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Anybody re-gearing their diesel?

Dasher320

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I plan on going with lift and 37" tires right away. How does the 3.73 gearing on the diesel handle the 37's? Anybody here running 37's on 3.73 ratio?
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I plan on going with lift and 37" tires right away. How does the 3.73 gearing on the diesel handle the 37's? Anybody here running 37's on 3.73 ratio?
None of the few folks here who are on 37s have re-geared as far as I have seen. Might have some benefit for 40-42” applications, but keep in mind that the wheel torque from a 3.0 running a 3.73 is the same as a 3.6 running about a 6.13 gear. It’ll be interesting to see who gets the bug first, but so far I’m not seeing much of a reason to spend that money this side of running 40s. The overland crowd will almost certainly be keeping the 3.73s for range purposes given the capabilities it still has for crawling.
 
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Dasher320

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None of the few folks here who are on 37s have re-geared as far as I have seen. Might have some benefit for 40-42” applications, but keep in mind that the wheel torque from a 3.0 running a 3.73 is the same as a 3.6 running about a 6.13 gear. It’ll be interesting to see who gets the bug first, but so far I’m not seeing much of a reason to spend that money this side of running 40s. The overland crowd will almost certainly be keeping the 3.73s for range purposes given the capabilities it still has for crawling.
Thanks. Great news as I already have over 10k in parts waiting for the JLURD to arrive.
 

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None of the few folks here who are on 37s have re-geared as far as I have seen. Might have some benefit for 40-42” applications, but keep in mind that the wheel torque from a 3.0 running a 3.73 is the same as a 3.6 running about a 6.13 gear. It’ll be interesting to see who gets the bug first, but so far I’m not seeing much of a reason to spend that money this side of running 40s. The overland crowd will almost certainly be keeping the 3.73s for range purposes given the capabilities it still has for crawling.
@Buttercup 3.0 (Shawn) I believe is going to 4.56's this week!
 

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It’s these reasons why I sought a diesel. So capable out of the gate. I just need to fully grasp that dam soot and best to mitigate its effect.

Since the JKU came out. Anything less than 37 just didn’t look right. Heck the CJ7 didn’t look right without 35s. JT looks best with 39/40s.

JL on 37s with flat genders and shorty bumpers from and back with top down and doors off gonna be one hell of a sweet ride going down those Florida trails and let’s not forget those trips to the mall. :)
 

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@Buttercup 3.0 (Shawn) I believe is going to 4.56's this week!
To each his own. Maybe he’s found some use for that amount of wheel torque without exceeding the traction of the rubber on the ground...and doesn’t need the range.
 

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It’s these reasons why I sought a diesel. So capable out of the gate. I just need to fully grasp that dam soot and best to mitigate its effect.

Since the JKU came out. Anything less than 37 just didn’t look right. Heck the CJ7 didn’t look right without 35s. JT looks best with 39/40s.

JL on 37s with flat genders and shorty bumpers from and back with top down and doors off gonna be one hell of a sweet ride going down those Florida trails and let’s not forget those trips to the mall. :)
Agree about tire sizes but still don’t think there’s any evidence that the new post-DPF EGR is having soot problems.
 

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To each his own. Maybe he’s found some use for that amount of wheel torque without exceeding the traction of the rubber on the ground...and doesn’t need the range.
I think he is trying to bring it back to factory settings Or close to, since he is now running 38’s. Maybe he will chime in and explain his thoughts for us.
 

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Agree about tire sizes but still don’t think there’s any evidence that the new post-DPF EGR is having soot problems.
That’s not the one that worries me. The HP is the same application as the gen 2. Dual EGRs? WTF were they thinking? LP a placeable?
 

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That’s not the one that worries me. The HP is the same application as the gen 2. Dual EGRs? WTF were they thinking? LP a placeable?
Not gonna lie, I’m fully prepared for their gen3 exhaust system to be a disaster and for it to be removed as a result. But I’m willing to withhold final judgment until real-world reliability is determined because no one has significant mileage on this design yet. Drawing post-DPF certainly has a lot of theoretical upside for the EGR, but we’ll see!
 

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Not gonna lie, I’m fully prepared for their gen3 exhaust system to be a disaster and for it to be removed as a result. But I’m willing to withhold final judgment until real-world reliability is determined because no one has significant mileage on this design yet. Drawing post-DPF certainly has a lot of theoretical upside for the EGR, but we’ll see!
Delete in the near future not an option. Five years down the road it is. Jeep will not ever then touch pavement. Why I’m willing to deal with soot if I can rebuild. This is still cheaper than dropping in a Hemi or LS solution. Just don’t know how viable that is nor willing to spend crazy money until then with failing parts because EPA thinks this helps. Plus I put 12k per year. I’ll be way past any emission warranties before she goes dirt only.
 

Buttercup 3.0

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I’m re gearing this week actually to a 4.56 or 4.88 the reasoning behind it is on 38s doing 70-75 I’m only running 1500rpms and it lugs even worse at say 60 it goes to 8th then it really lugs like 12-1300 rpm and that’s not good 4.56 will put me exactly back to stock configuration witch is awesome the torque is just bad ass. It I’ll be pulling a RV all over from Utah for EJS to California for the Rubicon so I may go with 4.88 but I do like to drive 75-80 not pulling so not sure but I’ll work that out with my tech. The Soot problem ok so at 2500 miles I checked the oil it was barely on the dip stick and black as night so I changed it. I will not be doing the 10k miles in between oil changes more like every 5k. Another thing the oil filter alone is $100 oil $10 a quart so basically $200 for a oil change if you do it yourself. All that being said we love it and as soon as I can I’ll be deleting all the emissions stuff as I live in a none emissions county got to love Texas. And just worked a deal with Rock Krawler I have a custom high clearance long arm kit coming it’s a 4 link in front and 3 link in rear lots of changes for our LiLD. Follow us @buttercup_ecodiesel for more updates.
 

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I’m re gearing this week actually to a 4.56 or 4.88 the reasoning behind it is on 38s doing 70-75 I’m only running 1500rpms and it lugs even worse at say 60 it goes to 8th then it really lugs like 12-1300 rpm and that’s not good 4.56 will put me exactly back to stock configuration witch is awesome the torque is just bad ass. It I’ll be pulling a RV all over from Utah for EJS to California for the Rubicon so I may go with 4.88 but I do like to drive 75-80 not pulling so not sure but I’ll work that out with my tech. The Soot problem ok so at 2500 miles I checked the oil it was barely on the dip stick and black as night so I changed it. I will not be doing the 10k miles in between oil changes more like every 5k. Another thing the oil filter alone is $100 oil $10 a quart so basically $200 for a oil change if you do it yourself. All that being said we love it and as soon as I can I’ll be deleting all the emissions stuff as I live in a none emissions county got to love Texas. And just worked a deal with Rock Krawler I have a custom high clearance long arm kit coming it’s a 4 link in front and 3 link in rear lots of changes for our LiLD. Follow us @buttercup_ecodiesel for more updates.
Is there an advantage to the re-gear achieving higher highway rpm compared to leaving it in 6th or 7th in manual mode?

Re oil change, most dealers will honor mopar-parts online prices for things like filters and I’ve seen multiple retailers selling Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 euro spec for under $50 for 8 quarts. I think Wally World was even in the 30s for that many quarts. Could do a change for $100-120 easy.

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Buttercup 3.0

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Is there an advantage to the re-gear achieving higher highway rpm compared to leaving it in 6th or 7th in manual mode? Yeah you wont have to use manual mode and let the trans do it’s job

Re oil change, most dealers will honor mopar-parts online prices for things like filters and I’ve seen multiple retailers selling Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 euro spec for under $50 for 8 quarts. I think Wally World was even in the 30s for that many quarts. Could do a change for $100-120 easy.
I agree we can get the oil a bit cheaper but no one has the filter but the dealer and a lot of them didn’t have it I had to drive an hr for it and it was $97.
8253B275-9531-4A37-920E-A1D5F6F314F0.jpeg
 

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That mopar-parts picture looks like the filter includes the housing which should be reusable, no? If so, the actual filter component may otherwise be identical to the gen2 filters which can be found for cheap just about anywhere.
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