Quality lift recommendation????

[swimman]

I'm looking to add a lift next Spring and want something of quality. Will probably buy during Black Friday sales. Most likely between 2.5-3.5". As of now not doing any hard core crawling but want to be prepared for the future. I usually buy more than I need - just in case! I have a '19 JLUR with 35s but may upgrade to 37s down the road. Immediate need is to add some height to clear obstacles I'm currently bottoming out on but want a decent daily driver. I'll do the install myself and am looking to spend $5k or less on the components. Any recommendations? I have a few in mind but need to do more research.

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[vavaroutsos]

I'm looking to add a lift next Spring and want something of quality. Will probably buy during Black Friday sales. Most likely between 2.5-3.5". As of now not doing any hard core crawling but want to be prepared for the future. I usually buy more than I need - just in case! I have a '19 JLUR with 35s but may upgrade to 37s down the road. Immediate need is to add some height to clear obstacles I'm currently bottoming out on but want a decent daily driver. I'll do the install myself and am looking to spend $5k or less on the components. Any recommendations? I have a few in mind but need to do more research.

Clayton has their premium lift and overland lift in 2.5" and 3.5". The only difference is the joints on the control arms. The premium lift uses Johnny joints. Their control arms have proper geometry and are strong enough that they have a lifetime warranty. I have looked into their spring rates and lengths, and they seem pretty good. They also have cheaper entry level lifts using the same components. The entry level lifts don't replace all of the factory control arms. You can buy the control arms individually and replace the factory ones later if you start with an entry level lift.

 

[Roky]

Rock Krawler.........

 

[Loki Kai]

I know there will be some that will not speak highly of the Mopar Lift but here is a write up of what I installed in my garage with NO help. I am currently on 35x12.50r20's but will be bolting on 37x13.50r17's this week. Ride is great, NO excessive spring BOW and the RK rear spring pads worked really good since I am going to be carrying some extra weight in the back. The lift added just a hair over 3" of true lift over stock (not counting tires). Good Luck!

Starting with the MOPAR lift here is a list of components from various sources/vendors along with actual costs (including tax and shipping when applicable). I did my own installation since this is a pretty straight forward "bolt on" project. My plan was to start with the Mopar 2 inch kit and upgrade or add components that I feel "fix" the areas that Mopar didn't get quite right. Of course this is only MY idea of what will work best based on past experience and a LOT of research on the Mopar kit. Besides the crate is really COOL

• Mopar JLU 3.6L 2" Lift Kit Part #77072395AC "Baseline kit for the project" Comes in a COOL crate! Sourced on EBAY from seller (everydodgepart) Cost $1,099
• Fox Factory Race Series 2.0 Performance ATS Steering Stabilizer part #983-02-148. Overkill but sourced on EBAY as NEW unused item out of box from individual for a GREAT price. Cost $265
• Rock Krawler Front Spring Correction Pad Kit Part #RK06705K. Replacement for Mopar Pads that still seem to be poor quality even in the AC kit. Sourced from River City Offroad Cost $28.50 with JLWF Discount
• Rock Krawler Rear Spring Correction Pad Kit Part #06840 Replacements for Mopar pads. Not sure if they are needed but good insurance IMO. Sourced from River City Offroad Cost $16.15 with JLWF Discount
• Rock Krawler JL Front Adjustable Track Bar Part #RK06187. Replace stock non-adjustable to correctly center axle. Sourced from River City Offroad Cost $182.75 with JLWF Discount
• Rock Krawler JL Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket Part #RK06718K. To correct rear geometry for better highway handling and overall performance. Note: I may go with the Rock Krawler rear adjustable Track Bar at a later time "if" I am not happy with the stock bar ride quality. Sourced from River City Offroad Cost $84.14 with JLWF Discount

The total investment for this suspension build was around $1,675 with the upgrade stabilizer. It could be done for $1,410 without. Not bad for starting with the Mopar Kit which gives you Fox Shocks and did I mention a COOL crate By adding the few upgrades this ends up being a good affordable lift. I would gladly HELP someone install in a day taking our time, ANALYSIS PARALYSIS and BEER. A shop should be able to do it in 4 or five hours if they do it right.


My Rubicon already sits on 35" Toyo Open Country RTs and Moto Metal 20" wheels for daily driving. Depending on ride quality and stance after install, I may go up to 37's. I will also likely go with a 17" off road wheel set up for the rough stuff.

Thanks to Rock Krawler for helping with my tech questions, the numerous threads here on JLWF, and River City Offroad for the AWESOME JLWF Discount!

 

[word302]

Rock Krawler or Metalcloak.

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

Interesting in the difference from your left and right caster. I'd still target 6 degrees of caster. I just added about .75 to mine to take it to about 6, and it made quite a noticeable difference in tracking. It was acceptable before, but even better now.

Note that the spec is based on stock sized tires, not 37s.

Finishing my Mopar lift install. I just returned from the alignment shop with this report on caster from my Mopar lift with supplied LCA...

Caster is well within spec and no action needed as far as another set of adjustable LCA. Toe is out that's on me with added HD Synergy tire rod. So, no spring bow, no offset of front or rear axles. Hiwy ride and steering are as good as stock rubicon IMO. thanks Mopar and Cortland on Ebay. $1,099 has totally worked well for me. I am recommending this lift even with out seat of the pants off road time.

 

[word302]

Interesting in the difference from your left and right caster. I'd still target 6 degrees of caster. I just added about .75 to mine to take it to about 6, and it made quite a noticeable difference in tracking. It was acceptable before, but even better now.

Note that the spec is based on stock sized tires, not 37s.

it's actually pretty common for lift manufactures to suggest slightly more caster on the passenger side (.2 to .4 degrees is what Rock Krawler recommends) to account for road crown, so not uncommon to see a split. Unfortunately the opposite of what this guy ended up with.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Rock Krawler or Metalcloak.

My suggestions as well. $2400ish for a 2.5” rock sport game changer and put the rest towards other mods like a quality steering stabilizer.

Brett

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

it's actually pretty common for lift manufactures to suggest slightly more caster on the passenger side (.2 to .4 degrees is what Rock Krawler recommends) to account for road crown, so not uncommon to see a split. Unfortunately the opposite of what this guy ended up with.

So exactly how do you set the caster separately/differently on a straight axle vehicle? (Except wonky ball joints)

 

[word302]

So exactly how do you set the caster separately/differently on a straight axle vehicle? (Except wonky ball joints)

With adjustable control arms. If you're thinking of camber, yeah that's not really adjustable without wonky ball joints.

 

[word302]

Cut/grind loose the knuckle to axle tube welds, rotate knuckle to new caster angle and re-weld is the only way I’ve seen it done. Common method for junk yard axle swaps back in the day.

Huh? This is what adjustable control arms are for.

 

[Sheepjeep]

X2 for Clayton, have being driving a year now and 15k miles with plenty of wheeling trips on their 2.5" overland kit, no issues rides great no death wabble

 

[AllJumpStyle]

How does tire height and caster correlate ? Asking because I haven’t seen that discussed. Larger tire, more caster ?

It's not caster, but trail that changes with tire size. They are interconnected and a bit complex, but both have an effect on steering. A lot of times you need less caster with larger tires because you don't want so much trail.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle

 

[vavaroutsos]

With adjustable control arms. If you're thinking of camber, yeah that's not really adjustable without wonky ball joints.

Wranglers have a solid front axle. You can't adjust caster on each side independently, even with adjustable control arms, without torquing the axle housing and control arm bushings.

 

[word302]

Wranglers have a solid front axle. You can't adjust caster on each side independently, even with adjustable control arms, without torquing the axle housing and control arm bushings.

Lol. We're talking about less than half a degree.

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