Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[Sting_NC_USA]

Initially, I'd say conduct your install without it, and if your tuning demonstrates gaps, then add the DSP.

If your amp is like JLAudio's, AudioControl's or any other with built in equalization, you can likely get by without a DSP between the PAC and your amp(s).

The high-end folks with tons of power will want a DSP regardless.

Just my .02

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[AnARcHy]

I've been looking and haven't seen any pics yet, where does everyone mount their Amppro device? I'm about to get into my install with the Amp pro R2, and I'm wondering is there room behind the dash for it?

Just make sure you mount it so that the reset button isn’t being constantly pressed. Right @Sting_NC_USA ?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Just make sure you mount it so that the reset button isn’t being constantly pressed. Right @Sting_NC_USA ?

LOL, Yup!

 

[MikelMD]

Got my install complete.

PAC Amppro R2
JL 10w3 in custom box
Rockford Punch P400x
Rockford t750x1bd
Focal ISN100 4” component set

Still waiting for the rear speakers
Audison 4” AP4
JL 3.5 C2

Install was pretty straightforward with the Pac Amppro. Take apart the dash plug in the harness. Run speaker wire and RCAs to amp. Hook up power and ground. The pac Amppro also has a pig tail harness so running wires was a breeze and tapping or splicing required. Just used butt connectors and lots of speaker wire. Also has a dedicated remote turn on and bass knob for sub RCA output.

I ended up putting the rca box in behind the glovebox since that was the only spot it could fit. Ran all the wiring underneath the seat. Had to take out the center console but that wasn’t too bad. One of the plugs underneath the seat is a complete bitch to unplug. But other than smooth sailing. Also I’ve probably done 3 installs and never a 4 channel. So I’m not a pro by any means.

Sounds pretty good. Overall I’m happy with the sound. I’m sure it will get a little better upgrading the rear speakers from the stocks.

Who built the custom box?

 

[sandor.g]

@Sting

So I am planning to do a light mod only.
I will start with no subwoofer just to see how the sound improves if I replace the existing speakers and add a small powerpack amp.
I'll use the PAC to feed an Alpine KTA-450 (4x50W is more than enough for me), but I am thinking that I would like to wire the battery feed individually instead of tapping into the head units power wires. Not a fan of tapping, in fact I hate tapping.
Question: where the hell can you penetrate the firewall to get to the d*mn battery?! Do you know by any chance?
I just replaced my fenders and was looking all over the place and could not find a place.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

I actually LOL'd!

So, first, I agree with not tapping main power wires. And yes, the firewall is a pain.

The firewall access point is below the fuse box, and is a large, double-walled rubber grommet.

You can access it externally from under the Jeep, but preferably by peeling back the inner fender liner. That requires removing a few plastic rivets, then re-attaching it with new fasteners. But, it can be accomplished by going in from under the Jeep without removing the fasteners.

You access it internally by removing the passenger side plastic foot molding. The section that runs from the firewall back to the side of the passenger seat.

You'll need to cut a 1-inch or so slot on the outside of the grommet and on the inside of the grommet, ensuring you aren't cutting any pass-through wires and ensuring the cuts are directly opposite each other, so your wires can pass through in a straight path. I concentrate on the outer ring of the grommet. 8:00 position on the inside, and 4:00 position on the outside.

To pull wires through, I use fish tape (Google it) which can be purchased at any hardware store, but you could use a coat hanger.

Once the grommet is cut, you simply feed the fish tape or hanger through, attaching the wires your pulling through in such a way that they will smoothly slide through the grommet's holes. I use electrical tape and try to keep the profile as small and "aerodynamic" as possible.

Hope this is helpful!

 

[sandor.g]

I actually LOL'd!

So, first, I agree with not tapping main power wires. And yes, the firewall is a pain.

The firewall access point is below the fuse box, and is a large, double-walled rubber grommet.

You can access it externally from under the Jeep, but preferably by peeling back the inner fender liner. That requires removing a few plastic rivets, then re-attaching it with new fasteners. But, it can be accomplished by going in from under the Jeep without removing the fasteners.

You access it internally by removing the passenger side plastic foot molding. The section that runs from the firewall back to the side of the passenger seat.

You'll need to cut a 1-inch or so slot on the outside of the grommet and on the inside of the grommet, ensuring you aren't cutting any pass-through wires and ensuring the cuts are directly opposite each other, so your wires can pass through in a straight path. I concentrate on the outer ring of the grommet. 8:00 position on the inside, and 4:00 position on the outside.

To pull wires through, I use fish tape (Google it) which can be purchased at any hardware store, but you could use a coat hanger.

Once the grommet is cut, you simply feed the fish tape or hanger through, attaching the wires your pulling through in such a way that they will smoothly slide through the grommet's holes. I use electrical tape and try to keep the profile as small and "aerodynamic" as possible.

Hope this is helpful!

Thanks!
I'll just take off the fender and be done with it. I hate folding the fender liner, it'll be in the way, I'll get frustrated then mad and I'll end up removing the fender in the end

I was going to use fishtape, it makes routing wires through small/inaccessible channels a lot easier.
I guess, to reduce the work I'll pull two wires sparing the effort for the time when I add the second amp for the sub.

Thanks for the info, super helpful

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Thanks!
I'll just take off the fender and be done with it. I hate folding the fender liner, it'll be in the way, I'll get frustrated then mad and I'll end up removing the fender in the end

I was going to use fishtape, it makes routing wires through small/inaccessible channels a lot easier.
I guess, to reduce the work I'll pull two wires sparing the effort for the time when I add the second amp for the sub.

Thanks for the info, super helpful

When I remember to (sorry @AnARcHy!), I also try to pull a section of paracord or string through as a lead for other wire(s) I'm considering installing in the future.

 

[MikelMD]

A huge thanks to @Sting_NC_USA (micheal) I finally pulled the trigger and purchased my new sound system (with a few changes).
I went with the Alpine PDR-V75 (was on sale - sorry), PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41, JL Audio C2650, Metra 6.5" PODs, JBL Club 4020 and thanks to @Jeffmiller32 (jeff) I am building a custom subwoofer using the JL 10w3! Thanks you guys. So, now I am trying to figure out the best place to mount the amp. Under the passenger or in the back - any opinions or 20/20 hind sights?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

A huge thanks to @Sting_NC_USA (micheal) I finally pulled the trigger and purchased my new sound system (with a few changes).
I went with the Alpine PDR-V75 (was on sale - sorry), PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41, JL Audio C2650, Metra 6.5" PODs, JBL Club 4020 and thanks to @Jeffmiller32 (jeff) I am building a custom subwoofer using the JL 10w3! Thanks you guys. So, now I am trying to figure out the best place to mount the amp. Under the passenger or in the back - any opinions or 20/20 hind sights?

The easiest and most convenient option is under the Passenger Seat. Check this rack out: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/sba-j-jlu-uar-stealthbox-accessories-99837 While made by JL Audio, it's able to handle most amps. A bit pricey, but really simplifies the install.

Unfortunately, you can't mount it under the rear seat. When folded down, there just isn't enough room for anything under there.

Several folks have mounted their gear in the rear storage bin. While a convenient spot, I worry about heat, and also water since there are no drain holes there.

Looks like you're going to be having some fun soon! Take your time and enjoy. Let me know if you hit any snags.

 

[MikelMD]

The easiest and most convenient option is under the Passenger Seat. Check this rack out: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/sba-j-jlu-uar-stealthbox-accessories-99837 While made by JL Audio, it's able to handle most amps. A bit pricey, but really simplifies the install.

Unfortunately, you can't mount it under the rear seat. When folded down, there just isn't enough room for anything under there.

Several folks have mounted their gear in the rear storage bin. While a convenient spot, I worry about heat, and also water since there are no drain holes there.

Looks like you're going to be having some fun soon! Take your time and enjoy. Let me know if you hit any snags.

My bad, underneath the passenger seat is where I am thinking. The only issue are the controls to access. But I am guessing that I tweak the controls before input the seat back???

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Pretty much. If you can mount it such that the controls are accessible from the rear of the passenger seat, that may help a ton.

 

[sandor.g]

A huge thanks to @Sting_NC_USA (micheal) I finally pulled the trigger and purchased my new sound system (with a few changes).
I went with the Alpine PDR-V75 (was on sale - sorry), PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41, JL Audio C2650, Metra 6.5" PODs, JBL Club 4020 and thanks to @Jeffmiller32 (jeff) I am building a custom subwoofer using the JL 10w3! Thanks you guys. So, now I am trying to figure out the best place to mount the amp. Under the passenger or in the back - any opinions or 20/20 hind sights?

What exactly is @Jeffmiller32’s recommendation for a custom sub?
I’m planning to do it too, took some measurements but I’m on the fence what design should I follow.

 

[MikelMD]

Pretty much. If you can mount it such that the controls are accessible from the rear of the passenger seat, that may help a ton.

How often do u think I would go and tweak? The alpine controls are on top so, I would need to remove the seat or have the wires long enough to pull it out from under

 

[MikelMD]

So he inspired me to build my speaker. Although I did it all out of wood. Here pix in the works.

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