Custom cargo "security" enclosure for under $100

[Shots]

I've looked at the two commercially available cargo enclosures and neither seemed like a good choice. The Tuffy enclosure is the "affordable" option at $400, but you can't fit the freedom panels in it. The Slipstream cover provides available storage to the entire cargo area, but double the price at $800. Also a concern to me is that it sits on top of the rails creating a potential air/moisture gap where it stops short of full coverage. This also makes me wonder what kind of angle is ultimately created with the hardtop when mounting over such a configuration. Not concerns I want to have for $800.

So I made my own enclosure.

Here's the build:

First I bent up some brackets that secure under the bolts used for the cargo tie downs. I bolted the brackets to plywood panels that were made to fit the sides of the cargo area. The sides were fitted with a rail to secure the top panels.

Here's a look at the rough panels. The two side panels are on the right and center of the frame. The front wall, which is hinged to allow easy access to the entire cargo area is on the left side of the frame. The two top panels can be seen leaning against the bandsaw.

Everything was test fit, and the freedom panel was verified to fit. A lip on the front cover panel overlaps the front wall to prevent it from hinging down when the top is locked in place.

All the panels were painted black, wrapped in carpet and reinstalled. The front wall hinges down so you can still haul longer items. FWIW, I hauled a stove in the back of my Jeep with these panels in place.

Here's a look at the front of the enclosure with the seats down. The side panels extend beyond the front wall and top covers about 1/2" to prevent a would be thief from trying to pry the top up or wall open.

Here's the driver side panel, which also has a cut out for the power outlet. This also gives a good look at the toggle clamps used to secure the cover panels.

Here's the passenger side panel showing the cutout for the sub, and tailgate hinge. Just ignore that unclamped latch, I got a bit distracted with taking photos and forgot to latch it. Oops.

And one last photo to show the enclosure as it would look if you open the tailgate and rear glass.

In the end I've got roughly $60 into the project. $20 for a 1/2" sheet of plywood, $20 for carpet, $5 for carpet adhesive, $5 for hinges/clamps/fasteners and $10 for black paint.

So what do you all think?

View attachment 140807

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[Shots]

2 more photos, that I forgot to add yesterday.

A view with the tailgate open and glass closed.

A view of the enclosure with the tailgate closed and glass open. This would obviously be what it looks like with the hardtop removed from the Jeep, and my main reason for making it.

 

[Robertrinaustin]

Looks really good. Thanks for sharing. Gives me some new ideas.

 

[Shots]

Thanks, glad you like it.
I'm kinda thinking I should have used darker carpet. The light gray kinda matches the Billet Silver, but not the interior of the Jeep. I was trying to keep the inside of it from being too dark. I may reupholster it with a black or charcoal gray, and wire up a light strip under the rail.

 

[Yeeper]

Thanks, glad you like it.
I'm kinda thinking I should have used darker carpet. The light gray kinda matches the Billet Silver, but not the interior of the Jeep. I was trying to keep the inside of it from being too dark. I may reupholster it with a black or charcoal gray, and wire up a light strip under the rail.

I think you did a great job, but I agree with the color. My first thought was “hmmm why is it a lighter gray?” Good work though! Wish I was handy like that!

 

[Shots]

Thanks.
Yeah, I had this carpet left over from when I made the hoist for the hardtop, and thought it would be a good way to keep it from being too dark. If I had gone out specifically to buy material I was going to use marine vinyl, or charcoal carpet.
Now that I've used it a bit, I like that it doesn't make the enclosed area completely dark, but the mismatch kinda bugs me. I think I'm going try to dye the "exterior" surfaces of the panels, and keep the enclosed surfaces lighter. If I screw that up, I'll just replace the carpet with the darker material. I'm also still kicking around the idea of adding an LED strip under the rail(s) and making them darker all around.
I'll keep the thread updated as revisions are made.

 

[Zazoh]

How bout sound? Does this muffle the Sub in any way, more bass?

 

[Shots]

I actually wondered about that when I was making it. To the point that I considered adding "vents" or something to the front wall and/or cover panels to help the sound. I'm no audiophile, but it doesn't sound muffled to me at all. I'm assuming that's because most of the audio comes from the other speakers, and the sub just does the deep base?
I haven't cranked it up to test how it sounds loud, but for normal listening it seems the same. I'll play with the radio a bit and let you know how it sounds turned up.

 

[Kenny]

Great job. Now if I just had a saw, wood, and some basic skills

Like it better than the commercial units.

 

[Shots]

Ha ha, it wasn't too difficult, so not a lot of skill required. However, the saw and wood are kind of a prerequisite.

Thanks, BTW. I like it better than the commercial units too, but I'm obviously biased. I had every intention of simply buying one, but couldn't get past the idea of having issues with them after paying so much. I'm glad I decided to make my own, because now I've got an enclosure that fits the freedom panels, doesn't create a gap/angle on the hard top, and cost a lot less. I'm really glad I decided to make one instead of compromising on a commercial unit.

 

[Shots]

How bout sound? Does this muffle the Sub in any way, more bass?

Just following up on this. I finally took the time to play with the radio a bit, comparing the sound with the box open/closed. I don't really hear a difference in either configuration. The sound isn't muffled at all, and the bass is still heavy and deep.

 

[Zazoh]

Just following up on this. I finally took the time to play with the radio a bit, comparing the sound with the box open/closed. I don't really hear a difference in either configuration. The sound isn't muffled at all, and the bass is still heavy and deep.

Awesome. Thanks for the update.

 

[Kingpre]

Any chance you have the dimensions on this? I would like to try this. I think it looks amazing. My biggest concern would be cutting the side walls.

 

[Shots]

I didn't draft it or anything so no detailed dimensions. It was kind of a design on the fly type thing. I can take whatever measurements you need though. Any specifics you're looking for?

Also, the side panels were definitely the most challenging part. Not unreasonable, or anything that should scare you away from making one. All the in/out was trimming a little here and a little there to get the best possible fit. You could save a lot of that by cutting slightly heavier around the sub and hump on the driver side floor/wall. That is assuming you don't mind a little gap to save some time and effort. I was being picky and wanted it to fit as close as possible so I kept trimming a little at a time to get a snug fit.

If I were building one again, I'd probably change the top panels a bit. I'd make the front panel cover slightly more area than the back one, instead of making them each cover half the cargo area. Then I'd attach a hinge between the two so the rear panel folds on top of the front panel. I designed it so I can have either the front or rear panel removed for a tall item. After using it for a while now, I've found that I don't take the front panel off by itself so that ability is kinda pointless. I think the convenience of having both panels install/remove as a single unit may be a better option than the independently removable panels.
FWIW, you can't hing the back on top of the front with them evenly sized due to the angle of the seat. You technically can do it if you leaned the seats up first but that's inconvenient. I think making the front panel 2 or 3 inches bigger would probably be enough to allow the rear panel to fold up without hitting the seat. Just brainstorming here. Maybe I'll make a hinged top for a 2.0 version this summer.

 

[JonW]

Great build! One thought I had on the lower back panel (behind the seats) - What about attaching a turnbuckle type tensioner to the kids latch/tether points of the seats to secure them from folding forward. You could probably have the sidewalls up tight to the seats with no gap and skip the back panel altogether.

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