Can’t tell a difference between the two. Both perform great. The fox was very difficult to source due to being sold out and just wanted another option to order. For the money, I’d stay with fox but the king does look good
Tara,
Thank you for the mention! Don't forget, we've got our Sector Shaft Brace coming out soon as well.
I can attest to this set up. I have the Flip drag link steering geometry kit from Roam and its flawless. I just drove across country and back (about 6k miles) with wheeling in between the whole time. Never had bump steer, wandering, death wobble. Of any kind. Even with almost 6 inches of lift on 37 inch MT, it tracks dead straight any speed on the highway. And I put my jeep through its paces no joke and then jump right back on the hwy. Sometimes without airing back up for a while lol. (We've all been there).What problems are you experiencing with your JL currently that would necessitate the replacement/upgrade of the components you've listed?
Specifically, while we've offered a complete steering geometry upgrade kit since May of 2018, its not something that we recommend installing unless you're presently experiencing one or more of the following steering related issues:
01. You've installed a 3.5" or higher lift kit and need a replacement aftermarket trackbar to center the front and/or rear axles.
02. You are currently running 37" tires or larger, or some sort of extremely heavy 35" tire package, and after alignment, are experiencing both steering drift AND a transient steering pull in one direction or another, necessitating an uprated steering stabilizer.
03. You are currently experiencing some sort of steering wobble, and after diagnosis of all of the ball joints in the front suspension already to not be at fault, necessitating an uprated steering stabilizer.
04. During or after alignment, you are experiencing some sort of alignment spec deviation that you are unable to correct with the stock components, necessitating a set of aftermarket adjustable control arms.
05. You have installed a 3.5" or higher lift kit and the wheels are no longer centered in the wheel wells and to gain additional clearance, a set of aftermarket adjustable control arms are needed.
If you're not experiencing any of the above conditions, in my opinion, "upgrading" your steering related components may not result in a noticeable improvement to your driving experience (assuming that the kit was engineered correctly and was also installed correctly). While we offer a complete steering geometry kit, we do not actively market our kit because its meant to be a supporting component to something like either our JL Long Arm Suspension System or our JL Coilover Conversion System, either of which are going to be a fairly involved installation. To clarify, if you have a bone stock JL and are running 33's or even 35's on the stock rims, installing one of our JL Steering Geometry Kits or for that matter anyone else's will result in a JL that does not drive any differently vs stock. So in my opinion, I would recommend upgrading your steering related components only until after you've started experiencing some sort of an issue that can not be corrected with the stock components or have already maxed out the adjustments on the stock steering components. That and because these are all wear and tear items we're talking about so getting the maximum usage out of your stock components before replacement will probably be the most cost effective path...
However, if you are experiencing any of the above issues, our JL Steering Geometry Kit will provide you with the following:
The ROAM JL Steering Geometry Kit : includes the ROAM JL Drag Link Flip Kit, ROAM JL Front Trackbar Relocation Kit and the ROAM JL Front Track Bar
Instead of talking about the boring stuff like how we're using DOM chromoly or HD oversized forged rod ends lets talk about the differences:
- No bump stop extensions needed - high clearance drag link and track bar will clear frame rails even when installed on a stock height JL under full articulation and suspension movement. Will not reduce available suspension travel unlike other track bars that do not account for frame rail clearance. Does not require any bump stop extensions - all needed clearance vs the frame rails is built in already.
- Raised roll center height designed to work as a system. Tested to be perfectly parallel pivot to pivot between the drag link and the track bar.
- Adjustable heavy duty track bar that curves at the very end so it can be installed flipped upside down in case you're going back to stock. Compatible with the stock mounting location as well as the trackbar relocation bracket.
- No cutting or welding required for installation.
- JL steering knuckle drill jig - why freehand drill something that can easily go wrong when a jig can make things a lot easier and safer? Our JL steering knuckle drill jig bolts to the steering knuckle so that when you drill the steering knuckle to reverse the taper you'll always be centered and the alignment will always be straight.
Here's an example of a JL equipped with our JL Steering Geometry Kit on a CTI ramp. Without building the necessary clearance into both the drag link and the track bar, by installing a drag link flip kit the drag will will interfere with the passenger side frame rail. Our JL Steering Geometry Kit is engineered to not only include the necessary clearance vs the frame rail so you don't need any bump stop extensions, we also use CNC bent .250 wall chromoly DOM tubing for all of our track bars and drag links (1.75" .250 wall and then 2" .250 wall) for the ultimate in strength and structural rigidity (for the ultimate steering precision).
If you do not require a flipped drag link, in my opinion the Metal Cloak track bars are a great alternative as well. We won't hesitate to recommend any of their stuff to anyone as well.
Thanks!
Tara @ ROAM
I currently have the 3.5" Metal Cloak lift sitting on 38's. I bought the Steersmarts flip draglink, track bar relocation bracket and tie rod assembly back in January (already had the Metal Cloak adjustable track bar so did not by theirs). Finally got installed a couple of months ago but had not got a chance to take it out and get it fully articulated tell earlier this month, even with the 3" of bump stop the flip link hits the frame. Did some searching on here and apparently that is a common problem with the SS and MC 3.5" lift. My original plan was to do a fender chop or new fenders and pull some bump stops, obviously wont work with the SS. From what I am gathering from you if I ran your flip link then I could pull bump stops if my tires would not hit the fenders, is that correct. What components would I need to swap out to do your flip link?What problems are you experiencing with your JL currently that would necessitate the replacement/upgrade of the components you've listed?
Specifically, while we've offered a complete steering geometry upgrade kit since May of 2018, its not something that we recommend installing unless you're presently experiencing one or more of the following steering related issues:
01. You've installed a 3.5" or higher lift kit and need a replacement aftermarket trackbar to center the front and/or rear axles.
02. You are currently running 37" tires or larger, or some sort of extremely heavy 35" tire package, and after alignment, are experiencing both steering drift AND a transient steering pull in one direction or another, necessitating an uprated steering stabilizer.
03. You are currently experiencing some sort of steering wobble, and after diagnosis of all of the ball joints in the front suspension already to not be at fault, necessitating an uprated steering stabilizer.
04. During or after alignment, you are experiencing some sort of alignment spec deviation that you are unable to correct with the stock components, necessitating a set of aftermarket adjustable control arms.
05. You have installed a 3.5" or higher lift kit and the wheels are no longer centered in the wheel wells and to gain additional clearance, a set of aftermarket adjustable control arms are needed.
If you're not experiencing any of the above conditions, in my opinion, "upgrading" your steering related components may not result in a noticeable improvement to your driving experience (assuming that the kit was engineered correctly and was also installed correctly). While we offer a complete steering geometry kit, we do not actively market our kit because its meant to be a supporting component to something like either our JL Long Arm Suspension System or our JL Coilover Conversion System, either of which are going to be a fairly involved installation. To clarify, if you have a bone stock JL and are running 33's or even 35's on the stock rims, installing one of our JL Steering Geometry Kits or for that matter anyone else's will result in a JL that does not drive any differently vs stock. So in my opinion, I would recommend upgrading your steering related components only until after you've started experiencing some sort of an issue that can not be corrected with the stock components or have already maxed out the adjustments on the stock steering components. That and because these are all wear and tear items we're talking about so getting the maximum usage out of your stock components before replacement will probably be the most cost effective path...
However, if you are experiencing any of the above issues, our JL Steering Geometry Kit will provide you with the following:
The ROAM JL Steering Geometry Kit : includes the ROAM JL Drag Link Flip Kit, ROAM JL Front Trackbar Relocation Kit and the ROAM JL Front Track Bar
Instead of talking about the boring stuff like how we're using DOM chromoly or HD oversized forged rod ends lets talk about the differences:
- No bump stop extensions needed - high clearance drag link and track bar will clear frame rails even when installed on a stock height JL under full articulation and suspension movement. Will not reduce available suspension travel unlike other track bars that do not account for frame rail clearance. Does not require any bump stop extensions - all needed clearance vs the frame rails is built in already.
- Raised roll center height designed to work as a system. Tested to be perfectly parallel pivot to pivot between the drag link and the track bar.
- Adjustable heavy duty track bar that curves at the very end so it can be installed flipped upside down in case you're going back to stock. Compatible with the stock mounting location as well as the trackbar relocation bracket.
- No cutting or welding required for installation.
- JL steering knuckle drill jig - why freehand drill something that can easily go wrong when a jig can make things a lot easier and safer? Our JL steering knuckle drill jig bolts to the steering knuckle so that when you drill the steering knuckle to reverse the taper you'll always be centered and the alignment will always be straight.
Here's an example of a JL equipped with our JL Steering Geometry Kit on a CTI ramp. Without building the necessary clearance into both the drag link and the track bar, by installing a drag link flip kit the drag will will interfere with the passenger side frame rail. Our JL Steering Geometry Kit is engineered to not only include the necessary clearance vs the frame rail so you don't need any bump stop extensions, we also use CNC bent .250 wall chromoly DOM tubing for all of our track bars and drag links (1.75" .250 wall and then 2" .250 wall) for the ultimate in strength and structural rigidity (for the ultimate steering precision).
If you do not require a flipped drag link, in my opinion the Metal Cloak track bars are a great alternative as well. We won't hesitate to recommend any of their stuff to anyone as well.
Thanks!
Tara @ ROAM
So, you have a few things going on. I believe the Teraflex track bar relocation bracket is not intended for high steer, but rather so you can continue using a stock length track bar since they don't include one in the kit. You will want a high steer specific track bar relocation bracket when flipping your drag link. Flipping the drag link does move it more than 3", but it isn't 1:1 to the track bar since the bars are different lengths. We move the track bar up a little over 3" as well, but our bracket is not out yet.
