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2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build

ChattVol

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No he's saying that there are trade offs you make when buying off the shelf vs building your own, but for the OP, he's likely better off from an experience perspective to go the off the shelf route. I agree.
No offense...my post was a reply to @Sean K. I'm also interested in his opinion for the best off the shelf axle assembly.
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No offense...my post was a reply to @Sean K. I'm also interested in his opinion for the best off the shelf axle assembly.
None taken :) Could be wrong, that's how I read his post.
 

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Toniagp

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A pretty good driver and moderately built rubicon jlu on 37s can do trails rated up to 8/10. If you dont have the $ for d60s and want to run those trails, why not save the $5400 you would dump into stock d44s and roll with stock axles and 37s? I'd steer clear of running 40s on stock axles if $ is tight bc you're opening up a can of worms that will likely lead to hydro assist, upgrading brakes, ball joints, broken shafts, broken R&P + all the axle mods you listed. In the long run, I imagine you'll spend more dumping the $5400 into the stock axles and then going to d60s down the road and sell your modded d44 axles.

I was wheelin this week with my friend in a diesel jlu sport on stock d44s, 3.5" lift, 38s on beadlocks with no lockers. We did a few tougher lines that would prob be rated 6-7 and the diesel made it without lockers with sport t-case. I imagine it would have walked up if he was locked up and used more momentum He also ran Golden Spike, Hells Gate and Cliffhanger at Moab with this setup.
That guy needs to learn how to drive..lol.. thanks Matt!!
 

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40”JLURD

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UPDATE Axle Decision Made:

Okay I’m all for having a more stout axle assembly AND saving money. Especially on a build this expensive...

That being said I spent literally days learning about axles, all of them and watched several tear down videos to understand every individual component and where it went.

I settled in on the Dana “SUPER 60” from a Ford F-250 or F-350 Super Duty from 2005+, it’s in my opinion the most bad ass front axle Dana has ever made. However after a crazy amount of research there’s still a few bugs which have yet to be really ironed out with this axle swap.

Long story short I’ve decided on a set of Dynatrac axles because of all the issues with the Ford swap. These aren’t the old ProRock 44 or ProRock 60 either. This is the new Hard Core Pro Rock XD60 set which if you watch this video you will see these are insanely stout.

A few of the main advantages of this setup over the Ford swap are:

Although I am a good welder and have been a welder by trade in years past, I do not own a welder. Nor do I own a grinder, torch, plasma cutter, pickup truck, cherry picker, axle stand, or have any room on my garage for such a project.

This means even getting the junk yard axles will be a pain in the ass for me. Also I have no tools to help cut off old brackets or weld on any new ones or a place to do all this at. This means I would have to pay my builder to do all the axle prep, adding to the cost of the junk yard build. I believe they are much better suited for someone with all the right tools, space and experience to do all the mods to get the axles right.

Beyond that....

The front and rear axle bolt patterns and axle widths which will match perfectly. This is nice when you start having the headache of trying to figure out how fix mismatched Bolt patterns and axle widths. It can of course be done, but it costs more money and takes more work and makes the rig less serviceable in a pinch from having custom shit done to it. (Such as Artec Super Bearings {which are out of stock till next year estimate by Artec on the phone} or having a Timken Unit Bearing custom drilled to 8 x 6.5”)

52 Tooth tone rings come installed on the Dynatrac and factory harness plugs right in. No fighting with computer ABS and wheel speed sensors, not coming up with different fixes for front and rear axles to try and cobble something together which will work or “trick the computer”

72.5” Track width with ability to run 5.5” backspace wheels for an ultra tight Scrub/Turn radius

Comes with bad ass 13.3” brakes front and rear not mis-matched whatnot that’s held on by sketchy welded on brackets. I’d rather not have my entire brake system dependent upon a couple welds... These brakes will also neatly and barley tuck inside 17” rims allowing the super tight scrub radius.

Aforementioned bad ass brakes are engineered to use the factory brake master cylinder and booster. This is a big advantage once again over trying to cobble components together for a junk yard swap. Doing that will almost never result in a properly engineered brake setup, with a balanced system and a master that moves the correct amount of fluid for the corresponding calipers.

Their MASSIVE FORGED INNER C’s - super beefy and fully welded to compensate for about 4” of lift and more caster than factory. These bad boys aren’t going anywhere once burned in. Way more beefy than any other inner C’s I’ve seen while looking at axles and axle parts from manufacturers such as Reid racing.

These axles will save several hundred pounds of unsprung weight per axle compared to junk yard axles.

The 1550 Knuckles and Ball Joints are super beastly. Watch the video. People have won the king of the hammers on this axle set. If it can win KOH I’m sure it will suffice for me.

These are brand new and expertly crafted. Watch the bomb proof welds and expertly setup gears and lockers in the video of these being made... All the components are ultra massive and stout. I will feel completely confident with these puppies under my new rig!!!

 

Mr. Curti

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I don't think you understand the can of worms you're opening if you build one.

For you...it's probably easier to just buy a complete axle assembly with lockers/gears already in them.
I agree with you comment. And will add to it. Depending on the lift
UPDATE Axle Decision Made:

Okay I’m all for having a more stout axle assembly AND saving money. Especially on a build this expensive...

That being said I spent literally days learning about axles, all of them and watched several tear down videos to understand every individual component and where it went.

I settled in on the Dana “SUPER 60” from a Ford F-250 or F-350 Super Duty from 2005+, it’s in my opinion the most bad ass front axle Dana has ever made. However after a crazy amount of research there’s still a few bugs which have yet to be really ironed out with this axle swap.

Long story short I’ve decided on a set of Dynatrac axles because of all the issues with the Ford swap. These aren’t the old ProRock 44 or ProRock 60 either. This is the new Hard Core Pro Rock XD60 set which if you watch this video you will see these are insanely stout.

A few of the main advantages of this setup over the Ford swap are:

Although I am a good welder and have been a welder by trade in years past, I do not own a welder. Nor do I own a grinder, torch, plasma cutter, pickup truck, cherry picker, axle stand, or have any room on my garage for such a project.

This means even getting the junk yard axles will be a pain in the ass for me. Also I have no tools to help cut off old brackets or weld on any new ones or a place to do all this at. This means I would have to pay my builder to do all the axle prep, adding to the cost of the junk yard build. I believe they are much better suited for someone with all the right tools, space and experience to do all the mods to get the axles right.

Beyond that....

The front and rear axle bolt patterns and axle widths which will match perfectly. This is nice when you start having the headache of trying to figure out how fix mismatched Bolt patterns and axle widths. It can of course be done, but it costs more money and takes more work and makes the rig less serviceable in a pinch from having custom shit done to it. (Such as Artec Super Bearings {which are out of stock till next year estimate by Artec on the phone} or having a Timken Unit Bearing custom drilled to 8 x 6.5”)

52 Tooth tone rings come installed on the Dynatrac and factory harness plugs right in. No fighting with computer ABS and wheel speed sensors, not coming up with different fixes for front and rear axles to try and cobble something together which will work or “trick the computer”

72.5” Track width with ability to run 5.5” backspace wheels for an ultra tight Scrub/Turn radius

Comes with bad ass 13.3” brakes front and rear not mis-matched whatnot that’s held on by sketchy welded on brackets. I’d rather not have my entire brake system dependent upon a couple welds... These brakes will also neatly and barley tuck inside 17” rims allowing the super tight scrub radius.

Aforementioned bad ass brakes are engineered to use the factory brake master cylinder and booster. This is a big advantage once again over trying to cobble components together for a junk yard swap. Doing that will almost never result in a properly engineered brake setup, with a balanced system and a master that moves the correct amount of fluid for the corresponding calipers.

Their MASSIVE FORGED INNER C’s - super beefy and fully welded to compensate for about 4” of lift and more caster than factory. These bad boys aren’t going anywhere once burned in. Way more beefy than any other inner C’s I’ve seen while looking at axles and axle parts from manufacturers such as Reid racing.

These axles will save several hundred pounds of unsprung weight per axle compared to junk yard axles.

The 1550 Knuckles and Ball Joints are super beastly. Watch the video. People have won the king of the hammers on this axle set. If it can win KOH I’m sure it will suffice for me.

These are brand new and expertly crafted. Watch the bomb proof welds and expertly setup gears and lockers in the video of these being made... All the components are ultra massive and stout. I will feel completely confident with these puppies under my new rig!!!

UPDATE Axle Decision Made:

Okay I’m all for having a more stout axle assembly AND saving money. Especially on a build this expensive...

That being said I spent literally days learning about axles, all of them and watched several tear down videos to understand every individual component and where it went.

I settled in on the Dana “SUPER 60” from a Ford F-250 or F-350 Super Duty from 2005+, it’s in my opinion the most bad ass front axle Dana has ever made. However after a crazy amount of research there’s still a few bugs which have yet to be really ironed out with this axle swap.

Long story short I’ve decided on a set of Dynatrac axles because of all the issues with the Ford swap. These aren’t the old ProRock 44 or ProRock 60 either. This is the new Hard Core Pro Rock XD60 set which if you watch this video you will see these are insanely stout.

A few of the main advantages of this setup over the Ford swap are:

Although I am a good welder and have been a welder by trade in years past, I do not own a welder. Nor do I own a grinder, torch, plasma cutter, pickup truck, cherry picker, axle stand, or have any room on my garage for such a project.

This means even getting the junk yard axles will be a pain in the ass for me. Also I have no tools to help cut off old brackets or weld on any new ones or a place to do all this at. This means I would have to pay my builder to do all the axle prep, adding to the cost of the junk yard build. I believe they are much better suited for someone with all the right tools, space and experience to do all the mods to get the axles right.

Beyond that....

The front and rear axle bolt patterns and axle widths which will match perfectly. This is nice when you start having the headache of trying to figure out how fix mismatched Bolt patterns and axle widths. It can of course be done, but it costs more money and takes more work and makes the rig less serviceable in a pinch from having custom shit done to it. (Such as Artec Super Bearings {which are out of stock till next year estimate by Artec on the phone} or having a Timken Unit Bearing custom drilled to 8 x 6.5”)

52 Tooth tone rings come installed on the Dynatrac and factory harness plugs right in. No fighting with computer ABS and wheel speed sensors, not coming up with different fixes for front and rear axles to try and cobble something together which will work or “trick the computer”

72.5” Track width with ability to run 5.5” backspace wheels for an ultra tight Scrub/Turn radius

Comes with bad ass 13.3” brakes front and rear not mis-matched whatnot that’s held on by sketchy welded on brackets. I’d rather not have my entire brake system dependent upon a couple welds... These brakes will also neatly and barley tuck inside 17” rims allowing the super tight scrub radius.

Aforementioned bad ass brakes are engineered to use the factory brake master cylinder and booster. This is a big advantage once again over trying to cobble components together for a junk yard swap. Doing that will almost never result in a properly engineered brake setup, with a balanced system and a master that moves the correct amount of fluid for the corresponding calipers.

Their MASSIVE FORGED INNER C’s - super beefy and fully welded to compensate for about 4” of lift and more caster than factory. These bad boys aren’t going anywhere once burned in. Way more beefy than any other inner C’s I’ve seen while looking at axles and axle parts from manufacturers such as Reid racing.

These axles will save several hundred pounds of unsprung weight per axle compared to junk yard axles.

The 1550 Knuckles and Ball Joints are super beastly. Watch the video. People have won the king of the hammers on this axle set. If it can win KOH I’m sure it will suffice for me.

These are brand new and expertly crafted. Watch the bomb proof welds and expertly setup gears and lockers in the video of these being made... All the components are ultra massive and stout. I will feel completely confident with these puppies under my new rig!!!

Good luck with your future build. It will be an adventure. The long and short of it all, figure you will have just as much if not more in your modifications in comparison to what you paid for it. That is if you plan on it being built to the extreme. But that is the excitement of build a diesel rig.
 
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40”JLURD

40”JLURD

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I agree with you comment. And will add to it. Depending on the lift



Good luck with your future build. It will be an adventure. The long and short of it all, figure you will have just as much if not more in your modifications in comparison to what you paid for it. That is if you plan on it being built to the extreme. But that is the excitement of build a diesel rig.
Yes that’s where the budget is at, more in mods than an almost fully loaded diesel Rubi. Build is pushing over $120k with axles
 
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40”JLURD

40”JLURD

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New Raceline Beadlocks just came in...
 

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Mr. Curti

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Yes that’s where the budget is at, more in mods than an almost fully loaded diesel Rubi. Build is pushing over $120k with axles
Sounds about right. I cut a parts check this week for 39K and still have a very long way to go.

Did EVO tell you that the emissions system won’t be a problem? Most builders are trying to work around that obstacle for big lifts.
 
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40”JLURD

40”JLURD

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Awesome build! What gearing are you running? Excited to see the 72.5" axles bolted on.. :handsinair:
Thank you!!!

Im going to be running 4.88’s and here’s why for anyone in the future this info may help.


1. 37/38” tires and 4.56 gears are a perfect combination for the new Diesel. I’ve heard 3 or 4 members on here say that combination is perfect.

2. 40” tires will probably be best with 4.88 gears (as suggested by my builder for 40”, and by another member on here who had 37’s and 4.56’s and said it felt perfect. Then he put 40’s on the same gears and said he regretted not going with 4.88 now that he had 40’s)

Jeep Wrangler JL 2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build 2AC4436E-A712-4CA9-95DC-FBDE70F4A712


3. The theory that my builder told me “the diesel’s are slightly under geared from the factory” seems to be true. Both the 37/38” and 4.56 & the 40” and 4.88 combo are one R&P set deeper than factory would be.

Technically the 4.56 gear would be a perfect match for the 40’s to match the stock RPM/Tire Size but everyone loves the 37/38” tires on 4.56 gears.

Therefore based on the above observations it would appear as though the ideal R&P to tire size ratios for the DIESEL are as follows:

35” = 4.11

37/38” = 4.56

40” = 4.88

Going deeper than this may not and probably will not be beneficial for on road driving as the diesel motor powerband is so much lower than that of the gas models the lower RPM gives you more power contrary to how in a gas motor the slightly higher RPM would bring you closer to the powerband.

This chart is comparing 4.56 to 4.88 vs stock with 40” tires.

Jeep Wrangler JL 2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build 1B5F0BD2-08DC-4752-9AE5-6A016F178A8E


Here’s one comparing 4.56 or 4.88 for 37/38” tires


Jeep Wrangler JL 2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build 133398E9-B114-4915-8E88-95563336F3E4


And the last one for comparing 37/38” to 4.11 or 4.56

Jeep Wrangler JL 2021 40” Rubicon Diesel Build 64FC25EB-9E18-4120-A7E4-D82D20A086D1
 
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40”JLURD

40”JLURD

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Sounds about right. I cut a parts check this week for 39K and still have a very long way to go.

Did EVO tell you that the emissions system won’t be a problem? Most builders are trying to work around that obstacle for big lifts.
I haven’t specifically asked them about it but I know they’ve had a few diesel installs done already.
 

DeVoTee

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You will definitely like your Dynatrac axles... I have the XD60/80 in a JK with motor swap.
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