Aftermarket JL Lift Kit suspension options master list

[clb616]

Stage 1 implies what is included with the kit. So springs, sway bar extensions, bump stops, etc. the TT is the exact same kit but also comes with shocks.

To go up to stage 2 and beyond or into the X Factor line just come with more components such as track bars and control arms. You can also get those kits with or without the TT shocks.

I get what the TT is now... but there is Series 1 and Series 1- Stage 1. With a big price difference...

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[Karl_in_Chicago]

I get what the TT is now... but there is Series 1 and Series 1- Stage 1. With a big price difference...

Different shocks.

 

[maus92]

Exactly. I’d say slightly nose high if anything. How does that happen? I’m so confused

Could be the camera / lens. The front tire also looks bigger than the rear tire. Also need to make sure the camera itself is level.

 

[clb616]

Different shocks.

Ahhhhhh gotcha... Thanks so much everyone for clarifying.

 

[rlaracue]

I have a 2018 JLU Rubicon and I have narrowed by lift kit choices down to: Teraflex ST2 MetalCloak with six pack shocks, ICON or EVO stage 3/4. I am looking at 2.5 to 3.5 lift for daily driver but weekend mud & rock fun.

I was thinking to take the safe route re: warranty protection and go with the Mopar kit but I have heard mixed things about their coil springs and ride quality.

Thoughts on experiences, value for money and ride quality? And is it worth skipping the Mopar/warranty route and going with another firm?

Dark Horse: Waiting for AEV kit to come out in May 2019.

 

[rlaracue]

Side question on 35x12.5" . I was told by several installers to safely run 35x12.5" esp off road that you should go with a -12 offset. Positive offsets especially the +44 of the stock Rubicon rims could/will cause bump issues.

Two things. 1. Is this true? 2) Has anyone ever confirmed the stock JLU Rubi rims are in fact a +44 offset?

 

[rlaracue]

Yes, here they are.

Mine does not fit in the rear carrier. I just ordered the Rough Country relocation bracket and the Mopar tailgate hinge support.

Beautiful set up. What is the offset on the rims? How do you like the STT Pro's?

 

[BLLFRG]

This is an awesome thread! Of course you all are killing me with the choices lol.

It will be a while before I am ready to get my Jeep and do the lift, but here is what I do know:

I am looking at a 2 door Rubicon.
I want 2-2.5” lift
I want 37x13.5x18 tires

So, looking at Rock Krawler, Dynatrac, Mopar... also want to see what BDS has to offer for the 2 door. Have their 6” kit on my F150 and love it.

Just soo many good options from reading this thread, it’s hard lol. I’m new to Jeeps, which makes it harder. Thanks for all the info so far!

 

[rlaracue]

After some reading and part list comparisons the Rock Krawler 2.5" X-Factor lift with some Falcon 2.1 shocks looks like a great option. A bit spendy but the X-Factor kit is really comprehensive. I would only add a Falcon or Metal Cloak steering stabilizer and maybe a SS tie rod.

I like Metal Cloak as a close second with their 2.5" game changer lift kit with monotube shocks. Don't need the six packs.

If you had a choice between the above suspensions which one would you pick

 

[anotheraznguy]

i ended up going with metalcloak. main reason is minimal maintenance on the joints compared to RK. Also i didnt feel like opening up the control arm mounts to accomodate the zerk

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

That is cool. Please note: RK joints need to be greased every 3-5 months typically. That is the standard service interval. We hope if you have an aftermarket anything under your Jeep you are checking it out once and a while. Especially after off-road trips. So once a while having a service interval forces you to put your head under the vehicle and check things out which is a good thing. Good luck with your build.

 

[Jammer]

Interesting. I’m also running the Warn Zeon 10-S, added a steel front bumper as wellm (worth noting since it came with plastic so it would not have the different springs up front to account for it).

I tried to convince myself that I needed to level it - mostly because back when I was looking at it, almost every lift included a 0.5” level, so I wanted to believe that I needed it.

However, after multiple rounds of photos and measuring with half tanks of gas, full tanks, and on E... my specific Jeep does not seem to need a level.

Or maybe my eyes are off and it does need it? What do you think? Honest opinion appreciated.

This is current state, without my lift installed, and on completely level ground per the Jeep’s EVIC readings. Fully unloaded, no passengers or driver in the vehicle and half a tank of gas.

Man I love that color if it wasn't for white I'd be getting that color I almost got that color

 

[rlaracue]

i ended up going with metalcloak. main reason is minimal maintenance on the joints compared to RK. Also i didnt feel like opening up the control arm mounts to accomodate the zerk

Thanks for the reply!. I don't mind the joint maintenance but I had not thought about the control arm mounts. Something to ponder.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

You can always mount the joint zirc down and add some Artec bolt on skids. Then you would not have to open up the top side.

RK does offer a full lifetime warranty on all joint housings and mechanical components of the joints. Not sure how many others do the same.

 

[rlaracue]

That is cool. Please note: RK joints need to be greased every 3-5 months typically. That is the standard service interval. We hope if you have an aftermarket anything under your Jeep you are checking it out once and a while. Especially after off-road trips. So once a while having a service interval forces you to put your head under the vehicle and check things out which is a good thing. Good luck with your build.

Thanks for sharing.

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