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Engine break-in plans? Who's got 'em?

How will you break-in your 3.0?


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JLDIESEL

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Any further thoughts on this question? I just ordered my EcoDiesel Rubicon about a week ago and this isn't a pressing issue by any means, but I live in Arizona and will be taking delivery in Michigan . . . (my cousin is a sales manager). My rig will be getting a 3K mile road trip early in her life. I wont be towing or hitting the trails until after she's seen her home garage.
Just drive it without pushing her. They say a break in isn’t necessary, but I’d still let her cruise.
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AZ-Chris

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JLDiesel - Thank you for the prompt reply! I just finished reading the Wrangler Diesel Supplement Manual and, as you stated, no specific procedure was recommended unless towing was involved. Good to know.
 

JLURD

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JLDiesel - Thank you for the prompt reply! I just finished reading the Wrangler Diesel Supplement Manual and, as you stated, no specific procedure was recommended unless towing was involved. Good to know.
Probably best to avoid cruise control for something near the typical 5000 mile recommendation that’s been around forever.
 

2020 Diesel JL

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I’ll be changing my oil to full synthetic and will swap out the diff covers around 1000 miles.
I would wait longer than 1000 miles. To early IMO
 

jakebrake

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Probably best to avoid cruise control for something near the typical 5000 mile recommendation that’s been around forever.
I don't believe that at all. I drive a Kenworth...used cruise, kept at same speed because of satellite tracking, and lo and behold.

at 129k only a bent pushrod, bad rocker arm, dropped valve, and worn out camshaft.

(diesel engines were never meant for all of this emissions crap.)
 

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JLURD

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I don't believe that at all. I drive a Kenworth...used cruise, kept at same speed because of satellite tracking, and lo and behold.

at 129k only a bent pushrod, bad rocker arm, dropped valve, and worn out camshaft.

(diesel engines were never meant for all of this emissions crap.)
Not sure how your n of 1 example applies to a completely different engine and use-case. Not saying the cruise control issue is gospel, but there’s definitely no downside to avoiding it for a while and the explanations I’ve heard for the approach make plenty of sense.
 

JLURD

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I would wait longer than 1000 miles. To early IMO
Anyone making changes to the recommended intervals without a used oil analysis to back up the decision is on a fool’s errand. It’s like a patient who is prescribed blood pressure medication by their doctor, decides to change the dose based on some unproven dogma, and doesn’t check their BP before or after the change to assess the effects.
 

jakebrake

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Not sure how your n of 1 example applies to a completely different engine and use-case. Not saying the cruise control issue is gospel, but there’s definitely no downside to avoiding it for a while and the explanations I’ve heard for the approach make plenty of sense.
I don't think the cruise issue is gospel, either. my statement was more tongue in cheek. if you use cruise, I don't see where it's going to be that big of an issue, and, if one is truly that concerned, the occasional blip of the throttle should put their mind at ease.

However, the whole emissions thing? Yeah....THAT one is completely serious. the emissions systems on diesel engines are; stupid, overly restrictive, and, oftentimes seem to do much more harm than good.( Urea? we are now injecting urine into our exhaust system? wait until You see what that shit does to anything OTHER THAN plastic)

the mechanical disaster that is my Paccar engine was being used as an example of the joys of the emission controlled diesel engine. . They couldn't just fix computers to fudge numbers.....noooooooo. they had to put together some mongrolized cummins afterbirth, and, foist it on all of us in petes and kws. the emissions systems are the Achilles heel in every diesel engine. I wish FCA a lot of luck on this one. even more so to the buyers.
 
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Compression-Ignition

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Anyone making changes to the recommended intervals without a used oil analysis to back up the decision is on a fool’s errand. It’s like a patient who is prescribed blood pressure medication by their doctor, decides to change the dose based on some unproven dogma, and doesn’t check their BP before or after the change to assess the effects.
BITOG has showed me that when UOA'S are done in conjunction with early OCI's on a fresh engine, the wear metals decrease drastically. Having said that, they also decrease drastically going the distance on a factory recommended OCI. So IMO it doesn't hurt to get that stuff out of there sooner. Might just be throwing away good oil. Might also be removing contaminants earlier than they otherwise would be.
 

GARRIGA

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Been breaking in new gas engines since 87. First 300 miles under 65 with changing RPMs every five minutes or less. Either by alternating speeds or shifting up and down as needed. Same on RPMs until 500 miles except I start some short runs at higher RPMs and stay under 80. On my older cars I used to extend this to 1000 miles but my understanding is newer engines don’t require it.

I’m constantly told past 15 years there’s no break in period yet every manual has stated there is. Diesels are foreign to me. Unless facts dictate otherwise and written in the manual differently then I’m just following the manual. The web might know more than the factory but the web isn’t paying for my vehicle. Neither is the factory. Better safe than sorry. :)
 

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JLURD

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Been breaking in new gas engines since 87. First 300 miles under 65 with changing RPMs every five minutes or less. Either by alternating speeds or shifting up and down as needed. Same on RPMs until 500 miles except I start some short runs at higher RPMs and stay under 80. On my older cars I used to extend this to 1000 miles but my understanding is newer engines don’t require it.

I’m constantly told past 15 years there’s no break in period yet every manual has stated there is. Diesels are foreign to me. Unless facts dictate otherwise and written in the manual differently then I’m just following the manual. The web might know more than the factory but the web isn’t paying for my vehicle. Neither is the factory. Better safe than sorry. :)
IIRC, the diesel supplement manual states no specific break in required. I don’t see any downside using most of the historically beneficial break in recommendations that the VW forums popularized. Maybe they have no effect re this 3.0, but they definitely don’t cause problems.
 

Buttercup 3.0

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Any further thoughts on this question? I just ordered my EcoDiesel Rubicon about a week ago and this isn't a pressing issue by any means, but I live in Arizona and will be taking delivery in Michigan . . . (my cousin is a sales manager). My rig will be getting a 3K mile road trip early in her life. I wont be towing or hitting the trails until after she's seen her home garage.
Just drive it normal I did change my oil at 2500 miles because it was hardly showing on the stick and and so black.
 

Buttercup 3.0

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Just a head's up: oil in diesel engines will almost always be black.
Oh I know I’m actually a diesel mechanic I’ve built trucks for off road to the drag strip I mainly did it because it was so low I’m fixing to do it again at 5000k miles then I’ll see how long it can go without having to add oil.
 

JLURD

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Oh I know I’m actually a diesel mechanic I’ve built trucks for off road to the drag strip I mainly did it because it was so low I’m fixing to do it again at 5000k miles then I’ll see how long it can go without having to add oil.
Man I was planning on running my 3.0 into the ground over 20 years or so, but 5 million miles is serious :clap:
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