Big Bend Ranch SP in December

[cornercanyon]

Planning a trip to Big Bend Ranch State Park in December before Christmas. Hoping to set up a base camp and explore hiking and Jeep trails we haven't tried before in the central part of the 'inside'. Any suggestions and photographs welcome.

Some photos from our last trip to the east 'inside'
Hiking around Solitario

Looking south toward Fresno Canyon

Sunset from near camp in 2019

Sponsored

 

[blnewt]

Sounds like a fun trip, are you going to run that Badge of Honor trail while you're there? I've got Christmas week off without any current plans (wife may have plans that I'm unaware of however). Would be cool to check that area out, and that time of year would seem perfect weather-wise.
Nice photo skills too btw!

 

[cornercanyon]

Sounds like a fun trip, are you going to run that Badge of Honor trail while you're there? I've got Christmas week off without any current plans (wife may have plans that I'm unaware of however). Would be cool to check that area out, and that time of year would seem perfect weather-wise.
Nice photo skills too btw!

I don't think there is a BOH in Big Bend Ranch State Park. There is Black Gap BOH trail in Big Bend National Park. The state park is bigger and lonelier so we prefer it to the national park.

We are headed there the week before Christmas. You should go, too bad our timing is off. Both parks are beautiful that time of year.

Thank you, we are looking forward to going back and finding more cool places and vistas—

 

[cornercanyon]

We got a reservation for mid-December in the central section of the 'inside' park off the graded part of Javelin Road. For this exploratory trip being central on a graded road should make it easy to try a number of Jeep trails and hikes in the central 'inside' section of the state park. Big Bend RANCH SP offers so many opportunities it will be difficult to pick which areas to focus on.

If any one has suggestions, photos or videos please point us in the right direction. Hopefully we will find more great hikes and camping locations for future trips–

 

[cornercanyon]

Planning for this 8 day (14-22 December) adventure in west Texas continues. A mix of hiking and off roading as usual.

One day we'll hike about 10 miles down through upper Arroyo Primero to the Madrid House ruins and return on the loop up to Madrid Falls, the second tallest waterfall in Texas.

Screenshot from Texas Parks and Wildlife video

Another day we'll off road up in the northwestern edge of the park into Cienega Mountains to Chupadero Springs and the ruins using what TPWD calls 'unmaintained' 4wd trails. I haven't found any trail notes from the last 24 months, so not sure what to expect beyond a fun adventure in our JLURXR. Hopefully we can update the trail reports and get some good photos.

8 days of hiking and Jeeping will not be enough in Big Bend Ranch State Park—

 

[wibornz]

Man we are missing each other by just a few weeks. I want to get back to that area. Looking forward to you reporting out when you get back.

 

[cornercanyon]

Man we are missing each other by just a few weeks. I want to get back to that area. Looking forward to you reporting out when you get back.

I know, it would have been great to see you and Carla; and there are some good hikes to pictographs and vistas, too..

It was a wonderful break for me and I'll be posting some drives and hikes as I work through the photography. Like these two samples most day's light ended sooner than I planned. I returned to camp after happy hour most days and had to catch up at the fireside cocktail hour instead—

[no stacking, just a photograph showing what I recall seeing]

 

[cornercanyon]

The drive into to base camp from Presidio and picking up windshield tags at Fort Leaton State Historic Site is best: closest fuel is Presidio, and checking in, in the interior at Sauceda Ranger Station is hit or miss and cumbersome even when available.

The camp chosen as a base for this trip, (Papalotes Llano Nuevo) 50 km (31 miles) in from the paved road; with lower speeds to conserve fuel and stops to admire the views lasted a couple of hours. Driving the speed limit, an hour and 15 minutes. [edit: reserving a camp is important, Texas doesn't believe in true public lands like out west]

Unlike Big Bend National Park, Big Bend Ranch State Park has no paved roads. All park roads are: 1- graded 2 wheel drive; 2— maintained high clearance 4 wheel drive; or 3— unmaintained high clearance 4 wheel drive. On this trip I did not take any of the unmaintained 4wd roads and after all the rains this summer (monsoon season) some I had planned to take were closed. Like "The Road to Nowhere". I also had planned to take Botella Road on the way home yet with the winter storm coming in I pussied out and drove the graded county road through Casa Piedra to Marfa. Though I am jumping ahead.

It is a land of big wide open spaces, incredible vistas amongst rough country. The state park is not a rock crawling haven though if you wish to go where few people do and find them not there; this is a wonderful playground.

Here is a vista, looking back to the northwest and Presidio, about half way in to the interior Sauceda Ranger Station.

After enjoying the drive from the Texas hill country and on into our camp dinner was made by head lamp (a sin back when I guided) soup with rice added in and a baguette to sop up the leavings by the fire.

[no stacking, just a photograph showing what I recall seeing, perhaps after an adult beverage]

This evening by the fire under that sky made dinner in the dark worth it.
Tomorrow we hike to Madrid Falls—

 

[wibornz]

Nice work. We are three days from taking off.

 

[cornercanyon]

Day One—

During the night my breath has frozen upon the glass and in stripes across the ceiling, should have hung the drapes as it is 25°F outside and not much more inside. All the weather forecasts I have followed preparing are off a 'few' degrees, the liars club. Laying here avoiding nature and need all is utterly silent around Papalote Llano Neuvo camp. The air is still as the surroundings. Not even the birds out as yet. No early bird?

Reorganized camp to better suit the cold and radiance from the sun. The awning won't be useful this week. Should have disconnected the hose before bed. Even my spills while making a pour over are freezing straight away.

At least my bagged water stayed liquid, and by the third cup my coffee tastes as it should: bold, hot, a little nutty. The cold beauty of morning in the high desert is breath taking.

From Papalote Llano back toward town on the Main Road to the East Oso loop and then on out Las Burras.

No real challenges wheeling though each saddle brings another view. Of three camp sites along Las Burras Road Las Burras 2 looked the most interesting. This area has few defined hikes.

A late lunch on dry salami, sharp cheese, and mandarins; then the drive back in the late afternoon light.

Took the West Oso loop on the return to the main road. Almost 3 hours of driving, exploring camps, and photography time, not including lunch. Easy trail with pin stripping—

[edit: I find adding the videos and getting where they best fit the narrative difficult]

 

[cornercanyon]

Day Two—

34°, quite an improvement over yesterday, plus I put the curtains up. Using the curtains made a significant difference in the comfort level inside.

Another coffeed sunrise and it looks like it is trying to rain out there over nowhere in the Chihuahuan Desert.

Drove out to the Chorro Vista Trailhead most of the way along a part of the Epic Trail, a 54 mile mountain bike path over single track, double track, sandy creek bottoms, and 4x4 high clearance trails. I don't mountain bike since I became a one eyed old man, but back packing the Epic Trail is hopefully in my future. During Day Three I videoed my favorite Jeep section of the Epic Trail.

Each way from camp to Chorro Vista TH took me over an hour, about 12 clicks, (lighter blue map path).

I prefer hikes as loops to out and back paths. Today's plan was to park at the Chorro Vista TH above Madrid Falls, walk back up the road and over to Pila de los Muchachos, a Arroyo Primero TH. Then hike down into the arroyo, enjoy the scenery, visit the drop off, visit Madrid Ruin, swing up to the falls overlook and back up to Chorro Vista TH, (red map path).

Mid hike I decided to detour to a pour over to see if I could get a photograph from the top, though the pour over turned out to be pour overs and being alone and tired I did not climb down into the first pond to see what the second held for me.

The moths didn't seem to enjoy it. Though I did find a gem or two while off the regular path through Arroyo Primero.

Back on the way to Madrid Falls I watched a tarantula, followed a mountain lion, (by a few days), found some unmarked springs, and flowers I have yet to identify; though decided not to name them. I love the variety we see in the high deserts: dove, mule deer, coyotes, hawks, quail, shrikes, javelina, etcetera. Life is so abundant.

I skipped the Madrid Ruins as my light was running out as were my legs. So, I headed for the Madrid Falls Overlook. [I tend to avoid entering water sources in the desert to: 1— not disturb wildlife obtaining much needed water; 2— avoid adding my sunscreen, smell, soap, or other contaminants to the fresh water that is in limited supply. Unless I need water myself]. The overlook is some distance from the falls and perhaps one day there will be a reason to visit more closely.

I expect the pool under the sensually curved stream is magical.

Then 13 kilometers in with about two to go I lost the trail out. There were too many cairns, and as I learned later the Gaia trail did not match the Texas Parks trail (though the TPWD trail mapping is quite poor), nor what I found on the ground. After struggling to find the or a trail out I decided to trust my multiple GPS systems (Gaia and Suunto) and bushwhacked my way back to the beloved Jeep Wrangler. Folks, please quit building your own cairns. There is a real art to cairn placement and few folks understand it, while even fewer know a specific trail well enough to act with authority and mark one. (bring on the criticism, I certainly made mistakes myself on a trail I had never done before).

The GPS systems nor the views disappointed me on the final leg out and back to the Jeep.

As I crested the plateau to see OUTSIDE 1,200m ahead, the Chisos Mountains presented to my back. My 15km plan turned into 17.9 very enjoyed kilometers, though the last two were unplanned and left me wanting to know the right paths.

An hour later I cooked another headlamp meal, salmon, new potatoes, and green beans. Damn, two nights in a row—

 

[wibornz]

A beautiful adventure for sure with just enough adversity to make it interesting.

 

[cornercanyon]

Day three—

34° this morning. It has been warming into the fifties each day making the driving and hiking quite pleasant once my morning coffee kicks in.

Yesterday's finish is bothering me. I was tired at the end of the hike, and it was getting dark, still it is one thing to pick an unplanned fork in the path and enjoy the exploring, quite another to not find a path and cross open country where your mapping says there is a trail to be found. Back I go to learn where I went off path.

On the way back in (light blue) I videoed this 'wheeling' section on the mountain bikers Epic Trail, which I enjoyed. Steep (22° pitch) and rutted, though easy for our Wranglers. More fun than just trying to avoid pin stripping.

Back out to the Chorro Vista trailhead this morning first I look for the Gaia jeep trail unsuccessfully, (red). There is a single track from up top near where the jeep trail may have been. The newer TPWD Chorro Vista trail to the Madrid Falls overlook is nicer. Together both make a loop a bit over 2km, (pink).

The Chorro Vista campsite is placed well with gorgeous views to the Chisos Mountains. One of the favorite camps according to the rangers.

Took the rest of the day off. Enjoyed a hot shower at camp and ran into Sauceda Ranger Station to pick up some water and ice (free, a donation is good form).

Met two older gentlemen from the Dallas area, one newer Land Cruiser on Toyo’s that had been to Alaska; the other a JLUR Sting Gray with a rock slider tailgate shelf and boot shelf, traveling with some younger folks in a JT Gladiator Rubicon on 40’s and a Foreunner. They were staying out at Guale 2 campsite another favorite camps I hear. Hopefully I'll make out there soon.

Back at camp for zucchini spaghetti, (grated zucchini cooks up so much more quickly than pasta), with pork sausage meat sauce and garlic toasted baguette. Later with my 'fancy' boxed Cabernet, not publicly consumed or displayed [Texas Park rules], the sunset and fire accompanied the evening's fall—

 

[blnewt]

Great shots, nice photo skills sir!

 

[cornercanyon]

Day Four—
warning: not a single jeep photograph in this post =/

Late into the night before, a juniper fire shared the night, offering up the wonderful incense that man cannot improve upon. I like to believe sitting by the fire watching the constellations rise over the nearby hill tops we share something with our ancestors as they watched the sky for the coming winter solstice and the hope growing daylight brings.

30° this morning; still looking for that growing light as coffee brews while I warm my hands near the propane flames my ancestors didn’t have.

We are hiking in Fresno Canyon today. The plan is visit the Crawford-Smith ruin, perhaps continue down the old Lajitas-Marfa Road to Fresno falls, then back track a bit to the Chimney Rock trail, returning up along the flat-irons past Rincon and back down Fresno Canyon where we parked OUTSIDE, [green], should about 15 kilometer hike if we skip the falls.

From Camp the trailhead is about 27km, [blue and purple], about an hour and a half each way. On the way down Fresno Canyon in the Jeep the ancients called us to a pictograph site. Hand prints in the ceiling in a rock shelter; a good fire and cooking site by the looks of it. Prints from another time. Holding my hand near them it strikes me how personal their markings are; not like today’s graffiti, or a drawing of Gilroy. These prints welcome and yet show who belongs here and whom does not. Time to move on.

Crawford-Smith is an abandoned home. Not just a homestead land grab these folks built here to stay and craft a life. Reading the story about the orchards and gardens. Realizing that the road up Fresno Canyon was THE Road between Lajitas and Marfa at a time when the common motor vehicle was a black Ford. I sense we are pampered today, there are few hardships we face as difficult as their daily life must have been.

On down to Fresno Falls. I must admit the water mesmerized me that day, the falls are maybe 10 feet in total. A gorgeous site and flowing water is always welcome in the desert, ‘falls’ seemed a stretch for me. I don’t think of Lava Falls as much of a waterfall, a significant rapid, yes; a fall, not really. Still the sound water on rock makes; the sensual curves the mixture sand, water and rock carves out; all together make music the desert sings best.

On the trail to Chimney Rock I found curious ‘Easter Egg’ rocks. I haven’t had time to look them up or learn about their origins, I am fascinated by their look. It was very difficult to leave only foot prints and take only photographs in the presence of these interesting geologic artifacts. In fact, I did take some cactus spines with me back to camp. Thank goodness for a good first aid kit's tweezers and some readers so at least I could leave them in the park.

Chimney Rock looks out over Government Road trail passes on, below the Lower Shutup trail. Continuing north and west below the Solitario’s flat-irons Government Road trail meanders past Rincon and back to Fresno Canyon. This day my legs again are waning too soon. Rather then follow the loop on around to return up canyon from the Jeep, I turn back toward lower Fresno Canyon using the creek bed as my path through cottonwoods, gravel, and sand.

Returning to the Jeep not far from the ruins I meet John and Denise from Montana. What a lovely couple living the vanlife. My it would be nice to reach that level of freedom for Jule and I.

Another 15km day hiking, though not as much up and down. I am younger than I feel tonight–

Sponsored