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3.5" Full Droop - Be Warned

Zoobie

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I have the MetalCloak JL Wrangler Game-Changer Suspension, 3.5", RockSport Edition lift on my JLU… I just got back from an amazing trip to Moab, where my MetalCloak performed awesome! However, there was some carnage and lessons learned... so sharing here so that others can learn.
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1. At full droop the front drive shaft comes in contact with the factory OEM skid (it’s really just a bar that goes across). On my trip to Moab, my front drive shaft was damaged…I am going to replace with an ADAMS.


2. On the front axle there is a cable for the electronic lockers on Rubicon's as well as a Center Axle Disconnect (CAD) cable, which are not long enough at full droop. On the rear there is a single cable for the electronic lockers that connects to the diff on Rubicon's. While on obstacles I got full droop and ended up ripping them both out of my front axle. The clips that tie the cables to the frame need to be cut to give additional slack... that should be sufficient or you may need to splice and lengthen. This really applies to anyone going with 3.5+ lifts.


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IPvFletch

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Interesting. I have a sport and have yet to hit full droop (don't even have quick discos so kinda hard atm), but my 3.5" kit included an "upgraded" driveshaft specifically for this, so I hope it will work out. I don't have a factory skid plate, but I do have the crossmembers, so it probably bolts to that and that is what it hits (?)

Hopefully some others will chime in, a LOT of ppl have a 3.5" lift, and in fact the Mopar 2" lift on a Rubicon yields a 3.5" lift from the factory Sport height, so that should be a lot of folks on here.

Otherwise, I will post back when I get to try this, but it won't be anytime super soon anyways my Jeep is 1000 miles away right now... :angry:
 

TroyBoy

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Route you ebrake cables under the frame cross member and remove the clips that hold the locker cables and FAD cable to the frame.
 

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Zoobie

Zoobie

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Metal Cloak has this on their website and they recommend cutting all the cable ties, as well.

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Yes, they recently added this... after feedback like mine which I sent them prior to posting here :)
 

Jeepin_Donnie

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Yes, they recently added this... after feedback like mine which I sent them prior to posting here :)
Glad I found this thread! I will be upgrading to the 3.5 inch MetalCloak lift soon!
 

RedJeep78

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good to know, did you have issues with front brake line or the rear ebrake cable or rear locker cable?
I have a 3.5 MC lift, and when it was first installed the front break lines were getting stretched and cutting off brake fluid on turns causing me to loose front braking.
My installer had to add breakline slack and a added a special metal mount for the break lines. apparently the directions in the MC package didn't account for needing this.
 

TylerR

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I'm finding out the hard way, but I took mine to an installer for the MC 3.5. Took it to the dealer this morning because the locker light started flashing on my drive home after they did the retorque. Dealer called saying it's because there's not enough slack at full droop on the wiring and it's causing strain on the connectors. Told them to take some pictures if those clips are attached so I can let the installer know. So far he estimated the repair around $350, but they're still diagnosing.
 

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I'm finding out the hard way, but I took mine to an installer for the MC 3.5. Took it to the dealer this morning because the locker light started flashing on my drive home after they did the retorque. Dealer called saying it's because there's not enough slack at full droop on the wiring and it's causing strain on the connectors. Told them to take some pictures if those clips are attached so I can let the installer know. So far he estimated the repair around $350, but they're still diagnosing.

We have found this to be an issue if the connectors are not undone during the install. That last little push to get the coils in is normally what we see causing it. Under full travel we have not seen or heard of any issues.
 

TylerR

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We have found this to be an issue if the connectors are not undone during the install. That last little push to get the coils in is normally what we see causing it. Under full travel we have not seen or heard of any issues.
So after looking at everything it appears the installer did everything correctly and will be getting a new rear differential. Parts are in stock and should be here in a week with install taking 5-6 hours all covered by warranty.
 

Punkindave

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We have found this to be an issue if the connectors are not undone during the install. That last little push to get the coils in is normally what we see causing it. Under full travel we have not seen or heard of any issues.
On a 3.5" game changer I disconnected all wiring.
I noticed that once installed, jacking the front caused the wiring to hyper-extend and would have caused damage if I had not been watching as I was jacking. To create more slack I popped the retainers on the harness and cut the tie wrap that created a loop too. Still not sure if that'll be enough for a full droop slack.
 

quietpeen

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Has anyone had, or heard of issues with the 2.5 game changer?
since the 2.5" lift uses the same shocks as the 3.5" lift they are subject to all the same things at full articulation. I have the 2.5" shocks and an adams driveshaft. I was running 2" bump stop extension up front and my driveshaft was lightly rubbing on one of the exhaust shields.
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