NathanG
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting this. Since my tach rarely climbs above 3500 this is pretty worthless for me. Strange that it kicks in so late. I thought supercharging was supposed to kick in lower than a turbo.
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JLRU Manual T Forced Induction Experience (ProCharger supercharger)
AZDustMuncher
Well-Known Member
That's funny, when I accelerate my jeep is rarely below 3500 rpm. lol
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Torero
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #33
Not all superchargers are the same. Mine is a ProCharger which is nothing but a turbo driven by belt. Other kind that use screw type shafts produce torque at much lower rpm. But I would say that for lower rpm driving like rock crawling gearing is the way to go. Superchargers belong on paved roads, in my opinion.
Kezza
Well-Known Member
Was that while towing your camper ?Update. Took a long trip, Chicago, Topeka, KS. I do that trip often and my mpg is around 14 or less mpg. This last trip my wife and daughter were the only drivers. CC set at 75 mph and the mpg was 17 flatI didn’t know I drove so different from them.
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Torero
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #36
Well, the JLRU is in the shop. 20,345 miles. The serpentine belt broke. Luckily it was in town (I often take really long trips). Had the JL towed to my house. This is strike one for the JL. I hate unreliable cars, and before all the preaching about the SC, I have three other cars with SC and they have never let me stranded on the side of the road.
But it gets worse. Replaced the belt, which was not easy at all, because with the SC you cannot release the tensioner without removing some bracket next to it.
Then started the engine, all look good and sounded good, took it around the block and it was fine until I accelerated past 3500 rpm and engine cut off (like when you reach the red RPM, but this was only 3500) then the check engine light came on. Code P06DD and limp mode. The RPM will not go above 3500 and (or because) the oil pump is not kicking to second stage. Below 3500 is stage 1 and max 40psi, above 3500 the oil pump should step up to stage 2 and go way higher on the psi.
Pulled into the driveway and oil was dripping from somewhere in front of the engine, higher than the crankshaft.
I don’t have time, nor a helper, so I took it to the shop. No warranty of course.
I hope is not too serious.
I am hoping the belt when it broke ripped off some oil sensor or something of that sort. No idea.
The biggest piece you could see of the old belt was a shred of about 2 inches, the rest was like confetti.
But it gets worse. Replaced the belt, which was not easy at all, because with the SC you cannot release the tensioner without removing some bracket next to it.
Then started the engine, all look good and sounded good, took it around the block and it was fine until I accelerated past 3500 rpm and engine cut off (like when you reach the red RPM, but this was only 3500) then the check engine light came on. Code P06DD and limp mode. The RPM will not go above 3500 and (or because) the oil pump is not kicking to second stage. Below 3500 is stage 1 and max 40psi, above 3500 the oil pump should step up to stage 2 and go way higher on the psi.
Pulled into the driveway and oil was dripping from somewhere in front of the engine, higher than the crankshaft.
I don’t have time, nor a helper, so I took it to the shop. No warranty of course.
I hope is not too serious.
I am hoping the belt when it broke ripped off some oil sensor or something of that sort. No idea.
The biggest piece you could see of the old belt was a shred of about 2 inches, the rest was like confetti.
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Torero
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #39
Update.
Wrangler still in the shop. The oil leak has been located at the crankshaft seal. One of the idlers was misaligned causing the belt to split lengthways. The loose split got caught between the crankshaft pulley and the seal and ripped the seal. I don’t see how this would cause the P06DD code.
Shop says it should be ready by Friday. I hope so.
Wrangler still in the shop. The oil leak has been located at the crankshaft seal. One of the idlers was misaligned causing the belt to split lengthways. The loose split got caught between the crankshaft pulley and the seal and ripped the seal. I don’t see how this would cause the P06DD code.
Shop says it should be ready by Friday. I hope so.
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Torero
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #40
My Jeep is back on the road. The cause for the code P06DD was that the pieces of the crankshaft seal got stuck on the intake of the oil pump restricting the flow. Shop dropped the oil pan and cleaned everything.
I have not approached ProCharger on this matter. The shop did talk to them and showed that they had installed an idler wrong that eventually caused the whole mess.
I have not approached ProCharger on this matter. The shop did talk to them and showed that they had installed an idler wrong that eventually caused the whole mess.
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outatime7
Member
- First Name
- Alex
- Joined
- May 25, 2019
- Threads
- 2
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- 5
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- 1
- Location
- Walnut Creek, CA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 JL Rubicon 2door
Looks like there are a number of folks that have installed the RIPP supercharger or Prodigy Turbo Kit at this point, and I've seen some before and after dyno charts, but I'm really eager for some actual 0-60 and quartermile data (on the same gear otherwise, e.g., wheels, tire size, etc.) so we can actually see what these power bumps are putting down on the road. Seems like for some reason (maybe the drivetrain?) the power upgrades aren't really translating into THAT much of a speed / quickness improvement but I'm hoping to be proven wrong.
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