Wheels spacers on fully stock JLLUR

[tarndesigns]

About to order my JLUR... I noticed the tires don't sit as flush with the fenders as I'd like them to... especially in the rear.

Anyone running wheel spacers on their stock JLUR?

Also, can someone point me in the right direction for wheel spacer guidelines?

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[Berkfan]

SPIDERTRAX has 1.75" spacers, great quality and I had them on my JK for 60k miles without issues. I didn't wanted 1.75" so I had custom made 1-3/8" and regret not goin just 1-1/8". Paid $270. Make sure you get machined billet aluminum. There are lots of horror stories about cheap China cast aluminum cracking. BORA is supposedly another good quality brand.
Wheel studs protrude about 1-3/8" but OEM wheels have pockets so if you keep stock wheels you should not have any issues going 1" or thicker.

 

[Skippy]

I currently have 1.5" spacers on my Rubicon. They sit just a tad out from the fender but that is the look I wanted. It saves me from having to get new rims for now. I have put almost 4,000 on the spacers I have. As mentioned above make sure you look at the machined billet ones versus cast. I think they are also going to be more well balanced as machined too. I haven't had any issues or vibrations. I just put about 2,500 miles on a big road trip and didn't notice a thing

 

[tarndesigns]

I currently have 1.5" spacers on my Rubicon. They sit just a tad out from the fender but that is the look I wanted. It saves me from having to get new rims for now. I have put almost 4,000 on the spacers I have. As mentioned above make sure you look at the machined billet ones versus cast. I think they are also going to be more well balanced as machined too. I haven't had any issues or vibrations. I just put about 2,500 miles on a big road trip and didn't notice a thing

Well you need to post some pictures dude!!

 

[Skippy]

I will try to get a picture later today if I remember standing further back so you can see the over all stance. I am at a resort right now and feel stupid taking pictures lol.

 

[Swanny297]

I currently have 1.5" spacers on my Rubicon. They sit just a tad out from the fender but that is the look I wanted. It saves me from having to get new rims for now. I have put almost 4,000 on the spacers I have. As mentioned above make sure you look at the machined billet ones versus cast. I think they are also going to be more well balanced as machined too. I haven't had any issues or vibrations. I just put about 2,500 miles on a big road trip and didn't notice a thing

At 1.5” did you have to trim studs at all?

 

[Skippy]

No! If you look at the pics posted by Berkfan there are spots where the studs (at 1.5" you wont have extra length) if they do protrude will have the slot in teh wheel to go. It is essentially rotating the stud so the extra if any goes in to the hole and then you have new studs for the lug nuts to bolt to. One thing to note or that I do when doing spacers is put a little anti-seize on the back of them (very little) so that they dont get stuck to the rotor or hub from corrosion. Im in the midwest and had a car that I couldnt get the spacers off of after only one winter. Also, check the torque on the internal acorn lug nuts a few times. I used some locktite on those just to be safe. Then I got my tires rotated at the dealership and had them use their impact with hopefully the correct torque setting on all the lug nuts.

 

[drummerchick]

SPIDERTRAX has 1.75" spacers, great quality and I had them on my JK for 60k miles without issues. I didn't wanted 1.75" so I had custom made 1-3/8" and regret not goin just 1-1/8". Paid $270. Make sure you get machined billet aluminum. There are lots of horror stories about cheap China cast aluminum cracking. BORA is supposedly another good quality brand.
Wheel studs protrude about 1-3/8" but OEM wheels have pockets so if you keep stock wheels you should not have any issues going 1" or thicker.

Where did you have your spacers made?

 

[Swanny297]

Where did you have your spacers made?

http://www.spidertrax.com/Jeep-JL-WK2-1.75-Thick-Wheel-Spacers?sc=2&category=25650

 

[Berkfan]

Where did you have your spacers made?

https://www.uswheeladapters.com/

Make sure to let them know you will not accept China made casted aluminum, that's what they shipped me the 1st time. After spoking to the owner and returning the first order, I paid little extra ($270 total) and got high quality pieces machined to my requested thickness. Could not be happier with the quality.

 

[vhrock]

No! If you look at the pics posted by Berkfan there are spots where the studs (at 1.5" you wont have extra length) if they do protrude will have the slot in teh wheel to go. It is essentially rotating the stud so the extra if any goes in to the hole and then you have new studs for the lug nuts to bolt to. One thing to note or that I do when doing spacers is put a little anti-seize on the back of them (very little) so that they dont get stuck to the rotor or hub from corrosion. Im in the midwest and had a car that I couldnt get the spacers off of after only one winter. Also, check the torque on the internal acorn lug nuts a few times. I used some locktite on those just to be safe. Then I got my tires rotated at the dealership and had them use their impact with hopefully the correct torque setting on all the lug nuts.

Skippy, just spoke with local 4WP and they are telling me Spidertrax’s 1.5” spacers won’t work on JL because of the thread pitch. Did you use spidertrax for ur 1.5” spacers or someone else? Just not quite sure I want 1.75” but also thinking it might me so little extra, would I be able to tell the difference? I have a JLU Rubicon.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I buy and stock synergy 15/8” hubcentric spacers. Great product, need to trim some factory studs occasionally

Brett

 

[brazos]

I bought 1.5” Spidertrax first. Didn’t work. They’re for JK and others. It’s not thread pitch, as mentioned above, but stud diameter. The JL has bigger studs. I like that.
The 1.75s fit perfectly. I am very happy with them.
Oh, I bought new tires yesterday, and had to convince the Discount Tire salesman not to mess with them. I torqued them properly with red loctite, and don’t want to break the bond. Spidertrax recommends checking torque with wrench set 10# below spec for that reason.
Also, torquing with impact was mentioned above. Spidertrax specifically warns against that, I assume because of the malleability of aluminum.
When I researched it, 2 names kept coming up. Spidertrax and Synergy. The phrase “not a place to pinch pennies “ came up too.

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