Rock Krawler 2.5?

[bumpit]

Gotcha, thanks for the spring info too, that was my biggest complaint wheeling the jl stock for first time. It was way too bouncy and soft for my liking so glad to hear the springs will firm it up a bit!

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[Rock Krawler Suspension]

I wanted to give the springs a fair comparison to stock. They are slightly stiffer than my stock springs, I would say they are 10-20% stiffer.

We posted spring rates on this forum a while back, we're about 8 lbs heavier than stock, which increases spring stability while being a longer coil.

 

[California Guy]

Gotcha, thanks for the spring info too, that was my biggest complaint wheeling the jl stock for first time. It was way too bouncy and soft for my liking so glad to hear the springs will firm it up a bit!

No worries! The suspension is great! I love that they are a tad bit stiffer. I ran another company’s suspension on my jk and it was extremely stiff. I wasn’t happy with it. The RK feels great. I might end up keeping the stock shocks until they start leaking.

 

[California Guy]

We posted spring rates on this forum a while back, we're about 8 lbs heavier than stock, which increases spring stability while being a longer coil.

I wasn’t aware that you guys had posted the rates. Anyhow, I wasn’t complaining. Just giving my opinion. I’m happy with the springs, the only thing I’m on the fence about is the arms. They are hard to crank down and when I do get them tight, the ball joint shifts so that it’s not straight. I’ve been struggling with this for a week now. There’s gotta be a better way to crank these down. Perhaps a jig? Or a “u” shaped piece of metal that can be dropped in between the swivel and the vise to keep it straight while they get cranked down?

 

[stil2low]

I wasn’t aware that you guys had posted the rates. Anyhow, I wasn’t complaining. Just giving my opinion. I’m happy with the springs, the only thing I’m on the fence about is the arms. They are hard to crank down and when I do get them tight, the ball joint shifts so that it’s not straight. I’ve been struggling with this for a week now. There’s gotta be a better way to crank these down. Perhaps a jig? Or a “u” shaped piece of metal that can be dropped in between the swivel and the vise to keep it straight while they get cranked down?

When I recheck the jamb nuts on my JK’s RK arms I use an adjustable in between the side of the spherical end and pocket. Helps keep them from rotating when cranking the nut down

 

[ChattVol]

How long are the shocks in your kit @California Guy? I was going to skip the hole and just use a 90° fitting and still might unless I run into the same deal.

How do you like the tt shock?

My RK 2.5" lift that came with TT shocks are part # RRD04003 and RRD04004. They claim the lengths are :

Front- 11.8" Travel RRD Spec Twin Tube Front Shocks (Collapsed Length: 16.9") should put extended length at 28.7"

Rear- 13.7" Travel RRD Spec Twin Tube Rear Shocks (Collapsed Length: 18.4") should put extended length at 32.1"

I have 2 bumpstops in front and 3 in rear and with a forklift have been able to compress the front shocks almost all the way with bumpstop fully compressing the round white upper pad. When I lift the rear tire up to 32", I've only been able to compress the upper pad 30% or so and front tire lifts. The rear shock is about 4" away from bottoming out...I checked the tire and it's not touching the inner fender or sway bar. I wonder why it wont flex up more like the front and tuck? @River City Offroad @Rock Krawler Suspension
Here's the front tucking properly and compressing

Here's the rear that should tuck further

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Matt, since you have chosen to run springs that didn't come with the kit, there's too many variables to make an accurate assessment. If you can provide the spring rates, we can make a more accurate call. My hunch would be one of 2 things, one would be that the bushings in the arms are bound up, possibly that they weren't relaxed when springs were changed and they their bind is adding to the effective spring rate. The other would be that the rate of the springs you are running is simply too high for a lightweight JL to fully compress.

 

[Midwest22]

Today I discovered that the lock nut on my front RK track bar was loose so I took it off and tightened it. While doing this I noticed that the bar is pressed up against the bracket on the frame. Is this normal? It doesn’t seem like it.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Today I discovered that the lock nut on my front RK track bar was loose so I took it off and tightened it. While doing this I noticed that the bar is pressed up against the bracket on the frame. Is this normal? It doesn’t seem like it.

Which system and which lift height are you on? We see this from time to time and the answers we have found so far is that the arms are adjusted too long, pushing the axle forward. verify the length on the control arms, particularly the lowers and assess from there.

 

[Midwest22]

Which system and which lift height are you on? We see this from time to time and the answers we have found so far is that the arms are adjusted too long, pushing the axle forward. verify the length on the control arms, particularly the lowers and assess from there.

Normally I'd say thats a plausible answer BUT if you look at that picture again you will see that the bushing is parallel with the bracket. Actually, in this and other photos, it appears that its being pushed a hair the other way. If the axle were pushed too far forward then it stands to reason that the joint would be flexed in that direction, correct? To me it looks like the joint was welded a bit off center. Combine this with the tolerances we have to work with on the Jeep, which all seem to be different, and you get a recipe for rubbing.

Sorry for not listing the other components. The LCAs are your RK X-Factor and I have them set to give me around 6.5 degrees of caster angle so as to correct the wandering steering (which it does). I'm running stock upper control arms. with a 2" lift from Dynatrac (springs, Fox shocks and longer swaybar links).

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Normally I'd say thats a plausible answer BUT if you look at that picture again you will see that the bushing is parallel with the bracket. Actually, in this and other photos, it appears that its being pushed a hair the other way. If the axle were pushed too far forward then it stands to reason that the joint would be flexed in that direction, correct? To me it looks like the joint was welded a bit off center. Combine this with the tolerances we have to work with on the Jeep, which all seem to be different, and you get a recipe for rubbing.

Sorry for not listing the other components. The LCAs are your RK X-Factor and I have them set to give me around 6.5 degrees of caster angle so as to correct the wandering steering (which it does). I'm running stock upper control arms. with a 2" lift from Dynatrac (springs, Fox shocks and longer swaybar links).

Shoot me a PM, we'll get you taken care of.

 

[SHYUperman]

Installed the RK 2.5" XFactor kit with Falcon 2.1s over the weekend. Overall a pretty straight forward install. Ride is a little harsher than stock, but still very comfortable. Dropped it off this morning to get my tires/wheels mounted and aligned.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Installed the RK 2.5" XFactor kit with Falcon 2.1s over the weekend. Overall a pretty straight forward install. Ride is a little harsher than stock, but still very comfortable. Dropped it off this morning to get my tires/wheels mounted and aligned.

Looks good, we have heard a few times that paired with the 2.1's we are rather firm. Several of those customers have switched to 3.3's and couldn't be happier. You can fine tune with tire pressure, what are you currently running for pressure in those tires and what load range are they?

 

[SHYUperman]

Looks good, we have heard a few times that paired with the 2.1's we are rather firm. Several of those customers have switched to 3.3's and couldn't be happier. You can fine tune with tire pressure, what are you currently running for pressure in those tires and what load range are they?

D load and currently around 28 psi. I still need to do the chalk test on the tires. What are your suggestions?

Can I also get the jam nut sizes for the upper and lower control arms? I want to see if I can buy wrenches in those sizes.

Thanks

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Wrench sizes:
Lower arms: 1 7/8"
Upper arms and track bars: 1 5/16"

On a D load range (I'm guessing 37x12.50) Ridge Grappler, I'd be around 26 front 24 rear and chalk test, should be very close. Plus those are some of my personal favorite tires on the planet.

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