Holy... Dual Rigid Side Shooter Spots on A-Pillar

[traviswalker007]

Just got my two pairs of Rigid D-SS Pro spots (model #262213) and got them mounted up on the Artec Industries dual a pillar mount (http://www.artecindustries.com/JL_Single_LED_Apillar). Install was super easy, probably took about 90 minutes but only because I was meticulous about the wiring.

Originally I had intended to do a mix of spot + driving on each side to get better coverage. Getting the lights was a huge PITA, had one Amazon vendor no-ship a set, and another vendor send the wrong lights, so it took 4 orders to get the 2 pair of lights and ended up getting two pairs of spots once the dust settled.

I just went out and found some completely dark open stretches of road, and holy hell, I was blown away.

Not only do 4 forward facing spots throw a beam a long way, the coverage is blanketing. I expected more of a gap in the short range, but it is pretty much daylight from ten feet in front of the bumper to as far as you can see with no hot spots. And with two sets of side shooters, that is 6 side facing led's on each side, it is complete daylight from the front quarterpanel out on each side.

EDIT: Pics attached of both side shooter and front facing. Disclosure, I adjusted the exposure after the fact to compensate for my iphone camera light meter. The halogens are so dim, the iphone turns the light sensitivity way up, and the Rigid were so bright it dials it way back. These pics after the slight adjustment represent very accurately what I was seeing with my eyes.

One thing to note, the lights are rated at 3.36 amps so I took a chance putting all 4 of them on the 15a aux switch, but it blew the fuse pretty quickly, so I swapped it over to the 40a Aux 1 and have had no problems.

Also, make sure you are buying them in pairs. Some of the vendors on Amazon sell two, but it is two individual
lights which have two led side shooters on both sides of each light. The true pairs come as a left and a right with three led side shooters just on one side of each light.

The part numbers for pairs are 262113 (flood), 262213 (spot) and 262313 (driving). Singles will be 262113 (driving). The same part numbers starting in 8 indicate white housings instead of black.

Driver's side side shooters

Stock halogen low beams + fogs

Rigid cubes on (with headlights and fogs, but honestly I turned my headlights on and off a couple times and you couldn't even tell if they were on or not when the LEDs were on)

Nice write up, this is what im going to do as well!!

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[Chocolate Thunder]

Just so you guys know, rigid is moving manufacturing to Mexico this year!! so I would expect alott of poor packaging and quality issues from here on out. I work for a direct supplier to Rigid so the info is legit

Why? I factory ordered a 2000 Dodge Ram. They were manufactured in a plant on Mexico and a plant in Michigan. A QC engineer told me that the tolerances and number of defects were consistently better from the Mexico built trucks than the US built trucks. Mine came from Mexico and I had no issues with it in the entire time that I owned it. It certainly had better build quality than the Wranglers coming from Ohio these days.

 

[Texas_Yote]

Just got my two pairs of Rigid D-SS Pro spots (model #262213) and got them mounted up on the Artec Industries dual a pillar mount (http://www.artecindustries.com/JL_Single_LED_Apillar). Install was super easy, probably took about 90 minutes but only because I was meticulous about the wiring.

Originally I had intended to do a mix of spot + driving on each side to get better coverage. Getting the lights was a huge PITA, had one Amazon vendor no-ship a set, and another vendor send the wrong lights, so it took 4 orders to get the 2 pair of lights and ended up getting two pairs of spots once the dust settled.

I just went out and found some completely dark open stretches of road, and holy hell, I was blown away.

Not only do 4 forward facing spots throw a beam a long way, the coverage is blanketing. I expected more of a gap in the short range, but it is pretty much daylight from ten feet in front of the bumper to as far as you can see with no hot spots. And with two sets of side shooters, that is 6 side facing led's on each side, it is complete daylight from the front quarterpanel out on each side.

EDIT: Pics attached of both side shooter and front facing. Disclosure, I adjusted the exposure after the fact to compensate for my iphone camera light meter. The halogens are so dim, the iphone turns the light sensitivity way up, and the Rigid were so bright it dials it way back. These pics after the slight adjustment represent very accurately what I was seeing with my eyes.

One thing to note, the lights are rated at 3.36 amps so I took a chance putting all 4 of them on the 15a aux switch, but it blew the fuse pretty quickly, so I swapped it over to the 40a Aux 1 and have had no problems.

Also, make sure you are buying them in pairs. Some of the vendors on Amazon sell two, but it is two individual
lights which have two led side shooters on both sides of each light. The true pairs come as a left and a right with three led side shooters just on one side of each light.

The part numbers for pairs are 262113 (flood), 262213 (spot) and 262313 (driving). Singles will be 262113 (driving). The same part numbers starting in 8 indicate white housings instead of black.

Driver's side side shooters

Stock halogen low beams + fogs

Rigid cubes on (with headlights and fogs, but honestly I turned my headlights on and off a couple times and you couldn't even tell if they were on or not when the LEDs were on)

I swear we are twins...Same jeep, same cancelling story that happened. Even had a set that was shipped from Amazon that was used... Crazy how similar our stories are... I ended up with SS on the low mount that are floods and the top are DD spots. It is like daylight when they turn on. Used them on some Texas back roads last night and my daughter was shocked at how bright they are!

 

[AnthemAVM]

Thanks for the write up, thinking about going this way.

 

[ally68]

Question for OP I am going to go this route as well love the look of the mount. I think I am going to go one set floods one set spot.
Question on wiring Do you need the inline fuses as well since the switch is fused? and if so did you just run all grounds together then all power together after inline fuses? TY

 

[DToxic]

any issues with hood glare with these setups?

 

[Jaym]

Will you please post a picture of your Jeep from the front and side? Further back. I’m unsure if I like the look of the Artec mounts. I absolutely love the Mopar mounts but they only accommodate for one lamp.

The Artecs look like they have curved edges. I prefer the straight lines of the Mopar...

 

[melendez69]

@Jaym ...Quite a few members have pictures of their rigs with the Artec mounts. I have a set, but I accidentally bent one of the four pieces & decided to go with a Go Rhino side-by-side. The only curvatures are to fit the contours of the hood & A-pillar, unless you're referring to the ends where the bolts are. My only problem with them is that you can't pivot your lights..

Post #7
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/a-pillar-led-cube-light-pattern.18571/#post-474489

Post #17... I like what @AFfiredawg did with them... had them powder-coated, which gives the cubes a floating appearance
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/which-a-pillar-cube-mount.16885/page-2#post-445088

Post #9
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/which-are-the-best-light-cubes.11523/#post-293547

 

[Letsdive64]

Nice! Install was really simple. For the wiring, run everything over to the battery, you will find your aux wires stubbed out there. Trim the black wires and splice them together to an eyelet and attach to the ground point on the engine bay wall near the battery. Cut the reds and splice in the in-line fuses for each pair (note for the passenger side set you will have two wires for that pair but the set coming from the driver side only one. This is because the wiring kit they give you runs about 5 feet before it is spliced into a single wire pair and your passenger side lights are so close to the battery you will cut the wires prior to the join point. This will make sense when you see the wires ). From there you will have two red leads after your inline fuses. Find the bundle of wires for the aux switches between the battery and the outside wall of the engine bay and connect both your red wires to one of the 40a - I think the brown with pink stripe is aux 1. Can’t remember the stripe color but it is def the brown one.

Btw, the way rigid packs their lights inside the box is terrible. Of the three sets I got, every single one had the light pods broken out of the flimsy cardboard cradle and they were just rolling around in the box protected only by a plastic bag. Wtf.

There are 3 wires. I understand what you do with the black and the reds, but what do you do with the third wire?

 

[melendez69]

There are 3 wires. I understand what you do with the black and the reds, but what do you do with the third wire?

I think you're referring to the ground wire.

 

[jfox]

I think you're referring to the ground wire.

Third wire (white) is usually for backlighting or for lighting up a switch if it comes with your wire harness. Tape it off if you have the jeep aux switches.

 

[melendez69]

Third wire (white) is usually for backlighting or for lighting up a switch if it comes with your wire harness. Tape it off if you have the jeep aux switches.

Doh! I didn't even consider the fact that they come with switches... thanks for checking me... that could've been messy.

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

I have a single pair on my A pillars, and I cant say enough good things about them. Excellent throw, color, and dispersion with even diffusion. No hot or dead spots. Id get a set of D-SS driving beams for the bumper too, but they are stupid expensive, and Im already quite satisfied with how the spots alone work with the factory headlights.

That would be my only complaint.....cost. And if they are moving manufacturing to mexico, a lower price point had better be made available to the consumer.

 

[jfox]

Doh! I didn't even consider the fact that they come with switches... thanks for checking me... that could've been messy.

All good... actually replied to the wrong comment....

@Letsdive64 that was supposed to be for you. lol

 

[ToddEichel]

Nice! Install was really simple. For the wiring, run everything over to the battery, you will find your aux wires stubbed out there. Trim the black wires and splice them together to an eyelet and attach to the ground point on the engine bay wall near the battery. Cut the reds and splice in the in-line fuses for each pair (note for the passenger side set you will have two wires for that pair but the set coming from the driver side only one. This is because the wiring kit they give you runs about 5 feet before it is spliced into a single wire pair and your passenger side lights are so close to the battery you will cut the wires prior to the join point. This will make sense when you see the wires ). From there you will have two red leads after your inline fuses. Find the bundle of wires for the aux switches between the battery and the outside wall of the engine bay and connect both your red wires to one of the 40a - I think the brown with pink stripe is aux 1. Can’t remember the stripe color but it is def the brown one.

Btw, the way rigid packs their lights inside the box is terrible. Of the three sets I got, every single one had the light pods broken out of the flimsy cardboard cradle and they were just rolling around in the box protected only by a plastic bag. Wtf.

Hey there, thanks. Just bought the Rigid A Pillar mount, a pair of D-Pro driving and a pair of D-SS Floods. Looking at the wiring harness, the two sides get spliced together, then go to a relay, which then breaks out the three wires (inside a black sheath) to go to the provided switch, and the red/black power with the inline fuse. Do I need any of that, given that the OEM Aux system already has relays and fuses? I would think I can just cut all of that off, and use the red/black after the splice but before the relay to go to the aux/ground connection, correct? Just verifying before I cut the provided harness...

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