AEV ProCal SNAP

[JLRubiMD]

I swapped out my JLUR wheels and tires for AEV Borah wheels (JL specific series) and 37x12.5x17 KO2s, after looking into various reprogramming options I settled on AEVs newest programmer, the ProCal SNAP. Following installation, the small SNAP module is plugged into the OBDII port and the user pairs it with their Jeep, then after a wheel swap or axle/transfer case regear, the user reprograms the Jeep using the factory radio.

Note: the SNAP unit can only be paired to 1 Jeep, and I think for most of us that's perfectly fine. I needed a solution to allow me to reprogram for my current wheels, and my future 4.88 regear. For $125, I have the solution for both and I can use it on my same Jeep for any future changes I make.

The Install:
Overall, very easy and clear. First a "harness" is installed, which is a single cable with 2 terminals on one end that plug into the back of the OBDII port, then other end of the cable gets routed under the dash to the green star connector hiding behind the glovebox. Install basically done. Pairing the SNAP is literally 2 steps: (1) plug it in and (2) hold the brake and cruise control until paired.

A few notes from my experience with the install. I had to experiment with getting into a few awkward positions while working under my dash to get the 2 terminal into the OBDII due to little slack in the wire leading to the OBDII. There a wire holding clip I could have removed to give myself more slack while working with the OBDII, but I was confident I could get the terminal pressed in without removing it. Pay attention to where the 2 terminal go, it's very clearly labeled in the instructions. The terminals are labeled with a "1" and a "9", and get pressed into the 1 and 9 position. The directions state the slots are numbered with tiny numbers, I never found these. Instead, looking at the picture in the directions, there is a little tab in the middle on the side with the 9 slot. This will all make perfect sense when you look at their directions and the back of the OBDII. If for some reason you end up in the wrong slot, no biggie. Use a small screwdriver or pick to press into the hole next to where the terminal was incorrectly inserted to release it.

Reprogramming:
Once installed, the SNAP reprograms the computer using the factory radio. Simply go into the EQ setting and set the EQ to the new tire or gear size. For example, doing 4.88 gears? Set the Bass to 4, Mid to 8, Treble to 8. Hold the brake and "RES" (resume) button on the cruise control and everything is reprogrammed for 4.88s. If you want to instead program for tire size, hold the brake and press the "set +" on the cruise control. Overall super easy.

With the help of Jordan at AEV (SNAP engineer, was very helpful), we were able to troubleshoot one small hiccup. When my iPhone was plugged into the USB port in the center console, I was unable to adjust my EQ settings. So when doing programming, if you have this same issue try doing it without anything plugged into the USB. I've heard the Jeep radios can be buggy, maybe this is one of those circumstances. Either way, it was an easy fix.

Following programming, you can verify the tire size and gear ratio in the instrument cluster display by turning off the radio and using the steering wheel to navigate to the "audio" tab. The SNAP is still plugged in while your're doing this. Once everything looks good, you can either leave it plugged in (it's tiny, you'd never know it's there) or unplug it and store it i the glove box.

Overall:
I took it for a test drive after putting the 37s on and entering the measured tire height (spoiler... many 37s won't measure 37") using the SNAP, my speedometer is dead on verified with a GPS app. My overall impression is great so far. It was easy to install and use. I consider $125 a great price to have something I can now use several times with my Jeep, anytime I need it. Like everything else they do, AEV seems to have put the time/effort into this to make it a great product, and they were very responsive when I had the issue with the iPhone being plugged in, overall great customer service. I'll try to remember to post a follow up in a month and again after I do the 4.88 regear.

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[Trav.city]

I swapped out my JLUR wheels and tires for AEV Borah wheels (JL specific series) and 37x12.5x17 KO2s, after looking into various reprogramming options I settled on AEVs newest programmer, the ProCal SNAP. Following installation, the small SNAP module is plugged into the OBDII port and the user pairs it with their Jeep, then after a wheel swap or axle/transfer case regear, the user reprograms the Jeep using the factory radio.

Thanks for sharing. I wonder when they introduce this? I go to their website about every week looking for their rear tire carrier and have never seen this. Now I find it under electronics. Of course I just bought the Tazer JL which works fine and can do a lot more but I would have liked to research the AEV product first.

 

[Hayseed_JLUR]

And the nice thing is that they include with their lift kits.

 

[DanW]

Do you need to take it out and disconnect any cables, so that they don't use it as an excuse to void the warranty, or can you just unplug it? I'm referring to the Tazer, which is great, but you have to unmarry and unplug the bypass, which is a little bit of a pain.

 

[Montana]

Unplugging it should be enough. It should be fine if you leave it in, but the Snap wasn't designed to be leave in module so we recommend you remove it after use. The extra OBDII pins are fine to be left in as they do not require the SGW to be bypassed.

 

[JLRubiMD]

Thanks for sharing. I wonder when they introduce this? I go to their website about every week looking for their rear tire carrier and have never seen this. Now I find it under electronics. Of course I just bought the Tazer JL which works fine and can do a lot more but I would have liked to research the AEV product first.

Just an FYI on their rear tire carrier because I've been looking for the same. I called and asked about a frame mounted one like they have for the JK, was told tentatively this coming winter. Fingers crossed because my tailgate is not liking the 37" tire, the Mopar bracket really doesn't seem to do much...

 

[Trav.city]

Just an FYI on their rear tire carrier because I've been looking for the same. I called and asked about a frame mounted one like they have for the JK, was told tentatively this coming winter. Fingers crossed because my tailgate is not liking the 37" tire, the Mopar bracket really doesn't seem to do much...

Thanks, I actually live 20 minutes from them and just picked up the AEV Borah wheels. When I was there they said the design was just approved so they should be coming soon.

 

[JLRubiMD]

Thanks, I actually live 20 minutes from them and just picked up the AEV Borah wheels. When I was there they said the design was just approved so they should be coming soon.

The backspacing on their new Borah wheels is just damn perfect for the JLUR. Like PERFECT. You'll love them. I'll keep asking them about the carrier then, the sooner the better!

 

[Trav.city]

The backspacing on their new Borah wheels is just damn perfect for the JLUR. Like PERFECT. You'll love them. I'll keep asking them about the carrier then, the sooner the better!

I can’t agree more. I had some other wheels that were +6 offset and thought they still stuck out to much. The Borah brought them in about an inch on both sides. I love it.

 

[ExitLeft]

I just wish the AEV ProCal Snap adjusted the TPMS. Then it'd be absolutely perfect

 

[flyingmonkey]

Thanks for posting this.
Is there any reason to remove the brackets on the center console and run it under the dash? The wires that I got seem long enough that I wouldn’t have to.
Also, assuming that your picture of the module is right side up, mine is the other way and only inserts upside down. Strange...

 

[DesertRat]

I swapped out my JLUR wheels and tires for AEV Borah wheels (JL specific series) and 37x12.5x17 KO2s, after looking into various reprogramming options I settled on AEVs newest programmer, the ProCal SNAP. Following installation, the small SNAP module is plugged into the OBDII port and the user pairs it with their Jeep, then after a wheel swap or axle/transfer case regear, the user reprograms the Jeep using the factory radio.

Note: the SNAP unit can only be paired to 1 Jeep, and I think for most of us that's perfectly fine. I needed a solution to allow me to reprogram for my current wheels, and my future 4.88 regear. For $125, I have the solution for both and I can use it on my same Jeep for any future changes I make.

The Install:
Overall, very easy and clear. First a "harness" is installed, which is a single cable with 2 terminals on one end that plug into the back of the OBDII port, then other end of the cable gets routed under the dash to the green star connector hiding behind the glovebox. Install basically done. Pairing the SNAP is literally 2 steps: (1) plug it in and (2) hold the brake and cruise control until paired.

A few notes from my experience with the install. I had to experiment with getting into a few awkward positions while working under my dash to get the 2 terminal into the OBDII due to little slack in the wire leading to the OBDII. There a wire holding clip I could have removed to give myself more slack while working with the OBDII, but I was confident I could get the terminal pressed in without removing it. Pay attention to where the 2 terminal go, it's very clearly labeled in the instructions. The terminals are labeled with a "1" and a "9", and get pressed into the 1 and 9 position. The directions state the slots are numbered with tiny numbers, I never found these. Instead, looking at the picture in the directions, there is a little tab in the middle on the side with the 9 slot. This will all make perfect sense when you look at their directions and the back of the OBDII. If for some reason you end up in the wrong slot, no biggie. Use a small screwdriver or pick to press into the hole next to where the terminal was incorrectly inserted to release it.

Reprogramming:
Once installed, the SNAP reprograms the computer using the factory radio. Simply go into the EQ setting and set the EQ to the new tire or gear size. For example, doing 4.88 gears? Set the Bass to 4, Mid to 8, Treble to 8. Hold the brake and "RES" (resume) button on the cruise control and everything is reprogrammed for 4.88s. If you want to instead program for tire size, hold the brake and press the "set +" on the cruise control. Overall super easy.

With the help of Jordan at AEV (SNAP engineer, was very helpful), we were able to troubleshoot one small hiccup. When my iPhone was plugged into the USB port in the center console, I was unable to adjust my EQ settings. So when doing programming, if you have this same issue try doing it without anything plugged into the USB. I've heard the Jeep radios can be buggy, maybe this is one of those circumstances. Either way, it was an easy fix.

Following programming, you can verify the tire size and gear ratio in the instrument cluster display by turning off the radio and using the steering wheel to navigate to the "audio" tab. The SNAP is still plugged in while your're doing this. Once everything looks good, you can either leave it plugged in (it's tiny, you'd never know it's there) or unplug it and store it i the glove box.

Overall:
I took it for a test drive after putting the 37s on and entering the measured tire height (spoiler... many 37s won't measure 37") using the SNAP, my speedometer is dead on verified with a GPS app. My overall impression is great so far. It was easy to install and use. I consider $125 a great price to have something I can now use several times with my Jeep, anytime I need it. Like everything else they do, AEV seems to have put the time/effort into this to make it a great product, and they were very responsive when I had the issue with the iPhone being plugged in, overall great customer service. I'll try to remember to post a follow up in a month and again after I do the 4.88 regear.

Awesome write up. I would like add a couple things.

1. In regards to the connector clip, it is MUCH easier to simply loosen the screw with an 8mm socket until it is almost out. The clip will then rotate completely out of the way. Rotate the connector under to expose the back, just like the picture in the directions. Push wires in correct hole, etc.

2. You DO NOT have to unbolt the brackets on each side of the console. Simply pull the carpet back, and push a fish cable from one side to another, tape the appropriate cable end and pull back. I pulled from driver to passenger.

3. You should be able to run the wire along a couple of major wire harnesses. I taped mine is a several places so it is clean and secure.



To AEV: You are making this too hard. How about you create a male-female connector with the junction box wire connected. Then all we have to do is take out glove box door, connect to junction box and finally connect M/F connector to OBDII. 1 minute job. It is not as if it has to stay in. My 2 cents.




Ron

 

[Clrprop]

how did you guys open the obd port? I cant for the life of me figure out how to open it to slide the "1" and "9" pins in all the way.

 

[SpookyXJ]

how did you guys open the obd port? I cant for the life of me figure out how to open it to slide the "1" and "9" pins in all the way.

You don't open it the pins push in from the back. Push until you feel and hear a slight click. The u shape of the pin only fits one way. Make sure you have the right numbered slot as they are a bitch to get back apart once clicked in.

 

[DesertRat]

You don't open it the pins push in from the back. Push until you feel and hear a slight click. The u shape of the pin only fits one way. Make sure you have the right numbered slot as they are a bitch to get back apart once clicked in.

Agreed. Check and double check before pushing in.

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