cord" that could be plugged into those now abandoned ports and just let it hang down (more likely just tied up somewhere I could get to it) making it easy to swap back & forth.

 

[SwissSteph]

My problem is the difficulty in removing/replacing the OEM wire harness connectors. Getting them unplugged was by far the most difficult part of the Tazer install for me. My fingers are too short and fat to get up into that confined area, not to mention you have to be a contortionist to be able to see what you're doing. I do not want to have to try to get them plugged back in and then unplugged again.

I passed a suggestion on to zautomotive, didn't get a response. Make an "extension cord" that could be plugged into those now abandoned ports and just let it hang down (more likely just tied up somewhere I could get to it) making it easy to swap back & forth.

I agree with you

 

[Rudolph Hart]

Thank you for your answer, it's great news. I thought I understood that these two cables were precisely those of the OBDII.

If I understand correctly, it is therefore useless unmarry, remove and reconnect these two cables on the original box for a simple visit to the dealer

thank you !
Steph

Yes, that’s how I see it. As I said above the dealership has made no comment about mine during 3 visits.

 

[Rudolph Hart]

My problem is the difficulty in removing/replacing the OEM wire harness connectors. Getting them unplugged was by far the most difficult part of the Tazer install for me. My fingers are too short and fat to get up into that confined area, not to mention you have to be a contortionist to be able to see what you're doing. I do not want to have to try to get them plugged back in and then unplugged again.

I passed a suggestion on to zautomotive, didn't get a response. Make an "extension cord" that could be plugged into those now abandoned ports and just let it hang down (more likely just tied up somewhere I could get to it) making it easy to swap back & forth.

I agree with you

To disconnect the wires I used a head torch and a flat headed screwdriver to unclip the connections, then a gentle tug on the wires pulled them free.

 

[MacJack]

My problem is the difficulty in removing/replacing the OEM wire harness connectors. Getting them unplugged was by far the most difficult part of the Tazer install for me. My fingers are too short and fat to get up into that confined area, not to mention you have to be a contortionist to be able to see what you're doing. I do not want to have to try to get them plugged back in and then unplugged again.

I passed a suggestion on to zautomotive, didn't get a response. Make an "extension cord" that could be plugged into those now abandoned ports and just let it hang down (more likely just tied up somewhere I could get to it) making it easy to swap back & forth.

So I have fat, short fingers... as well. I pull the panel under the steering wheel straight to the driver seat. Now it is much easier to have access. As I was ready to get the OBDII but glad I have the mini since only have to touch it 1 or 2 times a year.

I do not have a good dealer relationship as he killed for me and my insurance company had to go after them for damage to front seat....

Edit: Once I got the two plugs out I worked on the clips to make it to unclip easier. I don't need a light to find them... Hand/fingers go right to them.

 

[Jmonroe]

So I have fat, short fingers... as well. I pull the panel under the steering wheel straight to the driver seat. Now it is much easier to have access. ..

There's no way you'd get to it without pulling that panel, I just assumed that was a given.

 

[MacJack]

There's no way you'd get to it without pulling that panel, I just assumed that was a given.

You are right. The first few times I did remove the two plugs was without the panel removal and it was a pain... It was a few post back who suggesting panel removal which is night to day easy access.

 

[NCIC105]

My problem is the difficulty in removing/replacing the OEM wire harness connectors. Getting them unplugged was by far the most difficult part of the Tazer install for me. My fingers are too short and fat to get up into that confined area, not to mention you have to be a contortionist to be able to see what you're doing. I do not want to have to try to get them plugged back in and then unplugged again.

I passed a suggestion on to zautomotive, didn't get a response. Make an "extension cord" that could be plugged into those now abandoned ports and just let it hang down (more likely just tied up somewhere I could get to it) making it easy to swap back & forth.

I used a long set of forceps to press remove the plugs and reinstall them when I went to dealer....Bought them at Harbor Freight. I bought the one with the curved end, 10 inch

 

[MacJack]

I used a long set of forceps to press remove the plugs and reinstall them when I went to dealer....Bought them at Harbor Freight. I bought the one with the curved end, 10 inch

Thanks for the tip.... did you still remove panel under steering wheel and are these the forceps..... https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-locking-clamp-94952.html

 

[NCIC105]

Thanks for the tip.... did you still remove panel under steering wheel and are these the forceps..... https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-locking-clamp-94952.html

I did the first time. But not now

 

[NickM]

Shout out to Z Automotive and the Tazer Mini JL. I purchased it primarily to adjust tire pressure warnings lower as I like to run 32 psi but on cold mornings the pressure would trip the low tire pressure warning.

Secondary to this was to begin upgrading lighting on my Sport S. Currently running Oracle Switchbacks for turn signal and marker lights. The Tazer allowed me to enable the fog lights as DRL’s and will be switching the bulbs to led soon.

Over time I’m sure to find more uses for the Tazer Mini JL.

 

[SilverRubi]

I have a couple questions on the Tazer Mini. I installed mine yesterday and was playing around with the TPMS levels. Is 25 psi the lowest it will let you go? I could not get it to go any lower.

The other question is on the offroad page. Under swaybar is the default no? Will switching it to yes allow for the swaybar to be disconnected at any speed or should I leave it on no? I have a Rubicon and I still want to use the factory disconnect.

 

[joe@zauto]

I have a couple questions on the Tazer Mini. I installed mine yesterday and was playing around with the TPMS levels. Is 25 psi the lowest it will let you go? I could not get it to go any lower.

The other question is on the offroad page. Under swaybar is the default no? Will switching it to yes allow for the swaybar to be disconnected at any speed or should I leave it on no? I have a Rubicon and I still want to use the factory disconnect.

low limit is 25psi; that’s a hardware limit of the system itself.

rubicon sway bar should be set to Yes.
Use the sway bar button to unlock in any transfer case position (up to 35mph)
Or use button remap feature to set a button mapped to “swaykill” to unlock to any speed in any position.

Sponsored