ARB refrigerator installs

[Frontal]

No problem with the compressor yet. I'll often open the hatch when I'm running it, but I don't always have that luxury. Around Christmas/New Years, we were on a 16 day, 2700 mile road trip with lots of wheeling, and I had to essentially air up almost every night. I've also been out wheeling where after I finished airing up my tires (37s from 8 to 32 psi), it was used to air up two other Jeeps. Sure, more ventilation would have been better, but it's not as bad as being in a hot engine compartment. Even without the hatch open, enough air manages to get in there through a lot of cracks and crevices.

I'm very impressed with how fast this compressor fills those tires. I originally made a 4-tire inflation system, but that was more of a PITA dealing with those hoses than it was worth. It didn't make life any easier at all. In fact, just the opposite, dealing with the hoses.

My current line routing is a bit complicated. First, from experience, I've learned you can't use regular hose for the first foot or two off one of these compressors. The hot, compressed air will melt it. So I used stainless braided AN-6 line off the compressor to a Tee bulkhead fitting at the front of the storage area and exiting that area. One leg will go to a small ARB air tank (I haven't installed this yet), and the other leg wraps around to the right and enters the stock jack area using another bulkhead fitting (kind of above the muffler output).


The hatch is the DPI Marine DPF1115BLK DPF Flush Series Door
I bought it off of Amazon, but it shows currently unavailable.

Could you tell me which battery you are using for your install?

I presume that it is lying on it's side?

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[2Wheel-Lee]

Could you tell me which battery you are using for your install?

I presume that it is lying on it's side?

Yes, that's the battery on its side. I'm using the Odyssey PC1100 battery, which the battery box is made for. If I were to buy a replacement battery, I'd probably get the PC950, since I don't need that much reserve, and just put a spacer in the battery box. That would save about 7 pounds.

 

[Frontal]

Yes, that's the battery on its side. I'm using the Odyssey PC1100 battery, which the battery box is made for. If I were to buy a replacement battery, I'd probably get the PC950, since I don't need that much reserve, and just put a spacer in the battery box. That would save about 7 pounds.

Thank you for the information.

 

[Frontal]

Yes, that's the battery on its side. I'm using the Odyssey PC1100 battery, which the battery box is made for. If I were to buy a replacement battery, I'd probably get the PC950, since I don't need that much reserve, and just put a spacer in the battery box. That would save about 7 pounds.

That looks like it will suit me just fine, as all I want to run is my ARB 47 liter fridge and some LED strip lighting for the awning and RTT.

I am looking at buying the Redarc BCDC 1220,

"The REDARC BCDC1220 is a 12V 20A In-vehicle DC to DC charger designed to keep your battery charged whilst driving, featuring multi stage battery charging."

But I am somewhat confused if I need the BCDC 1220-IGN?

"The REDARC BCDC1220-IGN is a 12V 20A In-vehicle DC to DC charger suitable for vehicles fitted with an ECU-controlled variable voltage alternator."

Did you use the type that are using IGN?

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

That looks like it will suit me just fine, as all I want to run is my ARB 47 liter fridge and some LED strip lighting for the awning and RTT.

I am looking at buying the Redarc BCDC 1220,

"The REDARC BCDC1220 is a 12V 20A In-vehicle DC to DC charger designed to keep your battery charged whilst driving, featuring multi stage battery charging."

But I am somewhat confused if I need the BCDC 1220-IGN?

"The REDARC BCDC1220-IGN is a 12V 20A In-vehicle DC to DC charger suitable for vehicles fitted with an ECU-controlled variable voltage alternator."

Did you use the type that are using IGN?

I don't remember seeing the 1220 versions when I bought mine 7 months ago. Maybe I just missed it.

This is the one I actually purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JPHCRV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 1225 has the low voltage capability built in, much like the IGN.

So basically here's the difference. The IGN version has a low turn-on and turn-off voltage. If you're familiar with conventional automotive charging systems, then you may recall the standard has always been that they charge at around 14.4V. Most newer vehicles have smart charging alternators that can vary from low 13s. This is ultimately done to reduce the engine load - yeah, it's all for fuel economy. Unfortunately, these often don't fully charge batteries, giving priority to fuel economy.

You can see the spec difference on the 1220 in the owner's manual here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2...20_Instruction_Manual.pdf?3032245281557900390
Find the section that says Turn on and Turn off Thresholds.

For our Jeeps, if I were to go with a 1220, I'd get the IGN model.

 

[Frontal]

I don't remember seeing the 1220 versions when I bought mine 7 months ago. Maybe I just missed it.

This is the one I actually purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JPHCRV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 1225 has the low voltage capability built in, much like the IGN.

So basically here's the difference. The IGN version has a low turn-on and turn-off voltage. If you're familiar with conventional automotive charging systems, then you may recall the standard has always been that they charge at around 14.4V. Most newer vehicles have smart charging alternators that can vary from low 13s. This is ultimately done to reduce the engine load - yeah, it's all for fuel economy. Unfortunately, these often don't fully charge batteries, giving priority to fuel economy.

You can see the spec difference on the 1220 in the owner's manual here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2...20_Instruction_Manual.pdf?3032245281557900390
Find the section that says Turn on and Turn off Thresholds.

For our Jeeps, if I were to go with a 1220, I'd get the IGN model.

Thank you very much for the information, this now give me a solid base to work from.

 

[chris4prez]

American Adventure Labs offers a drop-in insert that fits the ARB twin compressor and the battery (or an air tank). I had to move the compressor and battery over to fit the Redarc.

I have a 4awg cable coming from the front battery going to a 40 amp circuit breaker. The ARB compressor connects to the input of the CB and uses its own fuse holders. The CB is for the Redarc unit that charges the battery. Off the battery, I have a fuse block for the ARB fridge and a bunch of other rear lighting I use in camp.

One of the biggest advantages of using the Redarc charger, is that it can be set to charge at 15v, which is what is recommended for Odyssey batteries (the Genesis dual battery system doesn't properly charge the batteries, and they even recommend using a charger to charge them). And my stock electrical system remains intact.

The deck I fabricated. Here's a rough version.

How long are you able to run the fridge on the PC1100 setup before it needs charged? How long has the redarc taken to charge back up the PC1100?

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

How long are you able to run the fridge on the PC1100 setup before it needs charged? How long has the redarc taken to charge back up the PC1100?

I think I've only left it sit for a couple days at a time, and so I haven't run it dead yet. As a result I don't monitor the rear battery voltage very much. The way I generally check the voltage is by using the ARB fridge app on my phone - it shows input voltage.

Since I only finished this in October or so, I haven't had a lot of camping trips yet where I have left the vehicle parked for an extended period of time. Where I will start taxing the battery is when I do some trips and use my 12v electric blanket I got at a truck stop many years ago. I previously only used that in my truck, which is a diesel with two large batteries.

 

[WelderJay]

American Adventure Labs offers a drop-in insert that fits the ARB twin compressor and the battery (or an air tank). I had to move the compressor and battery over to fit the Redarc.

I have a 4awg cable coming from the front battery going to a 40 amp circuit breaker. The ARB compressor connects to the input of the CB and uses its own fuse holders. The CB is for the Redarc unit that charges the battery. Off the battery, I have a fuse block for the ARB fridge and a bunch of other rear lighting I use in camp.

One of the biggest advantages of using the Redarc charger, is that it can be set to charge at 15v, which is what is recommended for Odyssey batteries (the Genesis dual battery system doesn't properly charge the batteries, and they even recommend using a charger to charge them). And my stock electrical system remains intact.

The deck I fabricated. Here's a rough version.

Your setup is very clean. I like the use of what would be wasted space with a refer. If you have a 4awg cable coming from the front why not use a CB and connect directly? does this keep your rear battery completely isolated? Will the Redarc charge the batt to 100% when there is a load? I am not trying to criticize, I am looking at solutions and like yours for something similar

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

Your setup is very clean. I like the use of what would be wasted space with a refer. If you have a 4awg cable coming from the front why not use a CB and connect directly? does this keep your rear battery completely isolated? Will the Redarc charge the batt to 100% when there is a load? I am not trying to criticize, I am looking at solutions and like yours for something similar

Valid questions!

To start, yes, the rear battery is isolated from the Jeeps electrical system It is charged by the Redarc, which is also connected to the 4awg. The Redarc peak charge is 25 amps. The ARB compressor draws about 50 amp at load. So if I were to connect the ARB compressor to the rear battery, the rear battery couldn't be charged at a rate the compressor is putting a load on it. Really, that wouldn't be a problem, as the PC1100 has plenty of reserve. However, it's not uncommon that I end up inflating the tires on two other Jeeps (that happened my last time out). The battery might even be able to handle that as well, but I'm sure there would be some voltage drop, and the Redarc would be running as hard as it possibly could.

But I connected it to the front Jeep battery...My typical routine when airing up is that I have the Jeep running. Maybe because most of my wheeling times it's so cold I want the heat on for the family or it's so hot out I have the A/C on. I know, that sounds lame. But with my Samurai, I always kept the engine running.

Back to my engine running...I have the upgraded alternator setup that puts out more current than I remember, but it is capable of covering the vehicle loads and the compressor loads like nothing, I'm sure. This keeps the battery voltage sufficiently high without any concerns of a voltage drop from the load of the compressor.

Unlike the fridge, I don't have a need to run the compressor off the rear battery because it's isolated. If left on too long, obviously the fridge will kill the battery. I'm never in a situation where I'd run the compressor in such a way that I might kill the battery.

Nonetheless, I have it set up so I can easily switch the power wire for the compressor to the rear battery, if I needed to.

Kind of funny, but when I read your post about the CB, I was thinking what does my CB have to do with it? I was just having a conversation about a friend installing a CB into his Jeep and he needed to borrow my SWR meter. Only now at the end of that sentence, are you thinking oh, that CB.

Oh, and sorry...I know I'm not using the term voltage drop properly, if that's what you were thinking, but in this way, it's understood as more of a layman term. Perhaps voltage reduction?

 

[99wishes]

Somehow this thread turned into an informative and innovative thread. I would have expected a bunch of “use a google search, it’s your best friend”. Hopefully it stays that way.

@2Wheel-Lee Here are my questions:

1. ARB 50qt specs show .87amps/hr, at 24hrs thats 20.88 amps/day. Do you do any math to determine what battery size or what assumptions did you make?

2. I am struggling to find a setup that’s mobile enough to also work in my garage. I would like to use a separate battery for the fridge which means I would likely use the same battery while camping and in the garage. Do you have this in your rig full-time?

3. Additionally, I am concerned about the fridge and additional battery being in the Jeep during the warmer days. Either the windows have to be down or it gets toasty inside, maybe as much 130 degrees. I kind of envision pulling the fridge and the battery out and putting them in the shade. Am I over thinking this?

More questions coming...

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

Somehow this thread turned into an informative and innovative thread. I would have expected a bunch of “use a google search, it’s your best friend”. Hopefully it stays that way.

@2Wheel-Lee Here are my questions:

1. ARB 50qt specs show .87amps/hr, at 24hrs thats 20.88 amps/day. Do you do any math to determine what battery size or what assumptions did you make?

2. I am struggling to find a setup that’s mobile enough to also work in my garage. I would like to use a separate battery for the fridge which means I would likely use the same battery while camping and in the garage. Do you have this in your rig full-time?

3. Additionally, I am concerned about the fridge and additional battery being in the Jeep during the warmer days. Either the windows have to be down or it gets toasty inside, maybe as much 130 degrees. I kind of envision pulling the fridge and the battery out and putting them in the shade. Am I over thinking this?

More questions coming...

Good questions.
1. Yes, I did the math, but at the time, I didn't know what my specific need was yet, so it was only done for theory. First, the battery mount that AAL offered with their ARB mount was for the PC1100, so that was the starting point. That battery is rated at 45 amp/hour, if I recall correctly. That leaves me with about 2.25 amps available for 20 hours (there's no higher hour ratings). And as you noted, the ARB fridge is rated at an average of 0.87 amps. With that, I figured I'd have roughly 2 days of fridge time off the battery. That's plenty sufficient, as my Jeep trips won't likely leave my Jeep parked for longer than that...or even barely that. Given that, the smaller PC950 would likely suit my needs at 7 pounds less (I try to keep weight down), unless I use my 12V electric blanket. I don't know the current rating of that, and I haven't used it with this setup yet.

2. What are you using the battery in the garage for? Though my battery is removable, it's really only for service. I'm not sure if you have your fridge yet, but it comes with a 120V AC outlet to run the fridge in the garage. We did that for our recent Moab trip where we were in a hotel for 9 days (end of Dec/beginning of January). We kept it in the hotel for additional food storage.

3. I'll rarely ever say someone is overthinking things. It's good to think of all the variables and possible issues that may arise. Remember, these are usually kept in an engine compartment that maintains a fairly high temperature. My fridge does come out a lot of the time, merely so I don't carry the weight when I don't need it. I'm sure it's better to be out of the heat than in the heat, but I don't have a lot of experience with them to know if that's really a concern. I have a yellow JL, so it won't get as hot inside as a darker color would.

As for mobile battery options, have you looked into the mobile battery systems from Jackery and Goal Zero? Maybe those might solve your concerns? Remember, if it's mobile, it should be firmly strapped down when you're driving.

 

[99wishes]

Good questions.
1. Yes, I did the math, but at the time, I didn't know what my specific need was yet, so it was only done for theory. First, the battery mount that AAL offered with their ARB mount was for the PC1100, so that was the starting point. That battery is rated at 45 amp/hour, if I recall correctly. That leaves me with about 2.25 amps available for 20 hours (there's no higher hour ratings). And as you noted, the ARB fridge is rated at an average of 0.87 amps. With that, I figured I'd have roughly 2 days of fridge time off the battery. That's plenty sufficient, as my Jeep trips won't likely leave my Jeep parked for longer than that...or even barely that. Given that, the smaller PC950 would likely suit my needs at 7 pounds less (I try to keep weight down), unless I use my 12V electric blanket. I don't know the current rating of that, and I haven't used it with this setup yet.

2. What are you using the battery in the garage for? Though my battery is removable, it's really only for service. I'm not sure if you have your fridge yet, but it comes with a 120V AC outlet to run the fridge in the garage. We did that for our recent Moab trip where we were in a hotel for 9 days (end of Dec/beginning of January). We kept it in the hotel for additional food storage.

3. I'll rarely ever say someone is overthinking things. It's good to think of all the variables and possible issues that may arise. Remember, these are usually kept in an engine compartment that maintains a fairly high temperature. My fridge does come out a lot of the time, merely so I don't carry the weight when I don't need it. I'm sure it's better to be out of the heat than in the heat, but I don't have a lot of experience with them to know if that's really a concern. I have a yellow JL, so it won't get as hot inside as a darker color would.

As for mobile battery options, have you looked into the mobile battery systems from Jackery and Goal Zero? Maybe those might solve your concerns? Remember, if it's mobile, it should be firmly strapped down when you're driving.

I do have the fridge already. From my research it’s best to run it off 12v versus an outlet. But further down the road, I would use a solar panel to charge it at home. Not there yet though. Yeah I would have to find a more rugged battery going the mobile route.

Obviously if the fridge stays in a cooler environment it won’t have to work as hard; and good point about the battery. Seems like I could use a similar solution as you with the battery while think through the fridge more.

 

[99wishes]

@2Wheel-Lee Questions Round 2.

1. What adjustable rail system did you use? I see something similar on Amazon.

2. What carpet did you use? I know I can get this anywhere but yours is very clean, factory look! Why try something else when this matches.

3. Would you consider this setup with slides?

4. Anything you would do differently or anything you plan on adding? One thing I am considering is potentially using a cargo liner as the cover.

Thanks for your help!

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

@2Wheel-Lee Questions Round 2.

1. What adjustable rail system did you use? I see something similar on Amazon.

2. What carpet did you use? I know I can get this anywhere but yours is very clean, factory look! Why try something else when this matches.

3. Would you consider this setup with slides?

4. Anything you would do differently or anything you plan on adding? One thing I am considering is potentially using a cargo liner as the cover.

Thanks for your help!

1. The rail is some of this cargo rail (link below). I didn't actually buy this one, but it's the same. Though black would have looked better it wouldn't after it got all scratched up. I lucked out with the front, as I was actually able to bolt it down using the stock front bolt holes from the stock tie-down, further making this assembly secure. I still used the other two bolt holes on either side. The rear track is attached with stainless screws and T-nuts to the 1/2" marine plywood.
https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Al...cargo+rail&qid=1586109019&s=automotive&sr=1-3

2. It was some old trunk cloth I had from a long time ago. It's not carpet, but it was often referred to as trunk liner or trunk cloth. It's reasonably durable. What's nice is that it stretches pretty well around corners, whereas carpet doesn't stretch. This isn't the actual stuff, but maybe close. It's usually available in a few colors. However, sometimes the black has gray speckles, so watch out for that.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Automotive-Upholstery-Carpet-Flexible/dp/B07G5SLTQ2

3. I actually bought some heavy duty drawer slides and a bunch of aluminum to make a fridge slide, but I didn't. Since I don't currently have a shelf above the fridge, there's really no need to slide it out. Maybe if I ever do have a shelf, I might get back to making one. There were two reasons I didn't make the slide: the height added would have made me move fridge over to the right a bit more to clear the tailgate and seat back, and I didn't want that. Also, the rails are heavy duty - emphasis on heavy. I'm guessing by the time I was done, my slide assembly would have weighed at least 10-15 pounds. That's weight that didn't really serve a need... yet. As mentioned, I'm trying not to add weight unless I need it.

4. At this point, no changes planned, and so far, there's nothing I'd like to do any different. Well, I still need to figure out where my plug for the fridge is going to go. Right now, it's just a pig-tail from the Jeep that the fridge plugs into. I had some ideas where I was going to put an outlet, but I'm glad I didn't, as I found that I pack stuff right in the areas I was considering putting it, so I may end up just leaving it as a pig-tail. I'll continue to monitor my usage as it relates to that to see if I want to do that differently.
The stock outlet would be in the way and look cluttered. I also want to save that for camp accessories or phone chargers. I also wired that to the rear aux battery, so no worries of that killing the front battery.

I should take some pictures of my cargo area lighting. It would be a lot to explain without pictures.

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