JL - Trailer Brake Controller

[RALivi1984]

Help me see if I have this right; Never done this before but I have a basic understanding of wiring.

I have a '19 sport 2 door. No towing package. I need to tow a 7 pin pop up with brakes.

I bought the 4 pin wiring kit, looks straight forward, shouldn't have any issues.

I need to purchase an adapter to 7 pin that the 4 pin plugs into and has leads for the 3 additional. Easy enough.

I need to buy a brake controller. Again, seems easy enough, straight forward.

My question is wiring the brake controller. I can buy this https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpow...ke+controller&qid=1560053155&s=gateway&sr=8-9

To wire it up. Where would I connect the blue signal wire in the Jeep to make the brakes work? Am I correct after reading through all this that no one can figure it out?

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[Fatman]

You can go from 7 to 4 but not 4 to 7

 

[RALivi1984]

You can go from 7 to 4 but not 4 to 7

They sell adapters from 4 to 7. The 4 ping plugs in and the three remaining pins have leads that need to be wired. It is my understanding that;s exactly how you go from 4 to 7?

This https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773LPXG8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A35MVU1RBDDOX3&psc=1

 

[Fatman]

best I can say is, WOW.
I've always been the kind of guy that does it right or not at all.
Basically this part is shit, if you want to "rig it up" like this, PM me your address and I'll send you a part that at least looks a whole lot more like OEM, the install is going to be a real PITA due to all the computer BS.

 

[RALivi1984]

best I can say is, WOW.
I've always been the kind of guy that does it right or not at all.
Basically this part is shit, if you want to "rig it up" like this, PM me your address and I'll send you a part that at least looks a whole lot more like OEM, the install is going to be a real PITA due to all the computer BS.

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FK93VMF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to take care of the computer. Plugged right into the tail light harnesses. Wired it in today.

Next I will install this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EOV424/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which you say is Junk. Why? I already have the 4 pin which I know I wired in correctly. Connect the 4 Pin and wire the 3 remaining pins in. That means when I pull my utility trailer, which is 4 pin, all I have to do is disconnect that from the connector and plug it into the trailer.

I will finish out the installation with this controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M59QRWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as well as this wiring kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW8PHEQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Already know I can just splice the signal wire into the 3rd brake light, so shouldn't have any issues there anymore. Everything is pretty straightforward. So tell me, what exactly am I doing so wrong? Because the way I'm taking it, and maybe I'm wrong, but you'd be much happier if I cut off the 4 pin plug off the 7 pin adapter and cut off the 4 pin plug I have on the jeep and connected those wires together you wouldn't be 'wow'ing me

 

[Fatman]

I get it.
The factory harness is not much more than all the and parts and pieces you got and it's a factory install.
I prefer not to cut and splice wires in a vehicle I paid almost $40k for, maybe it's just me but I'd rather pay a few more dollars and have it be right as well as look right.
Been a car guy all my life, I stay clear of cars that have been tampered with, it really lowers the value.

 

[RALivi1984]

I get it.
The factory harness is not much more than all the and parts and pieces you got and it's a factory install.
I prefer not to cut and splice wires in a vehicle I paid almost $40k for, maybe it's just me but I'd rather pay a few more dollars and have it be right as well as look right.
Been a car guy all my life, I stay clear of cars that have been tampered with, it really lowers the value.

?? The single only wire I'm splicing is the signal wire from the controller going into the third brake light in the tailgate. (It's the white with green stripe if anyone's interested). And, I'll just be using one of those clip on splice things, won't even cut the wire, Everything else is wired to either the battery or a ground. The first item I linked to above was plug and play, it's made for a JL. Take off taillights, unplug connectors, plug in supplied connector. No splicing,

I don't understand what you're saying, The wires I am running are the same anyone installing a 7 pin would have to. Only difference is 4 of those pins go to a 4 pin plug before continuing on to where they go. I have the added bonus of having both plugs available, no adapter required, just hook up and go. That's a positive to me

 

[LincolnSixAlpha]

@JLURmojito

Thanks for going through the clarifications of issues surrounding brake controllers, and using the factory wiring in our 2108+ JL's. You'd think that in today's day and age that these things would be a no brainer with respect to getting the wiring correct.

Just a quick question for my understanding, but what I gathered from your comments are that the brake lights will NOT work when using the manual override on the brake controller, however, I'm assuming they will work correctly when just applying brakes normally, ie without using the override?

 

[JLURmojito]

@JLURmojito

Thanks for going through the clarifications of issues surrounding brake controllers, and using the factory wiring in our 2108+ JL's. You'd think that in today's day and age that these things would be a no brainer with respect to getting the wiring correct.

Just a quick question for my understanding, but what I gathered from your comments are that the brake lights will NOT work when using the manual override on the brake controller, however, I'm assuming they will work correctly when just applying brakes normally, ie without using the override?

100% Correct.

 

[Drichardjackson]

I tested the curt wireless brake controller yesterday and it performed flawlessly. I was very impressed with the ease of use and the fact there was no requirement for a hard wire install. If you are looking for a solution for a brake controller, do not have the brake controller plug, did not get the factory tow installed, or do not want to hard wire a brake controller in the cab I highly recommend it.

Help me understand how you can use this without the factory tow wiring please! I have exactly this problem and I want to buy a small camper this fall and would love to not have to bother with wiring to the front of the vehicle!! Thank you in advance!

 

[Jgeiken]

I feel like there is a misunderstanding. The 3014 harness is indeed wired correctly for our JL's. The problem with the 3014 is the exemption of a diode on the brake signal wire.
The 3024 harness has the diode, but is wired incorrectly. The black and blue wire positions need to be flipped. This effectively converts the 3024 into a 3014, but has the necessary diode.

I think the 3024 is the best choice between the two because it can be modified in less than 1 minute with a couple of eyeglass screwdrivers. The 3014 will require additional parts (heat shrink, solder, flux, and the correctly sized diode). In addition, the wire harness will need to be opened up to install it... why go through all of that work when it is already pre-installed on another suitable candidate.

I bought the 3024 on your recommendation to replace my 3014. But I can’t for the life of me figure out how to swap these wires with a screwdriver without cutting them. Can you help me out a bit? Thanks

 

[digitalbliss]

I bought the 3024 on your recommendation to replace my 3014. But I can’t for the life of me figure out how to swap these wires with a screwdriver without cutting them. Can you help me out a bit? Thanks

fist pull out the white center plastic piece. You will have to slide the tabs on each side first and then pull it out from the center of the clip. Once the plastic piece is out, you will see a slot above each wire. Using a small flathead, insert the flathead above the wire in the slot and push. This pressure will release the tab that holds in the wire. You will have to pull the wire from the back while simultaneously pushing the release tab with the flathead from the front. Once released, do the other wire, and swap their location. Inserting them only requires pushing them in as they will snap in place. Replace the white plastic centerpiece and you're good to go.

 

[Jgeiken]

fist pull out the white center plastic piece. You will have to slide the tabs on each side first and then pull it out from the center of the clip. Once the plastic piece is out, you will see a slot above each wire. Using a small flathead, insert the flathead above the wire in the slot and push. This pressure will release the tab that holds in the wire. You will have to pull the wire from the back while simultaneously pushing the release tab with the flathead from the front. Once released, do the other wire, and swap their location. Inserting them only requires pushing them in as they will snap in place. Replace the white plastic centerpiece and you're good to go.

Thank you!

 

[thehangingchad]

Help me understand how you can use this without the factory tow wiring please! I have exactly this problem and I want to buy a small camper this fall and would love to not have to bother with wiring to the front of the vehicle!! Thank you in advance!

You don't have to have the 'factory tow package' which includes the plug and play harness under the dash for a brake controller. That being said, you still need a 7-pin connection to connect the camper to your vehicle. There are a number of solutions out there, but I wanted mine to be factory as possible so I purchased the factory 7-pin kit (Mopar 82215398AB) and installed it to get the 7/4 way connectors. I purchased this from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-82215896-Trailer-Harness-Wrangler/dp/B07BQXDFC3). It does take some time to install, but at the end of the day it is plug and play without needing anything being done at the dealer. The tutorial on the forum is spot on for the install. I believe it took me around 4 hours. Another note on the 7 pin and the hitch. If you have the mopar hitch and the mopar 7 pin wiring kit all is good. But there are a number of hitches, when I was looking, that do not work with the mopar 7 pin. The curt hitch doesn't work with mopar wiring mount on the bumper. It covers up the hole that the 7 pin screws into. So, just one more thing to remember. I purchased my hitch here: https://www.cjponyparts.com/mopar-t...mper-jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-2019/p/68251844AB/

The next step is the brake controller to control the brakes on the camper. Since you do not have the tow option from the factory, which means you do not have the quick connect under the dash for the brake controller, you will need to go a different route. Others are talking about tapping into the 3rd brake light and other things, which will work, but I did not want to do all of that. I decided to spend a little more money on the curt wireless brake controller. I purchased through etrailer (https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Curt/C51180.html). You can find discount codes for 5%-10% off as well. The advantage is that once you plug it into the 7-pin, you are done. No wires. Nothing screwed into your dash. You can also take it to ANY vehicle you want. It works via bluetooth and remembers your preferences. If you do not connect it to your phone it remembers the last settings used and still works. I have enjoyed it for what it is.... I have towed my camper roughly 1000 miles with the brake controller with no issues.

All of that said I have roughly $500 in adding the 'tow package.' 4 hours of installation time. Countless hours of research lol. I wish the Jeep had the factory tow option from the factory because it is a pain in the rear, but my wife found the 'one she had to have' on the lot and I am a sucker for my wife.

 

[tmcarr]

Just to chime in, I just returned yesterday from a trip to the Great Smoky Mtn's towing a Jayco 16MRB trailer about 650 miles round trip. The JL performed flawlessly (easily maintained 65mph going up Jelico Mtn on I-75 at the KY-TN border in 4th gear at about 4k rpm). When I purchased the JL, my plan was to tow it behind a Class C to be purchased later, so I did not need a "Tow Package" for the JL. I since found this trailer that was within the JL tow rating but I had neither the wiring or the hitch (the "Tow Package" would have also included a 240 amp alternator and aux. switches).
I installed the MOPAR trailer wiring harness (my first attempt at removing trim panels...wasn't too bad) and a MOPAR JL Hitch.
Wiring harness worked perfectly once installed, no computer flash necessary. Hitch was four bolts...easy peasy.
Trailer harness included the "blue" trailer brake wire, but there was no brake trigger wire to be found (because no tow package). There was a forum post of wiring diagrams, and I found the schematic of the trigger wire but could not find the physical wire.
What I did find, on aftermarket, was a Curt Echo Mobile. This thing is amazing, and after several trips over the past five months, it has performed flawlessly (I am a non-paid spokesman). It has an tri-axis accelerometer that detects whether you are braking minor or majorly and apples the trailer brakes in a relative proportion. It connects blue-tooth to your smart phone and shows the percentage of braking and also allows you to apply the brakes manually by pressing a giant orange button on your smartphone screen.
I did the setup one time, it has never failed to reconnect (iPhone 8) and it has never lost blue-tooth connectivity. It plugs inline between your 7-pin vehicle connector and your 7-pin trailer wire. You do need the "hot" wire from the seven-pin connector to power the device, but you do not need to connect the "blue" wire to anything.
This thing mimics the proportional braking of my boat trailers "surge" brakes, only electric. You can even program it for four different vehicle combinations and move it from vehicle to vehicle. I cannot say enough good things about it. Highly recommended.


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