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Rubicon axle swap?

Dunigan88

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I have a 2018 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited (JL) with the D30/D35 front/rear axles I want to swap the stock axles for Rubicon D44 axles with E-Lockers. The Rubicon D44 on the JL is about 1.5" wider than the axles on my Sahara. Will the axles still bolt on directly without any fabrication?

Any help is much appreciated Thanks in advance!
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EngenZerO

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I want to upgrade my front axel eventually and am curious to see a d44, ultimate Dana 44, or etc with elockers would work. I have a Moab with the LSD d44 in rear already. Also have select trac.
 

freddiegs

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I have a 2018 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited (JL) with the D30/D35 front/rear axles I want to swap the stock axles for Rubicon D44 axles with E-Lockers. The Rubicon D44 on the JL is about 1.5" wider than the axles on my Sahara. Will the axles still bolt on directly without any fabrication?

Any help is much appreciated Thanks in advance!
Yes they will bolt straight in. You will need a Rubicon tie rod or aftermarket one
 

ChattVol

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I have a 2018 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited (JL) with the D30/D35 front/rear axles I want to swap the stock axles for Rubicon D44 axles with E-Lockers. The Rubicon D44 on the JL is about 1.5" wider than the axles on my Sahara. Will the axles still bolt on directly without any fabrication?

Any help is much appreciated Thanks in advance!
Been down this path back in December...this may be helpful
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/billet-stallion-sport-s-full-d44-swap.19973/
 

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ChattVol

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I want to upgrade my front axel eventually and am curious to see a d44, ultimate Dana 44, or etc with elockers would work. I have a Moab with the LSD d44 in rear already. Also have select trac.
Your axles are narrower than the d44 rubi axles...see the link above
 

freddiegs

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Your axles are narrower than the d44 rubi axles...see the link above
Dynatrack offers a Prorock version in narrow width. Depending on what gear size (money factor) hes trying to go to i would still just go with a used set of Rubi axels.
 

ChattVol

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Dynatrack offers a Prorock version in narrow width. Depending on what gear size (money factor) hes trying to go to i would still just go with a used set of Rubi axels.
Yeah...the added width is nice and its about the same price to buy takeoff rubi axles and you get 2 wider axles with lockers, 4.10 gearing and most include the rubi brakes. Better bang for the buck
 

EngenZerO

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Dynatrack offers a Prorock version in narrow width. Depending on what gear size (money factor) hes trying to go to i would still just go with a used set of Rubi axels.
Yeah...the added width is nice and its about the same price to buy takeoff rubi axles and you get 2 wider axles with lockers, 4.10 gearing and most include the rubi brakes. Better bang for the buck
Thanks for the info guys! Looks like the narrower Prorock is on the list for a future upgrade.
 

Jeepjunkie

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Thanks for the info guys! Looks like the narrower Prorock is on the list for a future upgrade.
I just installed a PR44 in my JL. Feel free to ask questions of it can be helpful. I’m glad I did it and would absolutely do it over, but I did learn a few things that would make the install faster if I did it over (and maybe cheaper). It is a beefy, well built axle. The driveshaft does need to be replaced, and ordering it for some reason required some confusion about u joint sizing and of course added to the cost. It also has a lot more caster than stock. Even with adjustable lower control arms, I have like 8 degrees. I had to add adjustable uppers to get between 6-7 degrees.
 

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chevymitchell

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I have a 2018 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited (JL) with the D30/D35 front/rear axles I want to swap the stock axles for Rubicon D44 axles with E-Lockers. The Rubicon D44 on the JL is about 1.5" wider than the axles on my Sahara. Will the axles still bolt on directly without any fabrication?

Any help is much appreciated Thanks in advance!
A fellow Jeeper here in NC had some unfortunate events take place surrounding his stock Sahara rear axle.

His Jeep is in my garage right now and I'll be doing this swap for him. I'll make a step by step guide like I did for the gear swap.

It'll be the same swap @ChattVol had done minus the Rubicon Transfercase.

It's an easy swap to do, but to try and help answer questions before they come up, I'll make the guide.

The axles will start coming out around 11 this morning. The swap won't be done until the 20th or so because I'm leaving to grab my Jeep from Sacramento, wheel Colorado, and then drive home.
 

freddiegs

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A fellow Jeeper here in NC had some unfortunate events take place surrounding his stock Sahara rear axle.

His Jeep is in my garage right now and I'll be doing this swap for him. I'll make a step by step guide like I did for the gear swap.

It'll be the same swap @ChattVol had done minus the Rubicon Transfercase.

It's an easy swap to do, but to try and help answer questions before they come up, I'll make the guide.

The axles will start coming out around 11 this morning. The swap won't be done until the 20th or so because I'm leaving to grab my Jeep from Sacramento, wheel Colorado, and then drive home.
Can never have too much information :clap: It is a very easy install did mine with the help of another member on here in about 6 hours.
 

HayBuiltJLU

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I just installed a PR44 in my JL. Feel free to ask questions of it can be helpful. I’m glad I did it and would absolutely do it over, but I did learn a few things that would make the install faster if I did it over (and maybe cheaper). It is a beefy, well built axle. The driveshaft does need to be replaced, and ordering it for some reason required some confusion about u joint sizing and of course added to the cost. It also has a lot more caster than stock. Even with adjustable lower control arms, I have like 8 degrees. I had to add adjustable uppers to get between 6-7 degrees.
I am getting ready to place an order for the PR44 do you have any advice to offer that you learned from doing your axle swap? Also did you go with 35 Spline RCV axle shafts?
 

Jeepjunkie

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I am getting ready to place an order for the PR44 do you have any advice to offer that you learned from doing your axle swap? Also did you go with 35 Spline RCV axle shafts?
I don’t have RCV axle shafts, I have the hybrid JK inner/JL outers that come with the PR44, but I’m never running larger than 35’s.

If you already have adjustable control arms you’re set. As I said, I had too much caster initially and I needed adjustable upper and lower control arms.

Getting the new ball joints was a PITA. I got stock ones for the PR (I couldn’t source aftermarket ones).

The biggest challenge has been the driveshaft. First it took forever to get (needed the PR to be installed to measure the length needed, then the shop was delayed in making it) then I had vibes at highway speeds that went away when the new front DS was removed. I’m waiting for my replacement DS to arrive any day. I don’t blame the PR44 for the DS vibes obviously, but it is one more variable to account for when putting it back together.

One more thing... the PR doesn’t have a drain plug. Not a huge deal, but the gasket is a special shape so I’ll be RTVing it when removing the diff cover to change fluid.
 

HayBuiltJLU

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I don’t have RCV axle shafts, I have the hybrid JK inner/JL outers that come with the PR44, but I’m never running larger than 35’s.

If you already have adjustable control arms you’re set. As I said, I had too much caster initially and I needed adjustable upper and lower control arms.

Getting the new ball joints was a PITA. I got stock ones for the PR (I couldn’t source aftermarket ones).

The biggest challenge has been the driveshaft. First it took forever to get (needed the PR to be installed to measure the length needed, then the shop was delayed in making it) then I had vibes at highway speeds that went away when the new front DS was removed. I’m waiting for my replacement DS to arrive any day. I don’t blame the PR44 for the DS vibes obviously, but it is one more variable to account for when putting it back together.

One more thing... the PR doesn’t have a drain plug. Not a huge deal, but the gasket is a special shape so I’ll be RTVing it when removing the diff cover to change fluid.
I have found the same that OEM is the only option for ball joints, also did you go with a Yoke style pinion or flange style?
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