JL / JLU Wrangler will have wheel bolts instead of lugs

[Rubi]

I’ve read, on another forum, where the lug studs will be replaced with bolts. In my opinion this is much better when mounting/rotating the wheels on our Jeeps. The OEM wheels should have hub-centric wheels. Simply jack up the vehicle slightly beyond clearing the tire’s OD, center the wheel on the hub, then rotate to line up the bolt hole spacing.

AEV wheels are manufactured with a hub-centric design. Hopefully the bolt pattern stays the same as the JK’s

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[TTEChris]

I think mounting a 100+lb wheel/tire combo without studs is going to be a pain. My beadlocks with 37s were close to 150lb. I work on a lot of European cars where they only have bolts, and even with the lighter wheels lining them up is a pain. I know mechanics that even use a fake stud threaded into the hub to make thing easier.

 

[theplankeye]

I doubt this is true, but agree it sounds like a pain with large tires.

 

[Rubi]

I think mounting a 100+lb wheel/tire combo without studs is going to be a pain. My beadlocks with 37s were close to 150lb. I work on a lot of European cars where they only have bolts, and even with the lighter wheels lining them up is a pain. I know mechanics that even use a fake stud threaded into the hub to make thing easier.

I’ve owned many VW’s, a MINI; all with bolts. The only problem I’ve had was aligning the threaded hub bolt holes to the wheel mounting holes. Once the wheel is centered on the hub it will stay there and can be rotated into alignment. It also helps to grease the interface between the wheel and the hub.

As I said I have no direct knowledge if this lug bolt/stud design is the real thing.

 

[TTEChris]

I’ve owned many VW’s, a MINI; all with bolts. The only problem I’ve had was aligning the threaded hub bolt holes to the wheel mounting holes. Once the wheel is centered on the hub it will stay there and can be rotated into alignment. It also helps to grease the interface between the wheel and the hub.

As I said I have no direct knowledge if this lug bolt/stud design is the real thing.

I've noticed a lot has to do with the offset and weight of the wheel, as well as the gap in wheels(If you can grab the rotor to spin it while keeping pressure on the wheels.) I don't usually have a problem with the BMW/Mercedes wheels I work with b/c they are lightweight and I can usually get my hand between the spokes to rotate the rotor a tiny bit if its off(I usually do it at eye level so that I can see the holes.) I just can't imagine doing this with the Jeep wheels(Stock yes, but once you get to the bigger/heavier tires where they don't balance themselves on the hub b/c of the offset I see it being a major pain.) I know a few mechanics that I work with that have a special pin that they insert in one hole then put the wheels on. I'm a little younger without back problems so balancing the wheels and rotating it isn't that big of a deal. If they do come with bolts when I upgrade my wheels/tires I will deff. convert back to studs.

 

[The Great Grape Ape]

I think it’s unlikely simply because I see no advantage to FCA in changing the design.

If there was some Wrangler-specific benefit then sure.

I would prefer to see an evolution of a modern full hub mount design rather than bolts.

 

[Rubi]

I think it’s unlikely simply because I see no advantage to FCA in changing the design.

If there was some Wrangler-specific benefit then sure.

I would prefer to see an evolution of a modern full hub mount design rather than bolts.

Do you have an example of “a modern full hub mount design”?

Does anybody know why front locking hubs are no longer made or utilized to completely disengage the front diff? I would think that would give some extra mpg with the reduced drag.

 

[The Great Grape Ape]

Do you have an example of “a modern full hub mount design”?

No, but that’s my point, it needs improvement. If they were to update the design to make it simpler and stronger then that seems like it would be worth changing the support and aftermarket for on something like a Wrangler.

If it had a single central locking nut/ring and then studs that would improve ease of install & replacement, but how would long term wear do. The point being if they are going to change at all, why do it over something with limited benefits versus something truly evolutionary or revolutionary.

Does anybody know why front locking hubs are no longer made or utilized to completely disengage the front diff? I would think that would give some extra mpg with the reduced drag.

Because a lot of the vehicles are now trans-axles, so they can disengage a significant portion of the rear AWD/4WD portion essentially before it even gets to the shaft, so they already save a significant amount without having to get out of the vehicle. Of course it’s different for front engine RWD variants of 4WD, but they remain the minority, and again people aren’t likely to want to save 0.5 MPG by having to get out and manually engage/disengage locking hubs.

 

[The Mad Duck]

I've Worked on my Brothers Dodge Dart. It has those Wonderful Wheel Bolts.
Even With an Aluminum Rims and Small Tires they are A Pain !

 

[JeepinOutfitters]

Does anybody know why front locking hubs are no longer made or utilized to completely disengage the front diff? I would think that would give some extra mpg with the reduced drag.

Cost and convenience. Generally speaking... Drivers are lazy. They want to be able to shift into 4WD "on the fly" without having to get out and lock/unlock hubs and don't really care about serviceability of their vehicles. Sealed, non-serviceable unit-bearing hubs are cheaper and easier for the MFGs to use.

Considering that the vast majority of aftermarket wheels are *NOT* hub-centric, I would think that using bolts instead of studs would be a huge PITA.

 

[MrJeepNut]

Does anybody know why front locking hubs are no longer made or utilized to completely disengage the front diff? I would think that would give some extra mpg with the reduced drag.

In addition to GGA's point about the inconvenience of manual locking hubs, I would also point out that they introduce an extra potential point of failure to the axle assembly, and they are laborious to maintain. Given how good modern bearings are, the MPG difference between locking and non-locking is quite minimal, and definitely not worth the operational and maintenance hassle, IMHO. Although aftermarket manual hubs are still available for TJs, I haven't seen anything for JKs, and I'm willing to bet you won't see anything for the JL.

 

[JeepinOutfitters]

FWIW, TeraFlex has an 8-lug manual hub conversion kit available for the JK. And Spyntec has a manual hub conversion for JKs too, but it converts to 5x5.5 bolt pattern.

 

[Vegas_Sirk]

Lug bolts are annoying. The only thing they are good for is making it easy to run hub centric spacers as there is no need for longer wheels studs, you just simply change the length of the bolts. However with proper offset wheels there is no need for spacers.

 

[rcr1340]

I just watched the Bill Luke video and they changed the wheels on the JL and they are definitely not lug studs. Same as JK

 

[R&R]

In addition to GGA's point about the inconvenience of manual locking hubs, I would also point out that they introduce an extra potential point of failure to the axle assembly, and they are laborious to maintain. Given how good modern bearings are, the MPG difference between locking and non-locking is quite minimal, and definitely not worth the operational and maintenance hassle, IMHO. Although aftermarket manual hubs are still available for TJs, I haven't seen anything for JKs, and I'm willing to bet you won't see anything for the JL.

I was thinking in this day and age when they're trying to get every mile per gallon possible that they wouldn't use locking hubs like they did years ago. But I had a 1980 jeep CJ 7 as well and I think you nailed it it's a maintenance issue. I'm a mechanic by trade and didn't think it was a huge deal but I had those hubs apart fairly regular keeping them clean and lubed. I think I remember reading once where anytime you had them submerged they should be pulled apart and greased. I wouldn't mind if the hubs were still locking today and there are some advantages but I'll go with the way they are

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