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Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road.

DadJokes

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Being a business owner/operator has it’s ups and downs and we were on the down side in late ‘19 and our budget was squeezed enough to make a poor long term decision for short term relief. We needed to save where we could so I needed to trade down despite being upside down. To do that I needed a vehicle optioned up JUST enough to have considerable markup factor while the market would bear deep discounts on that vehicle. I was able to meet that criteria I set forth in my search with this ‘19 Firecracker Red Sahara.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 53210066-6194-4B7D-AAC2-BA837EF2F6C7


Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. EE5904D1-D413-43F0-B883-86AD200BFCC3

Then COVID hit. In March 2020, like everyone, we thought it might be the nail in the coffin for our small business but it wasn’t. Our clients that we had…were “essential”….and then they needed more of our services that we were very successful to provide them. We were then finally breaking even and then that moved into turning a profit again. Then that moved into selling our business but my wife staying on to be the only sales person for the company that bought us out. Suddenly, it’s just blowing up. My wife can finally focus on making the sale rather than us plugging leaks and the day to day operations.

The canceled vacation we planned on taking in 2020 was moved to this Summer and now we have the time and financial means to make it happen so we’ve been prepping for the trip. I’ve had shops do some and I’ve done some but here’s where I’m at.

I started with swapping the stock suspension for a Rubicon hardtop, tow group, steel bumper set of springs and shocks. The spring numbers installed ended in 61/62 up front and 90/91 out back. I only got precisely 1” of lift up front and .750” out back. I also added the $80 Mopar front lower control arms for about another degree of caster due to them being .250 longer. It sat really nice and even with the stock 32” AT tires, it looked good. It felt more controlled but not overly stiff in daily driving and I enjoyed that.
Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 009D7BB3-C968-4B02-AE26-D6423820D202


Then I installed a Genright bumper and Warn Zeon Platinum 10S winch. It was an absolute pain in the ass. I fiddled with it in my home shop making that big winch fit in that tiny space over the course of three days after work. Never again. Some of it Genright prepared me for in the install video but the grinding required was severely understated. Grinding on the case of a brand new winch is…crazy. That’s what I had to work with though so I used a flapper on a grinder and massaged several spots just enough to get the winch to sit flatly on the winch plate. THEN…trying to get the supplied nut plates started in that 3/4” gap on each end…well I ground on the nut plates extensively too to narrow them up to fit down there. For two nuts, I had to guide them down a screwdriver and contort with another screwdriver to hold it from turning, while not dropping it, while turning the bolt on the other side. I had to cut an 1/8” off the inner tabs of the frame rails too. A pain. I’m fine with some fabrication and have done my fair share but this was…avoidable by Genright for a very popular winch. I can’t endorse the product only because of the install.
After I get some use out of it, I’ll probably swap it out. The aluminum didn’t keep the front from dropping 3/4” after the winch/bumper install.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 1CC3A455-0844-4D6E-B36F-1FB4F32A8AC1


The plan was to add some lighting but using the existing factory fog light wiring and switch. Baja Designs has a plug and play solution when you purchase the adapters to go with their reasonably priced Squadron Sport wide cornering lights, with which I chose the amber lens to better cut through dust.
Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 421862B2-6E12-4CD5-AD30-728654DE93C1


Last Fall I spoke with Randy’s Ring and Pinion and the tech was very helpful in figuring out what I needed to make my Ox locker swap. I have the M200 but it has the narrow M220 chromoly Yukon axles. Stock gears until Winter 2021. It’s electric/cable actuated. The switch is behind the OBD port and easy enough to reach.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. A64F125A-17E5-4C22-84F3-6A05A40FBEBF


And the Mopar tailgate reinforcement. If that doesn’t work out well, I’ll try the new Teraflex hinge replacement setup that came out a couple of days ago.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. EFFDC5D4-D071-4203-B025-96259E481DE8


I wanted better recovery points so I have Maximus 3 tow loops in black out back.
Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. F72CAC12-8F46-433D-8AA6-676CC5DF5196


I needed more storage, a place to put my recovery boards, and more fuel because we are taking two Jeeps on this trip and since some of my kids will be with us, we don’t want to be stranded. I went with the XG Cargo Gama bags and a Rightline recovery board bag mounted across the framing of the Gama bags and wedged into the sport bar. I used industrial Velcro to hold it to the sport bar and two rubber twist ties to hold the recovery board bag’s handles and tied offto the Gama bag framing.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. D5BF7BEE-412A-4F75-8B63-703695B5D772

I also mounted my Element 50 fire extinguisher to one of the frames. The bags keep on giving…
Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 9F49C3AC-BA3F-4612-9668-D2B3C4E02A41

For fuel storage, the slightly cheaper and aesthetically better looking option to me was the Rebel Blackout kit with 2 Two gallon Rotopax containers and locks. I created my own lock covers with Plasti Dip.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 78E89E44-1BEA-4FCA-8AA7-F6563F203162

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 6DE98C86-DA2D-414B-BAFE-68341A17656C
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Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 132968AE-EB30-4442-A6A6-6C8D77996603

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. BC7BCBE2-10E3-4677-9C0B-4282818DF652


Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 7ACA2AFB-DCAF-453B-8AEB-F653F4D17D21


Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. FE7A39D4-B23C-414A-B031-68AA5CD41E87



The fenders and the rear bumper end caps were changed from painted Sahara to those of a Rubicon too. Thanks to Benny at Allmoparparts for the correct part numbers.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. CFDE0B0C-0F1D-4D5E-B20D-041ADE1B2974



I went with the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T’s (73 lb tire and 25 lb Sahara upgrade wheel) and despite having 17’s, stuck with the 18’s because of the balance between width and height. I needed a spacer too because they rubbed at full lock and I wanted some lateral stability back but don’t like much poke out of the tires so I had Bora make some 1” spacers that don’t require grinding of the stock studs when using stock wheels. That’s as far as you can go though. The stock pockets are 3/4” and these protrude through the spacers .410”.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. A087EF20-01CA-45FC-8863-6C3C0EB3CFCA


And an Asfir 2.0 engine skid plate.

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 3E44C335-50B8-4664-BB0F-DBB759DBAC3A


Now, fully loaded with a full tank of gas and after installing Synergy 1” rear springs, we have too much rake. We’re at 1.25” right now and if we unload and use fuel, it’ll be worse. Trying to strike a balance, I’m going to remove the 3/4 Daystar spacer I had put in last time and it’ll be what it is. Trying to make it a daily and not squat with gear etc is what I’m after. I don’t want a slippery slope of other changes going too high either. If I was able at the time, I’d of started with a Rubicon. lol I have a few more parts left to install.

I decided the name Ox makes sense since the rear diff cover says it and then I liked the Ox locker stickers enough to put them on the Jeep. There also wouldn’t be two names on the Jeep. It’s simple and works. Kinda like I think this Jeep will work for our needs.

Thanks to those on the forum who’ve helped along my journey from being a non-Jeeper to a Novice.:like:

I’ll update the thread with updates and mods as they come. I might share moments of our trip we’ve been prepping for here too.

Here’s our white Rubicon we picked up to help haul everything we need for our big trip. I call it the Chuck Wagon but my wife calls it Betty White. My oldest daughter (in the pic) and I went to Indiana and picked it up. She’s a new driver and will be piloting this Jeep at times when on our little adventure.

Things worked out and the craziness of 2020 is in the rear view mirror for us. We are thankful for hard work paying off, patience, and life getting back to normal. We’ll never forget these times.
Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 78C182E2-8C50-4D9A-B0F7-BAE61668880D
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DadJokes

DadJokes

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4.56 gears and RCV’s on the way. We’re looking at a July 17-18 install.
 
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This is just a bit of info for those changing suspension height while having stock style control arm bushings.

I have stock control arms (besides the longer Mopar front LCA’s) and went out to loosen all of the rear control arms and the shock mounts too. First, I filled the tank and loaded it most of the way like it’ll be on our big trip. Just loosening and retightening everything and getting the stock rubber control arm bushing out of bind made a difference. It dropped 1/4” with no other change than getting the bushings out of bind.

After removing the 3/4” Daystar spacers out back(too much rake it turns out with the Synergy 1” lift springs while fully loaded), I felt it prudent for longevity, ride, and articulation to make sure the bushings were not in a bind. Apparently they were.

The rake now sits at 7/16”.:like: This gives me a little wiggle room on adding a passenger, etc and keeping the vehicle dynamics like stock. I think I need to check the Toe though. It’s not driving badly but maybe it can be even better. shrug

I have all of my parts on hand for the gear and RCV install.

How far off should you allow your axles to be off center and re center them with adjustable track bars? I have them too but I can’t really detect anything obvious with the naked eye.
 
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DadJokes

DadJokes

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There’s a lifetime warranty on the RCV axles for the new generation Dana 30 up to 37” tires.


Excerpt from their website:

The RCV Jeep JL CV for Dana 30 is 18% larger than our previous Dana 30 design and uses our same Dana 60 architecture. Tests prove our axles to be twice as strong as OEM. Even with big tires and big power there are no worries. RCV Performance Ultimate CV Axles are low maintenance and operate with a smoothness you can feel - whether off-road or on the street. All backed with a Lifetime Warranty against breakage up to a 37" tire.

RCV axles are a direct OEM replacement, retaining the Jeep's "Front Axle Disconnect" module and retains full functionality of the FAD system. No warning lights, and no further modifications needed.

Additional Information​
  • We launched this new 18% larger CV specifically for the Jeep JL Rubicon
  • Axles outboards are gun-drilled with a grease fitting at the end for easy maintenance when needed. No need to remove any parts (but a center cap on the wheel)
  • We offer two versions - the FAD 2-pc version and a FAD eliminator 1-pc version. Both versions retain the FAD module. No warning lights, no issues.
  • Coupler utilizes upgraded aircraft grade materials
  • RCV FAD kits use a new bronze bushing, replacing the OEM plastic.
 
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DadJokes

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Baby steps. Apex Autolynx sway bar disconnects installed.
Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 07D0418D-2CBB-4C42-9D7F-AEA1E54182FA
 

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Motobilt diff cover
Teraflex adjustable rear track bar
(the front axle was centered within an 1/8”)
4.56 Spicer gears
RCV front axle cv shafts

I have 8th gear back & the cabin is quieter. I thought it was a normal Jeep drivetrain sound as it wasn’t as annoying as my drag car that had a really bad whine. I think this and 8th gear are my favorite changes! The noise reduction was a pleasant surprise.

The steering is easier. Is it the RCV’s? I wasn’t expecting that either.

These things are going to make our big trip a little nicer.
 
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Man, for a self-described novice, you skipped elementary school and went straight to college. LOL.
 
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DadJokes

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I called RCV performance about what grease they approve of using for the front axle shaft CV joints and while they have their own grease they sell, they don’t have any restriction on the grease used. I specifically mentioned lithium based Green Grease which is a synthetic I’ve used for years. It’s waterproof and specifies use between -20° F to the drop out point of 500° F. They have no issue with using this grease so since I’ve been using it about 20 years now, I’m going to stick with what has shown me excellent results and little to no wear in the times I’ve owned the vehicles I used it on.
 
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Anyone else try the Staun’s? If I didn’t just put three hours into zeroing them in, I’d send them back.

I used a known tire pressure gauge, verified it with a cheap mechanical freebie gauge and following the directions, when letting them air down, they were significantly under the target PSI. For my wife’s Jeep who might see some light to easier moderate off-road experience, I merely wanted to set it at 23 psi to account for cold conditions lowering that even more. It’s just for her to get in the ballpark easily. Anything beyond that, we’ll let out a little more the good old fashioned way. I also don’t want to lose more ground clearance than necessary.

1. The instructions say to set the tire pressure where you want it.
2.Next you quickly screw on the deflator to minimize air escaping and lowering the tire pressure even more.
3. Next, unscrew the top until air starts to come out and then screw it back in quickly and just enough to get the air to stop escaping.
4. Then screw the locking collar up against the top to lock the setting in.
5. Put in about 5 psi more into the tire so the deflator is above target psi. You may or may not have to manually pull on the pin that stick out the top to get it going.
6. When the valve closes on it’s own, remove the deflator spinning it off quickly.
7. Check the tire pressure.

Setting it while the tire was 23psi (my initial target) yielded 17.5 and 18.0 psi in the first two deflators. Initially, I had to raise the tire pressure to 29.5 to get the deflators to stop around 21.5 psi. Then I thought that if the manufacturing tolerances were close enough, I could break out my dial calipers to measure the height of the one that landed at 21.5 psi. It definitely helped. All the heights were within .015”. The worst of the 4 took 5 tries to get it zero’d in to 21.5 psi, the random psi I settled with because I was done chasing a different number than what the first one eventually got to. Close enough. From there, I just wanted the best consistency I could reasonably achieve.

Would I recommend them? No, not at $90. Maybe $20. I’m having her keep them in her glove box. I’ll be using a core removal tool and gauge.

I didn’t experience anything close to how the Youtuber’s make them out to be. Did they actually verify the pressures were at least close?

FYI, accuracy of these will be affected by tire temps and elevation.

If I go to the Rocky Mountains, I’d likely be looking at going from 1k ft elevation to 10k+. That alone would cause around 4 psi increase in tire pressure and probably affect the Staun deflator setting similarly. Going up a 1000 ft on a Sunny day will cause a 5° F temp drop. Cloudy, only 3°…and so on for every 1k ft. Every 10° in tire temp drop causes a loss of ~1 psi tire pressure. So there’s those factors too in picking a setting for these deflators if you don’t want to mess with them on the road. That’s why I just got them in a gravel, fire road, light off-road psi range… so maybe it’ll still save a couple of minutes. Maybe not. lol

Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 9E1D9F88-8423-408B-8407-058179CAC6B1

Full explanation of what direction the pressure would go is here—-> https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=167
 
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Well, one of the Stauns didn’t even want to open. Had to fidget with it and whatever I did got it to finally pop open to begin deflation…. Except it blew right past 21 psi and got to 8.5 psi before I stopped it.:mad:
Shite. The others worked fine. I have 3 that work…for now? WTH.

We went to Interlake SRA in Indiana today. We had a great time although my locker appears to be stuck engaged. I suspect the cable adjustment is off.
 

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Well, one of the Stauns didn’t even want to open. Had to fidget with it and whatever I did got it to finally pop open to begin deflation…. Except it blew right past 21 psi and got to 8.5 psi before I stopped it.:mad:
Shite. The others worked fine. I have 3 that work…for now? WTH.

We went to Interlake SRA in Indiana today. We had a great time although my locker appears to be stuck engaged. I suspect the cable adjustment is off.
Josh and I were actually talking about those deflators today. Looks like I will just stick to the core tool. Guess I can put that money elsewhere.
 
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Jeep Wrangler JL Ox the 19 Sahara is built and hitting the road. 81D6DA01-0E4A-49EC-911C-EF2E82965144

My 16 yo daughter getting it done with some spotting help.
 
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Josh and I were actually talking about those deflators today. Looks like I will just stick to the core tool. Guess I can put that money elsewhere.
That’s what I used today on my Jeep, a core tool. I spent hours setting those stupid things up only to have one fail… After fighting through that process, I was going to let the other two Jeeps use them as an easy button. So much for that. They’re getting core tools too. lol

My wife knows how to check tire pressure and inflate a tire now.
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