I think stock ones can be had for cheap. Check local shops for dumpster dive opportunities.I was inspecting under the jeep and saw the rear driveshaft boot was torn, but no leaking grease....must have bumped it on a ledge. @Moto_21 & @Roky Have you guys had this happen? I'm planning to keep truckin unless it starts having issues.
Also, the front flange is pretty bent with 29" extended front shocks...but still holding on with not much grease coming out...trying to avoid spending more $ on aftermarket shafts. If they start leaking grease or vibrating, I may throw on some takeoff stock shafts for cheap.
Hey brother ... my front driveshaft did that to. No issues from it. And the rear, just keep an eye on it, should be ok as long it’s not loosing grease.I was inspecting under the jeep and saw the rear driveshaft boot was torn, but no leaking grease....must have bumped it on a ledge. @Moto_21 & @Roky Have you guys had this happen? I'm planning to keep truckin unless it starts having issues.
Also, the front flange is pretty bent with 29" extended front shocks...but still holding on with not much grease coming out...trying to avoid spending more $ on aftermarket shafts. If they start leaking grease or vibrating, I may throw on some takeoff stock shafts for cheap.
I can get stock driveshafts for close to free...would prob go that route if these have to be replaced. If I was buying aftermarket shafts, I'd prob go with Adams 1310 running 37s...they claim they're stronger than stock driveshafts, much smaller in diameter and about $200 less than 1350. If I was running 39s or 40s, I'd go 1350. I've wheeled 20+ times over 2 years on the stock shafts and they have made it this far...1310 should be plenty.I think stock ones can be had for cheap. Check local shops for dumpster dive opportunities.
Trail Jeeps always has a few bits tossed in the bin.
So will you go 1310's or 1350's Adams Drive Shafts?
Yeah my front one tore open right at that cv joint And was grinding so bad. Havent tore the Slip boot on the Rear yet, but that boot i wouldnt care at all if it was ripped open, wont hurt anything, just might be a little sticky trying to extend or retract after a few thousand miles from dirt getting in thereI was inspecting under the jeep and saw the rear driveshaft boot was torn, but no leaking grease....must have bumped it on a ledge. @Moto_21 & @Roky Have you guys had this happen? I'm planning to keep truckin unless it starts having issues.
Also, the front flange is pretty bent with 29" extended front shocks...but still holding on with not much grease coming out...trying to avoid spending more $ on aftermarket shafts. If they start leaking grease or vibrating, I may throw on some takeoff stock shafts for cheap.
Yeah good idea.... I have 1310 in front for a year or so , works great. Still rocking stock in rear. Might do 1350 in rear when time comes.I can get stock driveshafts for close to free...would prob go that route if these have to be replaced. If I was buying aftermarket shafts, I'd prob go with Adams 1310 running 37s...they claim they're stronger than stock driveshafts, much smaller in diameter and about $200 less than 1350. If I was running 39s or 40s, I'd go 1350. I've wheeled 20+ times over 2 years on the stock shafts and they have made it this far...1310 should be plenty.
Adding OEM locker switches is a good bit more expensive bc you also need to buy the OEM dash interface, a new main wiring harness and software flash. I wanted to bypass the computer so I can use the lockers whenever I want.You mention using the AUX switches for your axles. Is there a way to make the OEM locker switches work or are you happy with what you have and have not looked at any other solutions?
Both of my boys go to high school in Chattanooga. We love the area and I have briefly looked for work there to move but have not found anything yet. I did not realize there were places to offroad there too. I am going to have to revisit the idea of relocating.
I just did the Rubicon axles swap a few weeks ago, and my front axle is off of a 2020 Gladiator and I noticed the drain bolt is now recessed by 1/4 inch. The likelihood of it being damaged or knocked loose is now really low. I believe FAC and Dana fixed the issue.I can maybe see a need for a rancho/Metalcloak front diff skid to protect the drain bolt if you rock crawl alot. In the rear, the pumpkin is made of thick cast steel....virtually impossible to do meaningful damage to it. IMHO, a rear diff skid isnt needed and Metalcloak did a good job marketing it. Look at the folks who wheel hard on YouTube...vast majority aren't running diff skids unless they're paid to run it.
Interesting....I've read Gladiator rubicon front axle walls is 10 mm thick vs 7mm thick on the JL Rubicon. Maybe that is to recess the plug.I just did the Rubicon axles swap a few weeks ago, and my front axle is off of a 2020 Gladiator and I noticed the drain bolt is now recessed by 1/4 inch. The likelihood of it being damaged or knocked loose is now really low. I believe FAC and Dana fixed the issue.