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Knock off the Lies: Why Buying Quality LED Lights Matters

BajaDesigns

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Knock off the Lies: Why Buying Quality LED Lights Matters


"Why spend so much for lights when I can get them cheaper without the name brand?"

"This light bar on Amazon has way more lumens and costs half as much - what gives?"

"I can get 100 lights for $10 each on Alibaba you guys are robbing customers with your margins!"


Not All Lumens Are Created Equal - Especially When Others Are Lying


In a multi-part series, we will be breaking down what separates Baja Designs from the imitators, fakes, and clones. Check back often for updates!

Video:


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PART 2 - BUILD QUALITY

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BajaDesigns

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PART 2 - BUILD QUALITY


We cover Build Quality in Part 2 on Knock off the Lies: Why Buying Quality LEDs Matters.
CLICK HERE



HOUSING SEAL
O-RING VS. SILICONE

o-ringsealedlens.jpg

O-Ring Sealed

Serviceable:
Our uService Replaceable Lenses & Optics provide a unique experience by providing accident protection and full control of your beam pattern. Change the pattern, or replace a damaged lens from the occasional trail carnage, without voiding your warranty!

Combats Shrinkage and Expansion:
The polymer used in our O-ring allows for variance in compression and temperature. As your lights experience changes in heat and pressure, the components will expand and retract in small increments. We take these variances into account when designing our O-rings, which helps to ensure a strong and consistent seal, even under the harshest of conditions. All of our lights are MIL-810G, IK10, and IP69K certified.

SiliconeSealed.jpg

Silicone Glue Sealed

Permanent:
When dealing with silicone glue, there is no turning back. If your lens becomes damaged, you are stuck purchasing an entirely new light. If your windshield cracks, you wouldn't throw away or sell the vehicle, would you? You shouldn't have to do that with your lights either. Yet, with our competitor's products, you are stuck buying a new light if you want to change the initial pattern or repair any inevitable damage that may occur.

Prone to Dry Rot and Leaks:
Not only is silicone glue more susceptible to dry rot, shrinkage and cracking, but as silicone dries, it becomes static, losing its ability to rebound. When your light faces changes in pressure or temperature, the silicone seal will remain in the same form. This can often times lead to an improper seal around the lens.

Even when correct amounts are applied from the factory, silicone glue is more prone to imperfections than a pre-formed O-ring. Very commonly, air bubbles will form within the glue, creating an easy leak path for moisture to enter.

CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE



LIGHT EMITTING DIODE (LED)
TOP BIN LED VS. GENERIC

CompetitorSpot%20VS%20SquadronSpot.gif


Top Bin LED:

5000 Kelvin:
This color temperature mimics the sun during a clear afternoon. The human eye has evolved to prefer the whiteness of 5000k light over higher color temperatures. Using lights in this color range grants you better ability to recognize variations in terrain. This improves the perceived distance and performance of your lights, meaning less overall light is required

Genuine Cree LEDs:
Our use of LEDs from reputable manufacturers translates to improved performance and reliability. The consistent nature of components sourced from reputable companies ensures proper fitment, electrical function, and confidence in your lights.

Generic LEDs

6000+ Kelvin:
The vast majority of our competition uses LEDs in the 6000+ Kelvin range. Temperatures in this range appear slightly blue, rather than white. This color temperature is detrimental to your eye's ability to recognize terrain. Blue light is the most difficult color for the eye to react to. It will actually fatigue your eyes as they constantly work to adjust to terrain variations. Blue light will often seem brighter, though the reality is that the color is just more harsh on the eyes.

Knockoff LEDs:
While certainly not every other offroad lighting manufacturer uses counterfeit LEDs, many do. These companies will mimic the claimed specs of genuine LEDs from reputable companies. These LEDs tend to be built with little quality control and inferior materials, which leads to inconsistent reliability and performance.

CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE



REFLECTOR
IN-HOUSE DESIGN VS. RAPIDLY MANUFACTURED

XLReflector.gif

In-House Design

In-House Design:
All Baja Designs reflectors are designed in-house by our engineering team. A challenging process that typically takes over a year from design to production. Each design is vetted through 3D scanning and computer simulations before being extensively tested in the field before production.

Proprietary Coating:
Our reflectors are all produced using a proprietary coating sequence that varies from typical coating/vacuum metalizing processes. This process results in higher reflectivity than traditional coating methods.

High Standards of Quality Control:
Although we use top-tier suppliers that coat our reflectors in advanced clean rooms, we still have a very high rejection rate for the components we receive. Every reflector is individually inspected for contaminants and imperfections.

All of these processes result in optics that fall into our standards of ClearView optical technology, ensuring you get all the light, right where you need it.

CompetitorReflectors.gif

Rapidly Manufactured

Rapidly Manufactured:
Many of the smaller, competing manufacturers aim for rapid turnover, and will forgo extensive design and testing of their own (or sometimes re-purposed) reflectors. They will often use existing reflector designs from products that typically are not recommended for automotive applications, resulting in patterns that are not optimal for driving or riding.

Standard Coating:
The majority of manufacturers use a standard vacuum metalizing process which adds a step intended to cover defects and blemishes. Though it will often hide pitting and bubbling, it will also cause a hazing effect that diminishes the reflective properties and usable light output. The animated GIF above shows just how drastic this hazing effect can be.

Less Stringent Quality Control:
Pitting, bubbling, and contaminants on the coating are some of the most typical flaws that users will experience with lower quality products. Despite the massive setbacks in performance, other manufacturers often will often build with the flawed reflectors in order to avoid production setbacks. These imperfections and contaminants can be seen right out of the box, even by the average consumer.

CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE



CIRCUIT BOARD FASTENING
THERMAL GAP PAD VS. SCREWED/GLUED DIRECTLY TO HOUSING

gappadsquadron.jpg

Thermal Gap Pad

Thermal Gap Pad
Use of a thermal gap pad ensures proper heat dissipation, with the goal of keeping your LEDs running cooler. The gap pad allows for 100% of the circuit board to be in contact with the housing, allowing heat to be transferred away from the LED and circuit board, and into the housing. Another benefit is the reduction of shock experienced with the gap pad. This reduction decreases the likelihood of screws backing out, or potential vibration damage.


GluedBoard.jpg

Screwed/Glued Directly To Housing

Screwed/Glued Directly to Housing
When securing a circuit board directly to the housing, the biggest risk is the likelihood that the circuit board will begin to warp as temperatures rise. Often times, too few screws are used. The sections near the screw will likely stay in contact with the housing, however, the edges will begin to lose contact as warping occurs. As thermal interface between the housing and circuit board decreases, so does the ability to transfer heat. The circuit board begins to float, retaining all of the heat within itself and the LED. This can very quickly cause a 30-50% efficiency loss.
In addition, with no secondary means to secure the board, and often a lack of use of thread lock, it is common for screws to back out of the board - causing immediate failure.



POWER CORD
PROPRIETARY MOISTUREBLOCK CORD VS. GENERIC CORD

Mositureblock3.jpg


Proprietary MoistureBlock Cord

Prevents Moisture Intake:
This proprietary designs prevents moisture from wicking its way through the cord and into the housings. This technology allows users to remove our standard WeatherPack connector and replace it with the connector of their choosing, without risk of damage or voiding of their warranty. Read more about MoistureBlock here.

UL Listed Wire:
Simply put, UL listed wire is regulated and controlled to ensure consistency and reliability. We use UL listed wire to prevent voltage loss, allowing the light to run at higher voltages and lower amperages. The result is a cooler and more efficient wiring harness.

Serviceable:
Along with many other components on Baja Designs products, the power cords are serviceable. If you get carried away and chop off too much cord, or have a damaging snag, just send the light back and we will repair it at a nominal cost.

EpoxiedPowerCord.jpg


Generic Cord

Prone to Moisture Wicking:
Aside from a faulty lens seal, the most common way that moisture enters a light is through the power cord. As moisture settles around the connector, heat and evaporation allow moisture to creep up the cord, into the housing.

Generic Wire:
Wiring is expensive. An easy way to keep costs down is to use generic wiring designed for less demanding applications. Without regulation, this type of material can leave your wiring at risk for hot spots and voltage loss, which can be dangerous to you lights and vehicle.

Permanent:
Epoxy is about as permanent as things get. It is also the choice of many manufacturers when it comes to securing power cords. Contrary to the serviceable nature of our cords, if you experience damage or failure with one of these cords, you're looking at buying an entirely new light.
 

nerubi

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Nice write up and many valid points but also paying very high cost for lighting isn't wise. If it is a matter of quality and ability I would buy a G-Wagen instead of a Jeep but that is a waste of my money. Plus don't like the shape of the lights.
 

lightsout

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Tell us then why is your LED fixtures cost per Lumen so much more expensive than most of the High End US manufactured Commercial outdoor LED lighting? Additionally you are barely over 100 Lumens per watt (LPW) that is very low performance these days and often the sign of older gen technology. We both know one of the reasons for 6000K is it generally has better performance specs, additionally 6000K is often used for color and detailed product grading for many industries. 6000K is not any more difficult for the human eye to work under in fact there are parts of the day that natural light is at 6000+ Kelvin, the human eye is conditioned naturally for 6000K. With that said I do agree that 5000K is more appealing, most people given the choice would prefer 4000K if seen side by side especially considering that color rendering between all of these is extremely close.

Look I am not trying to trash you or your product however your story line is here is hypocritical, while there are quality differences when compared to the low end lighting products you are priced way above other mid to high quality LED fixtures.

You should be more careful not to paint all your competition with such a broad brush when your cost/Value is at the opposite end of absurd. For example you Lightbar at 12K lumens 108W (115LPW) is at $3.97 per watt that is rediculous compared to any LED standard today. Some of the highest end US manufactured commercial outdoor Sports lighting designed for hurricane zones does not even come close to $4 per watt.

My point is there are also great products at 1/2 the price of yours that will service the end user just as well....
 

2Wheel-Lee

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Straight up truth. A year ago, I bought some of the cheap LED pods off Amazon - the exact ones shown above. These are everywhere marketed under dozens of names. I intended on using them as backup lights. I knew they were junk, so my expectations were already low. It wasn't even a couple months and they were constantly had condensation. And I'm in Southern California with no rain at the time. The most water they saw was if I ever washed the truck (maybe once during that time?). It wasn't long after that, the chrome started turning black. And shortly thereafter, the individual LEDs started failing. Within 6 months or so, one of the pods had only 4 of the 6 LEDs working and the other had 3 of the 6. My expectations were low, but not this low.

I'll have to say that for the most part, you get what you pay for. Sure, not everyone needs lighting and quality of $1,000+ light bars, but if you need ones you can count on, it's worth spending the money. Otherwise, that $300 bar may be junk after a short while - but if it suits your needs, so be it. My $12 lights did suit my needs, but they need to be replaced. But...$12 a year for new lights isn't bad compared to the cost of a good light.
 

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lightsout

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I own a commercial LED lighting company we also design LED fixtures we do not do 12V systems though but the principles are the same. I do in part agree that much of the real low end stuff is crap, there are some mid rang LED that are good or likely as good (for 95% of us) as Baja for much less. For example that 100W Light bar that Baja has for $430 I bought a similar one from Rough country for $199 with a 5 Year warranty from Rough Country who is a well know US Jeep parts company. The problem is who knows what you are getting these days when everything originates in China (including Baja LED components as they likely just build the housings here). So as you look just make sure who ever you buy from will be accountable in the event you have warranty. Warranty also tells a lot about the product whereas Rough Country also has a 5 Years. At the very least accept no less than 3 year warranty backed by a known US company.

There is another school of though, this technology is changing fast also cost will be coming down. Aux LED lighting on our rigs realistically are rarely used since you cannot drive the roads with them ON, for myself they are also just an Aesthetic feature as well. Most people will not have theirs ON more than 50 hours per year, Myself maybe 10 hours a year. With that said.I would also not be afraid to buy cheap for now considering that I will have little burn time so buying a product that has decent reviews for a 1/4 the cost of say the Baja those may very well service you just fine. And if they do fail in a year or two oh well they were cheap just replace them or if you have a good warranty it should be a no cost fix.

The main thing to look for will be how well they are sealed (which Baja does a great job of that as do others at far less cost).

Keep in mind quite often the high over priced stuff also have future warranty cost built into it.

Do not get me wrong it appears Baja builds a great product however the core of their product (Cree Chips and drivers) are outsourced like everyone else. Just because you drop the name Cree (the Chip manufacture) means nothing in terms of reliability as there are too many other factors that determine that. Besides LED chips are not the weak ling of LED systems it is the driver and the fixture body in the case of any exterior lighting product.
 
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BajaDesigns

BajaDesigns

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Tell us then why is your LED fixtures cost per Lumen so much more expensive than most of the High End US manufactured Commercial outdoor LED lighting? Additionally you are barely over 100 Lumens per watt (LPW) that is very low performance these days and often the sign of older gen technology. We both know one of the reasons for 6000K is it generally has better performance specs, additionally 6000K is often used for color and detailed product grading for many industries. 6000K is not any more difficult for the human eye to work under in fact there are parts of the day that natural light is at 6000+ Kelvin, the human eye is conditioned naturally for 6000K. With that said I do agree that 5000K is more appealing, most people given the choice would prefer 4000K if seen side by side especially considering that color rendering between all of these is extremely close.

Look I am not trying to trash you or your product however your story line is here is hypocritical, while there are quality differences when compared to the low end lighting products you are priced way above other mid to high quality LED fixtures.

You should be more careful not to paint all your competition with such a broad brush when your cost/Value is at the opposite end of absurd. For example you Lightbar at 12K lumens 108W (115LPW) is at $3.97 per watt that is rediculous compared to any LED standard today. Some of the highest end US manufactured commercial outdoor Sports lighting designed for hurricane zones does not even come close to $4 per watt.

My point is there are also great products at 1/2 the price of yours that will service the end user just as well....
I own a commercial LED lighting company we also design LED fixtures we do not do 12V systems though but the principles are the same. I do in part agree that much of the real low end stuff is crap, there are some mid rang LED that are good or likely as good (for 95% of us) as Baja for much less. For example that 100W Light bar that Baja has for $430 I bought a similar one from Rough country for $199 with a 5 Year warranty from Rough Country who is a well know US Jeep parts company. The problem is who knows what you are getting these days when everything originates in China (including Baja LED components as they likely just build the housings here). So as you look just make sure who ever you buy from will be accountable in the event you have warranty. Warranty also tells a lot about the product whereas Rough Country also has a 5 Years. At the very least accept no less than 3 year warranty backed by a known US company.

There is another school of though, this technology is changing fast also cost will be coming down. Aux LED lighting on our rigs realistically are rarely used since you cannot drive the roads with them ON, for myself they are also just an Aesthetic feature as well. Most people will not have theirs ON more than 50 hours per year, Myself maybe 10 hours a year. With that said.I would also not be afraid to buy cheap for now considering that I will have little burn time so buying a product that has decent reviews for a 1/4 the cost of say the Baja those may very well service you just fine. And if they do fail in a year or two oh well they were cheap just replace them or if you have a good warranty it should be a no cost fix.

The main thing to look for will be how well they are sealed (which Baja does a great job of that as do others at far less cost).

Keep in mind quite often the high over priced stuff also have future warranty cost built into it.

Do not get me wrong it appears Baja builds a great product however the core of their product (Cree Chips and drivers) are outsourced like everyone else. Just because you drop the name Cree (the Chip manufacture) means nothing in terms of reliability as there are too many other factors that determine that. Besides LED chips are not the weak ling of LED systems it is the driver and the fixture body in the case of any exterior lighting product.
Thank You for posting up! It’s very difficult to compare household lighting to our LED lights. Our lights are designed to handle impacts, vibration, pressure changes, etc versus a completely stationary light that is designed to be in mostly controlled environments. You can navigate through the harshest roads of Baja with our lights and never have an issue, I would be afraid of doing that with the household options. We designed these to handle lots of abuse while functioning at 100% performance.

The lower temperature chips are much more difficult for quality manufacturers to produce and as such are priced higher and harder to get in large quantities. 5000k offers a great blend of the visibility and detail provided in higher temperatures, while also being low stress on the eye. A feature that is absolutely necessary for our customers that depend on their lights on the race course, recreational trail, or war zone and cannot risk even a small chance of eye fatigue.

We do offer Amber Lenses for customers that want to bring the temperature warmer than 5000k (closer to 4000k when paired with white light). Customers often pair Amber Lenses with white for a nice blend of colors

Baja Designs
www.bajadesigns.com
 
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lightsout

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Thank You for posting up! It’s very difficult to compare household lighting to our LED lights. Our lights are designed to handle impacts, vibration, pressure changes, etc versus a completely stationary light that is designed to be in mostly controlled environments. You can navigate through the harshest roads of Baja with our lights and never have an issue, I would be afraid of doing that with the household options. We designed these to handle lots of abuse while functioning at 100% performance.

The lower temperature chips are much more difficult for quality manufacturers to produce and as such are priced higher and harder to get in large quantities. 5000k offers a great blend of the visibility and detail provided in higher temperatures, while also being low stress on the eye. A feature that is absolutely necessary for our customers that depend on their lights on the race course, recreational trail, or war zone and cannot risk even a small chance of eye fatigue.

We do offer Amber Lenses for customers that want to bring the temperature warmer than 5000k (closer to 4000k). Customers often pair Amber Lenses with white for a nice blend of colors

Baja Designs
www.bajadesigns.com

I appreciate your response however I was not comparing to household LED lighting, I was comparing to LED lighting design for High impact as well as Hurricane environments which I have extensive experience with. I agree with 5000K, for task lighting however 4000K for driving is my preference. Regardless 5000K does not justify significant added cost, whereas 95% of the commercial LED industry there is NO added cost for 5000K. I do agree that 12V is a little behind, which is why I recommend that most wait a year or two and let the automotive LED industry mature, before considering any high end LED products, there are too many quality mid priced LED available.

My guess that 90% of the people that buy light bars, cubes or rounds for their Wrangler are buying mostly for aesthetics anyway and will have them on for maybe a few hours per year. At least that is the feedback from those that IM me on this forum regarding LED lighting. That is also my use estimation as well.

Again I am sure you make a great product and stand behind it, however your cost per lumens are extreme, where there are many at or near 1/2 the cost of Baja that will service and last the end-user just as well as yours.

If I was running the Baja 1000 at night I would certainly be a customer.

BTW, amber is no where close to 4000K, more like HPS (High Pressure Sodium) which is around 2700K-3000K
 

jruss

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Good write up. I perused your website earlier and found your price points were similar to other high end led lights so there’s no shocker for me.
I think a lot of people underestimate the constant hell vehicles and vehicle accessories are enduring just driving down the road.
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