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WARN JL Rubicon Winch Mount Plate and Zeon 10-S Install

noreserve

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Thanks Tech Tim for the illustrated steps and info. I also appreciated reading through all of the comments - wish I would have done that prior to starting. I ran into a few of the ones mentioned, along with some of my own. I always anticipate an install taking me several times longer than what is estimated, but man, this one shouldn't have been as troublesome as it was. It really pulled my average down. I think I'm getting worse, even with more tools.

* Removed the Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum from my TJ off of a Poison Spyder bumper. That was loads of fun. It has been on there for a couple of years as a heavy bumper ornament waiting for me to finish my "project" TJ. Then the JL came along, I forgot what a hassle I had getting the Poison Spyder bumper to fit (frame grinding and such), but knew I didn't want to take it off. That winch was a lot easier to get onto the bumper before installation than trying to remove without taking the bumper back off. That gave me some nice raw knuckles to go into the JL install with. :)

* Everything was going as planned on the JL, even getting the winch mounted and the bumper slammed back into place. What would first come back to haunt me is step 12 in the Warn instructions in regard to removing the fog light harness clips. With the bumper back on, it seemed that I missed removing all harness wire mounting points - wasn't clear in the instructions. I thought the harness wire had gotten pinched by the front bumper. I ended up pulling the bumper off, removing the wire at additional clip points and still wasn't sure the holes and clips were going to "...hang loosely, but will later be secured to winch plate." Right. That never did work out. Got it routed pushed into the closest holes and connected back up, but that was a headache that I thought could have been avoided if they had clearly shown which of the harness clips to remove. It can be read as they ALL need to be removed, but it doesn't specify with that wording.

* Second issue was, of course, access to those inner bumper bolts. I don't think a winch/plate/bumper configuration could have been designed with any less tolerance if they tried. I have pivoting ratchets, all sorts of extensions and still could not find the trick. Access was a nightmare to turn the ratchets. It finally got done, but took a LONG time and lots of new aches were found afterward. My neck was already suffering from the TJ removal the day before. I envy those with a lift.

* Next issue was tightening the winch plate bracket to the frame skid plate mounting bracket. I may not have found the proper torque value for those, as one seemed to be questionable and potentially overtightened. I have forgotten which value I used - thought it was in the 30 - 40 range. I understand Warn doesn't want the liability of specifying vehicle torque values that might change, but it wasn't clear what that bracket and bolts were in the torque value table I found. The bumper torque values were no problem - "Front bumper to frame nuts - 66". Got it. By the time I got to the "Skid plate to frame - 48" I was already spooked about over tightening and stripping. The 48 lb ft seemed pretty high to me for those bolts into the thin nut fixtures, so I just tightened what felt right.

* Next issue was the fairlead. Of course I didn't have the correct bolt lengths among the Warn supplied ones I used previously. There are too many layers of metal - winch plate, filler plate, fairlead all combined to make me drive to Ace - and then to Home Depot. I ended up crushing right through one of the nice chrome cap nuts I had, so I had to find bolts that actually worked with nuts that would fit in the fairlead. And I also ended up having to turn the bolts around and have them on the outside versus nice chrome cap nuts. Of course neither ACE nor HD had the right chrome cap nut size for the bolts I could find. I ended up using some nice rusties - probably from the TJ - but they are hidden and will do the job. That fairlead was a major pain.

* Next up was routing the wiring. No problem on the TJ, with its cavernous engine bay. It took me FAR too long to study the routing possibilities - under this, beside that, separate positive and negative at this point, go in from different sides, etc. It also took me way too long to give in and remove the air intake box - didn't want to screw up those rubber mounts. Well, knowing what I know now - just YANK it up and it's out - I would have saved a lot of time. That frees up a lot of space for me to find more routing options. :)

* Yes, I nicked the winch paint - didn't read enough in the thread before I got to that point or I would have taped it off. It took nothing at all to remove that paint - steel on aluminum you know. I did put my Zeon cover on it, but that was a tight fit that I figured was too much of a pain. All of my effort was going to be rewarded with actually seeing what I installed - at least the Warn winch head peeking out. I left it off. It is waterproof, so screw it. Speaking of seeing anything - man, what a difference from when it was mounted up high on the TJ. I can't see anything now, so I imagine I'll be using a flashlight and praying for the best when winding the rope back on.

Well, like everything I've done, I can now do it in a third of the time. Not that I have winches to install every week.

I'll call it the Warn "witch" install and hope my next project goes more smoothly.
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Tech Tim

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Thanks for sharing your experience. It'll help others in the future! :like:
 

JeepTime

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Thanks for the write up! Really helped immensely! My friend and I installed my VR-8S with warn winch plate yesterday. First a question, then Just a few things of note I came across while doing mine. Figured maybe it'll help others

Question is, I see where most people ran the wiring, I ran mine the same way as in the write up, when i pulled it up i made sure it was above the sway bar. Is that the way most are doing it, above the sway bar, then up as is pictured in the write up? If not how are you all running the wiring? It seems to be working great this way so far.

-Some of the tool sizes stated in the writeup were incorrect. For instance we had to use a 16mm and a 14mm socket, not a 17 and a 13, perhaps the sizes of the hardware has changed, but in any case that was an easy solution.

-the hardware for the fairlead was just too short. Had to do a last minute scurry around stores to find bolts that would fit, winded up going with 12x1.5 40, I want to replace them with black hardware so I'll be going to ACE tomorrow to get black 12x1.75 50(as is the original hardware specs, just longer)

-We did it all using hand tools, we prefer the hands on and feeling it out when working with this stuff, however power tools would have sped up the process.

-Skid plate line up- mine lined back up perfectly, no issues at all. we left the items fairly loose until getting the bumper in place and that really helped us get everything in the right position before tightening it down. I'd recommend that as it helps you shuffle the stuff into place better than if it's incredibly tight before putting the bumper back in.

All in all turned out great and I'm super happy

IMG_9457.jpeg
IMG_9482.jpeg
 
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Tech Tim

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Thanks for the write up! Really helped immensely! My friend and I installed my VR-8S with warn winch plate yesterday.
Thanks for reply, nice to know that we are helping people with these How-Tos.


Question is, I see where most people ran the wiring, I ran mine the same way as in the write up, when i pulled it up i made sure it was above the sway bar. Is that the way most are doing it, above the sway bar, then up as is pictured in the write up? If not how are you all running the wiring? It seems to be working great this way so far.
Yes, we route the wiring up over the sway bar and then up between the airbox and the battery.


-Some of the tool sizes stated in the writeup were incorrect. For instance we had to use a 16mm and a 14mm socket, not a 17 and a 13, perhaps the sizes of the hardware has changed, but in any case that was an easy solution.
We'll check that out on the next one we do. Usually my notes from the install are pretty accurate, but maybe I noted them wrong. Thanks for the heads up.


All in all turned out great and I'm super happy

IMG_9457.jpeg
It came out looking great!
 

Ed El Man

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Thanks for the write up! Really helped immensely! My friend and I installed my VR-8S with warn winch plate yesterday. First a question, then Just a few things of note I came across while doing mine. Figured maybe it'll help others

Question is, I see where most people ran the wiring, I ran mine the same way as in the write up, when i pulled it up i made sure it was above the sway bar. Is that the way most are doing it, above the sway bar, then up as is pictured in the write up? If not how are you all running the wiring? It seems to be working great this way so far.

-Some of the tool sizes stated in the writeup were incorrect. For instance we had to use a 16mm and a 14mm socket, not a 17 and a 13, perhaps the sizes of the hardware has changed, but in any case that was an easy solution.

-the hardware for the fairlead was just too short. Had to do a last minute scurry around stores to find bolts that would fit, winded up going with 12x1.5 40, I want to replace them with black hardware so I'll be going to ACE tomorrow to get black 12x1.75 50(as is the original hardware specs, just longer)

-We did it all using hand tools, we prefer the hands on and feeling it out when working with this stuff, however power tools would have sped up the process.

-Skid plate line up- mine lined back up perfectly, no issues at all. we left the items fairly loose until getting the bumper in place and that really helped us get everything in the right position before tightening it down. I'd recommend that as it helps you shuffle the stuff into place better than if it's incredibly tight before putting the bumper back in.

All in all turned out great and I'm super happy

IMG_9457.jpeg
IMG_9482.jpeg
 

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chadc880

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So I just bought my Zeon 8S and went to order the mopar mounting plate from the dealer. Now they say its on backorder and there is not ETA. I am hesitant with the warn plate due to the fitment issue. Has warn fixed this problem ??
 

wanderer

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try the arctec plate
 

Midding

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So I just bought my Zeon 8S and went to order the mopar mounting plate from the dealer. Now they say its on backorder and there is not ETA. I am hesitant with the warn plate due to the fitment issue. Has warn fixed this problem ??
What fitment issue? Just installed the Warn plate with a Zeon 10S, fit great. Did have to dremel the skid plate holes about 3/8” but not a big deal. Extremely happy with the result.
 

chadc880

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What fitment issue? Just installed the Warn plate with a Zeon 10S, fit great. Did have to dremel the skid plate holes about 3/8” but not a big deal. Extremely happy with the result.
Thats the problem. You shouldn't have to dremel the skid plate out. The warn plate with the brackets move the entire bumper out whatever the distance of the thickness of the bracket is making things not align correctly. Mopar mounts the plate by side brackets.
 

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chadc880

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try the arctec plate
After reviewing everyones winch plate, I got to chat with Arctec and they said they just released a completely redesigned winch plate that requires no alteration to anything. Simple bolt on set up. Its 100$ more than their previous version which was $199 so they say.

So I think I am going to go this route.

Thank you
 

chadc880

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After reviewing everyones winch plate, I got to chat with Arctec and they said they just released a completely redesigned winch plate that requires no alteration to anything. Simple bolt on set up. Its 100$ more than their previous version which was $199 so they say.

So I think I am going to go this route.

Thank you
Artec Plate worked perfect. Now for some add-ons

IMG_0506.JPG.jpeg
 

RagTopDeluxe

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We put this winch in this weekend. Thank you @Tech Tim for the write-up and others for your observations.

Regarding the comments of the tight fit and workarounds...

giphy.gif


I'll add some of our own observations to the above:

- Why do the instructions state to put the fairlead on *after* putting the bumper back on the Jeep? It would be incredibly easier to do that *before* putting it on. Waiting until it's on is difficult because there is so little clearance (theme for the day!) between the fairlead and the winch. I was able to reach in to hand place and tighten nuts, but I've got bruised hands to show for it. That part was SO frustrating.

- It's obvious *now*, but put the protective sleeve on the rope before attaching the rope to the spool. If you wait until afterwards, it's either tear the sleeve and sew it, or buy a velcro sleeve (what I did).

- My Jeep isn't lifted, so we put it up on stands, which helped give us clearance underneath and put the winch at an easier level to work on.

- We used ½" and ⅜" drive socket wrenches. An articulated or wobbly will be very helpful. Having a narrow head ⅜" wrench was handy for those inter bumper bolts. Speaking of the devils...

- I was able to tighten the inner lower driver-side bolt without moving the winch, but that inner upper driver-side bolt required unbolting the winch (loosening the front bolts) and slightly moving the winch so we could get a socket in there. Of course, that lead to the nuts in the winch coming loose. That was fun. My husbands magnetic wand for rescuing fallen screws got a good workout. Worth its weight in gold.

We used the Warn winch plate and this is the Warn low grille guard.

IMG_7290-X3.jpg
 

GeoTracker

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First off, thanks everyone on this thread. Immense help with getting a Warn 10S Zeon installed today.

Couple of observations in case it helps someone. First a floor jack with a piece of wood against the Warn winch plate helped keep the factory skid plate holes aligned. We lifted the plate plus winch and got the bumper on first. After that the skid was installed by loosely threading everything and the tightening the screws on the frame side first. Then do the bumper bits. Didn’t need to file anything.

Second observation, get some wobble and extensions for the inside bumper nuts. They are easier to align if you look from the outside in to the center of the Jeep from under. You can see the nut and still manage to get a finger in to align the socket to the buts.

Hope this help.
 
 



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