Best steering stabilizers so far?

[cosmokenney]

I wonder if going to polyurethane busing on the stock track bar and (are there any) on the LCAs would help?

Sponsored

 

[greenerobnmu]

Good drag link + good tie rod + good caster = throw your “stabilizer” in the trash and actually impress your friends.

Surprised it only took 13 posts for this cool guy answer to come up.

 

[word302]

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jk-dualsport-sc-suspension/
Above is a link to the aev jk suspension page. Scroll to the bottom and read the faq sections. Read through all of them and they can help gain a greater understanding of how suspensions and steering work together. I don’t think aev is a be all end all solution to every build but aev did yank a bunch of Jeep engineers and the guy from nth degree to build the jk platforms. Those are the guys that designed the suspensions and that’s why they worked so well. The jk and jl platforms share a lot of undercarriage dna so drawing conclusions from one to another is pretty straightforward so as you look at options keep in mind that the jl platform is young enough that the company with the most renowned suspension engineers on staff has yet to even release a budget boost.

Lol. AEV is overpriced and over-hyped. If the Jeep engineers were so renowned we all wouldn't be in such a hurry to replace our suspension.

 

[D60]

Increasingly I'm thinking I'll eventually go hydro assist and honestly think I should probably bank that $350 for a cool guy adjustable stabilizer into the Redneck Ram fund.....

edit: point being you might want to look at your not-so-long-term goals before you're sitting on a fairly new $350 stabilizer you're no longer using. Sure, you can re-sell it for probably $250 plus your time if it's in good shape

 

[word302]

Increasingly I'm thinking I'll eventually go hydro assist and honestly think I should probably bank that $350 for a cool guy adjustable stabilizer into the Redneck Ram fund.....

I'm thinking the same but I'm gonna wait and see what happens with this junk steering box before I port it.

 

[D60]

I will say SS has their own stabilizer at ~$90 and I just like that they're specific about it being neutral, ie not charged so as to cause a pull.

I'm considering trying this until I eventually go hydro assist. I'm just not convinced a stabilizer should cost hundreds of dollars and I'd be REALLY curious to know Teraflex's or Fox's profit margins on these high dollar units.

 

[D60]

I'm thinking the same but I'm gonna wait and see what happens with this junk steering box before I port it.

Shit have you watched the LiteBrite video when they have theirs installed? I always ASSumed porting was done with some manner of precision but it's literally Uncle Bob with a shitty cordless drill and a hand tap....add to that he taps it with a socket on a ratchet, something I try to never do as a machinist because it's really easy to run a tap in crooked with the off-axis force of a rachet (vs a true tap wrench).

I mean I guess if the box casting is Al it don't put up much a fight and experience counts for a lot but still --- a highly specialized precision operation this is not LMAO

I'm less worried about the box but unclear on the pump not keeping up in "drifting" ops, and would like to see someone bring a software update to boost pump output at higher rpm's (which apparently should be possible)

 

[Arterius2]

I will say SS has their own stabilizer at ~$90 and I just like that they're specific about it being neutral, ie not charged so as to cause a pull.

I'm considering trying this until I eventually go hydro assist. I'm just not convinced a stabilizer should cost hundreds of dollars and I'd be REALLY curious to know Teraflex's or Fox's profit margins on these high dollar units.

Well, a stabilizer is basically just a shock, in fox's case, a quality adjustable shock with reservoir costing around $350 each, sounds like a fair price to me.

 

[D60]

Well, a stabilizer is basically just a shock, a quality adjustable shock with reservoir costing around $350 each, sounds like a fair price to me.

It's only money honey!!

 

[word302]

I will say SS has their own stabilizer at ~$90 and I just like that they're specific about it being neutral, ie not charged so as to cause a pull.

I'm considering trying this until I eventually go hydro assist. I'm just not convinced a stabilizer should cost hundreds of dollars and I'd be REALLY curious to know Teraflex's or Fox's profit margins on these high dollar units.

That's why I prefer the fox ATS as it can sit neutral anywhere in its stroke. But they are awful proud of it.

 

[word302]

Shit have you watched the LiteBrite video when they have theirs installed? I always ASSumed porting was done with some manner of precision but it's literally Uncle Bob with a shitty cordless drill and a hand tap....add to that he taps it with a socket on a ratchet, something I try to never do as a machinist because it's really easy to run a tap in crooked with the off-axis force of a rachet (vs a true tap wrench).

I mean I guess if the box casting is Al it don't put up much a fight and experience counts for a lot but still --- a highly specialized precision operation this is not LMAO

I'm less worried about the box but unclear on the pump not keeping up in "drifting" ops, and would like to see someone bring a software update to boost pump output at higher rpm's (which apparently should be possible)

Lol. I was thinking the same thing. I guess that's why they call it the redneck ram. Heavy on the redneck.

 

[STLYoungblood]

If your gonna go off road you need to get one you can relocate. That means the Falcons are a no go for me until they can be relocated and even then I wouldn't spend more than $200 including relocation bracket.

I'm not all that off road experienced yet. Can you expand on this?

 

[gpurp]

The stock mounts put the stabilizer lower than it should be. Take a look and you'll see that it's at the same level as your tie rod. I have the Metal Cloak relocation bracket that bolts to the axle trackbar mount. My stabilizer now sits above the tie rod where it's less likely to be damaged.

 

[STLYoungblood]

The stock mounts put the stabilizer lower than it should be. Take a look and you'll see that it's at the same level as your tie rod. I have the Metal Cloak relocation bracket that bolts to the axle trackbar mount. My stabilizer now sits above the tie rod where it's less likely to be damaged.

Thanks. That being said, if we're at the same height as tie rod, which feels pretty low anyway, the stabilizer may be more likely to be damaged than if relocated, but if you were damaging the stabilizer, even if it wasn't there, you'd be hitting your tie rod, right? Am I missing something, or is it more about mitigating as much damage as possible?

 

[gpurp]

There's a lot of linkage under the front end no doubt that can snag on obstructions. I'd say the best way to mitigate damage is increasing the tire size for added height, Installing skid plates, and not going too fast. There's a lot of emphasis in the forums on rock crawling but in my neck of the woods I'm much more likely to hit a tree stump hidden by tall grass. So back to the stabilizer... Being that's it a mostly hollow thin walled metal tube I say moving it up lessens the likelihood of damage. This pic is from the passenger side.

Sponsored