What did you do TO your Jeep JL today?

Carlton

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I installed LED pod/cube lights on the A Pillars. I measured beforehand so I was able to cut the wire and do all but one soldering point off the vehicle. Makes it much easier.

For each connection I solder each connection, heat shrink positive, heat shrink negative, heat shrink over both with a larger heat shrink sleeve, finish it off with electrical tape.

To run the wire I remove the side cowls and run the wire through there into the engine bay. On JKs I would also run the wire under the length of the hood cowl, however, on the JL water seems to gather in there. I decided to run the wire inside the bay instead where it appears dryer.

I've seen other members post that the only passthrough in the firewall is under the passenger side fender flare. This is not true. There are still two on the driver side. One is small, one is large. The large one has a hard plastic grommet you have to remove. I ran the wire and switch through here under the dash and through the steering wheel compartment. Same as on a JK. To reinstall the grommet you will have to snip a small piece of plastic on it to fit the wire.

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Carlton

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Smittybilt side armor install.

Should have taken 30 minutes but took hours due to a couple issues. I posted about it previously in this thread.

They are mounted by 2 bolts to each side of a body mount (4 total). You also need to drop a nut plate into the frame and install two more bolts. A trick to make this part easier is to place a screw driver through the frame and nut you aren't installing a bolt into. This will hold the nut plate in place while you install the first bolt.

There are also two nut plates attached to long wires. You are to install one on each side of the vehicle. The wire broke dropping the bracket into the frame. I couldn't get it out so I had to call my brother who has very long thin fingers. Took forever. I decided to skip these. No real need for them for me.

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Carlton

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Rear bumper install. Like with the front bumper, the YouTube removal videos are missing many steps, or include steps that require extra work. I was able to remove the bumper with the large brackets all at once. Cut out a few steps. There are two bolts that are damn near impossible to get to/remove. Short socket won't work and long socket won't fit. I had to alternate back and forth between both ends of a wrench. Each would only complete maybe a 1/16th of a turn. Took forever.

The rear bumper was a very tight fit/close to the body. If not aligned perfectly it would be pressing into the body in one place or another.

There is a brace you have to slide in between the muffler and frame. Four bolts go through the brace, frame, then bumper. There isn't much space to work and I ended up painting the muffler red from a cut on my hand so be careful!

There are also two bolts that mount on each side. The holes did not align on the passenger side so I left them off for now. I will have to go back and wallow the holes out with a dremel to fit the bolts.

Since there is no plate mount, my plan was to use a relocation bracket on the spare. I have decided against this. Not a fan of how it looks and wiring the light will be a hassle. I plan on mounting a license plate bracket to the bumper and using the OEM wiring harness.

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Stormin’ Moorman

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Ahh, that makes sense. The 2.0 took care of my steering shake, so I'd imagine that one is even much better. Keep us posted on how it performs!
I drive it a few miles today and I’m going on record as it’s a DRASTIC improvement. It has adjustment from 0-25 and I’ve got it at 22.
 

Roky

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Got it done, I’m officially on a rock krawler 3.5 inch X factor lift. It wasn’t to bad, thanked my buddy again, using a lift is sooooo much easier. Dogs name is Duke, he’s shop foreman....:)

The ride on the road is phenomenal, I thought the Mopar road nice, but this is even better. I’m still waiting on the rear correction pads, so I’m leaning to passenger side about 3/4”. And I still have to re route my e brake lines, before I wheel it. And I’m still hitting my exhaust with track bar when it flexes, so I’ll probably end up moving the rear axle a little bit.

But all in all, for the preliminary review, I’m very satisfied. I gained only 1/2” in height which means my Mopar 2” lift finally settled in right at 3” after 6 months.

I was hoping that I wouldn’t get any more height out of the lift, I mainly did this to get more down travel while wheeling.

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Mopar lift
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RK lift
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.....:)

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MYAMIA

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Installed Rubicon high line fender flares, 305 70 17 Nitto Ridge grapplers and 1.25” spacers.
Love the look of the tires sticking out just a little bit.

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Where did you got the fenders?
 

jmcl

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In preparation for top off during winter I added after market heated seats to my Jeep JL. Purchased kit for $40 off Ebay. Took me about 4-6 hours to run power, remove seats, remove seat cover, and reinstall. Overall looks rather factory and very satisfied with the heat.

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I pulled two wires from battery/fuse terminal to center console. I tied ignition wire into fuse F58 using micro fuse add a circuit from amazon. Circuit F58 is an existing seat heater circuit which works when using your remote start. I ran the second hot wire to battery terminal. I simply used a hanger to push a pull string through the firewall grommet on the passenger side and then fished the wire through with the pull string. You can see the grommet when laying on the ground behind the passenger tire. I tied the illumination wire to the light under the cup holder, you will see this when removing cup holder. The cup holder is very easy to remove just use your hand or tool and start at the back. Once removed you will find a star bit screw under the boot of the gear shifter knob. There are also the 4 allen head screws on the knob that will need to be removed. I used a 20mm step bit to drill the holes for the knobs. This did not go so well as there is a rubber layer that i had to later cut with a razor knife because the step bit would not cut. I think i would either use a paddle pit or whole saw if did again. Removed seats and then fold back leather using some snips on the hog rings. No need to separate back and bottom of seats. You will need some hog rings and hog ring pliers to reinstall leather. Go to youtube and get an idea how to do this. Also youtube on how to place carbon fiber heater. I just installed and then cut carbon fiber with razor knife to install seat. You just need a straight cut and make sure you don't cut the hot wire in the pad on right and left side. I had to shorten the install bar a quarter inch with some snips on one of the seats. No big deal. Make sure you do not install the pad with the thermostat under the seat back or it will shut off early from the opposing heating pad. There are some clips that you will have to do away with under the cup holder as they will be in the way. Just drill it out and make space. You will see what I am talking about once you lift up the cup holder console. Overall I am very satisfied. Expect install to take most of entire day. I could do again in 3 hours or less after first install. Let me know if you have any questions.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pad-Univ...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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melendez69

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Swapped out OEM tire carrier for Teraflex Alpha HD tire carrier. More of a PITA than I expected. Camera housing separated from three lug bolts and remained jammed in the carrier. Wrestled it out with pliers and bloody knuckles. Then realized I didn't have a T8 or 1.5mm hex key so I had to push pause and run to Home Depot. This all happening in my driveway while two Florida downpours occurred. Lastly, realized that the 3rd brake light relocation bracket release looks like a mountain bike tire quick release, but it isn't. It takes a hex key as well.

But here's the good news - it's on, the brushed aluminum camera housing and relocated brake light look cleaner and badass in general, it solved the back up sensor errors I was getting when in reverse because of the 35" spare riding too low on stock carrier, and the tire won't rip off the carrier and bounce down the highway ruining somebody's day! Despite the minor hassles and getting drenched, it's well worth it and highly recommended!
Nice... I ordered this a couple days ago. The instructional video makes removing the camera housing look so easy.
 

melendez69

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Got it done, I’m officially on a rock krawler 3.5 inch X factor lift. It wasn’t to bad, thanked my buddy again, using a lift is sooooo much easier. Dogs name is Duke, he’s shop foreman....:)

The ride on the road is phenomenal, I thought the Mopar road nice, but this is even better. I’m still waiting on the rear correction pads, so I’m leaning to passenger side about 3/4”. And I still have to re route my e brake lines, before I wheel it. And I’m still hitting my exhaust with track bar when it flexes, so I’ll probably end up moving the rear axle a little bit.

But all in all, for the preliminary review, I’m very satisfied. I gained only 1/2” in height which means my Mopar 2” lift finally settled in right at 3” after 6 months.

I was hoping that I wouldn’t get any more height out of the lift, I mainly did this to get more down travel while wheeling.
Nice work.... It still looks like you need an escalator to climb up in there.
 

Warpath

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Made an aerodynamic model Lego set of the Wrangler.
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BernJLUR

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Nice... I ordered this a couple days ago. The instructional video makes removing the camera housing look so easy.[/QUOTEp.

Yep. I thought so too. Most of it is very straightforward. I may have tapped the lug bolts too hard causing them to break free from the plastic camera housing. So, tap easy at first and build from there. And get those tiny ass torx and hex keys in advance. Those screws are TINY! Everything else is easy. I’m very happy with it - Got it from Northridge with their Labor Day sales code and paired it with my existing Mopar reinforced tailgate hinge. Hope you are happy with it too!
 

LaurenLeigh

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Biggest pia ever. Idk if the sport is different but the screw is so far over you can barley get to it . I overlooked it the first try because in the video it looks like the next screw over. I had to buy new screwdriver with a longer neck. I broke the round clip the goes over the screw on the marker light bracket but it diddnt effect anything. I also had a extra screw laying around from yesterday when I got pissed off and started unscrewing stuff around that area but I couldn't figure out where the hell it goes. Moral to the story when you got a screaming toddler and crying 1 month old that you can hear from the drive way and you tell wifey " I'll just be 10min” ur bound to rush and do something stupid. I guess my modding days are over .

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I get now why you guys were complaining about that one PITA screw. I was determined to switch mine for the clear ones this evening so I went outside and started pulling things apart, with the instructional videos by my side. Well, Diode Dynamics didn’t include the extra one-time-use pop rivots they say in their video they do, so I thought I would be able to make it happen without removing that one. All was going well and I was getting ready to pull the final few screws out, but then hubs came out to “help” me and wound up taking over. :mad: We realized later that pulling most of the bracket screws out was totally unnecessary and the only one that REALLY mattered was the one that’s damn near impossible to get to. Anyhow, in trying to get the new side marker screwed back in, my dearest husband also wound up breaking the round clip on the marker light bracket. I think it’s because he kept trying to jam the ratchet in place to reach the bolt since it’s in such an inconvenient spot. Oh well. Everything still went back together just fine but it got too dark to do the other side so that will happen tomorrow morning. I do love the way it looks for a (relatively) simple mod!

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