List of aftermarket wheels that are hubcentric

[blnewt]

Yes this can be done and is the much more common situation when using after-market wheels (vs OEM). I would recommend getting a spacer for this situation. Personally I would only use hub-centric wheels but there's lots and lots of people that have gone the lug-centric route and are happy. Here's a very high-level overview from reseller Quadratec:
https://www.quadratec.com/c/blog/difference-between-hub-centric-and-lug-centric-wheels

@Karl_in_Chicago , thanks for that link, very good description of what this entire thread is about.
I'll paste that link in the main post

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[ElvisJL]

Curious, is this a list of only what's been found to be hubcentric from wheels that have been bought and installed with the possibility of more hubcentric options being out there, or is this a list of the only hubcentric options available to us?

 

[blnewt]

Curious, is this a list of only what's been found to be hubcentric from wheels that have been bought and installed with the possibility of more hubcentric options being out there, or is this a list of the only hubcentric options available to us?

It's a work in progress, as more are "discovered" I try to update the first posting.

 

[ElvisJL]

It's a work in progress, as more are "discovered" I try to update the first posting.

Understood. I was thinking these were the only hubcentric wheels available to us and got to thinking that there had to be more options available out there. I'll do some homework and look at options that may be "undiscovered".

 

[cierrare]

The SCS K5s are hub centric, and dead sexy.

https://www.stealthcustomseries.com/products/jeep

Do you have any pics of the wheels on your Jeep? Also, tire size and lift you're running? Thanks in advance.

 

[Mtrctylarry]

Our Turbomac HD and Traverse HD are hub centric and built for the JL Wrangler as well

Are the Analog wheels hub centric for JL’s also?

 

[cosmec]

This thread has been extremely helpful and I think I found my new set of wheels because of it. Can someone more knowledgeable than ,me tell me which of these specs is what I’m looking for? I want them flush/sticking out an inch or two but not with half the tire hanging out of the fender. I’ll be putting 37x12.5 on them and a mopar lift if that makes a difference

SIZE	BP	BP 2	PART NUMBER	FINISH	BORE	OFFSET	BSM (IN)	CAP NUM	RATING (LB)	WEIGHT (LB)	LUG TYPE	LIPSIZE (IN)
	17X9	5X127		D73517907545	MATTE BRONZE	71.50	-12	4.530	1003-47ZDB	2500	30	CONICAL	0
	17X9	5X127		D73517907550	MATTE BRONZE	71.50	1	5.040	1003-47ZDB	2500	30	CONICAL	0

 

[blnewt]

This thread has been extremely helpful and I think I found my new set of wheels because of it. Can someone more knowledgeable than ,me tell me which of these specs is what I’m looking for? I want them flush/sticking out an inch or two but not with half the tire hanging out of the fender. I’ll be putting 37x12.5 on them and a mopar lift if that makes a difference

SIZE	BP	BP 2	PART NUMBER	FINISH	BORE	OFFSET	BSM (IN)	CAP NUM	RATING (LB)	WEIGHT (LB)	LUG TYPE	LIPSIZE (IN)
	17X9	5X127		D73517907545	MATTE BRONZE	71.50	-12	4.530	1003-47ZDB	2500	30	CONICAL	0
	17X9	5X127		D73517907550	MATTE BRONZE	71.50	1	5.040	1003-47ZDB	2500	30	CONICAL	0

For that 37" tall tire you'll want the -12. I assume you have a Rubicon, so you could get by w/ the +1 offset to get closer to the fender, but under full suspension flex you'll want that extra room that the -12 provides. They will poke out about a 1/2" more than the +1 offset.

 

[cosmec]

For that 37" tall tire you'll want the -12. I assume you have a Rubicon, so you could get by w/ the +1 offset to get closer to the fender, but under full suspension flex you'll want that extra room that the -12 provides. They will poke out about a 1/2" more than the +1 offset.

Yes rubicon. Thank you!

 

[Reconatrek]

This thread has been extremely helpful and I think I found my new set of wheels because of it. Can someone more knowledgeable than ,me tell me which of these specs is what I’m looking for? I want them flush/sticking out an inch or two but not with half the tire hanging out of the fender. I’ll be putting 37x12.5 on them and a mopar lift if that makes a difference

SIZE	BP	BP 2	PART NUMBER	FINISH	BORE	OFFSET	BSM (IN)	CAP NUM	RATING (LB)	WEIGHT (LB)	LUG TYPE	LIPSIZE (IN)
	17X9	5X127		D73517907545	MATTE BRONZE	71.50	-12	4.530	1003-47ZDB	2500	30	CONICAL	0
	17X9	5X127		D73517907550	MATTE BRONZE	71.50	1	5.040	1003-47ZDB	2500	30	CONICAL	0

Curious to see how this setup looks. Can you share a pic when said and done?

 

[Redbaron73]

For that 37" tall tire you'll want the -12. I assume you have a Rubicon, so you could get by w/ the +1 offset to get closer to the fender, but under full suspension flex you'll want that extra room that the -12 provides. They will poke out about a 1/2" more than the +1 offset.

This is an interesting comment you made regarding the offset. I have a Rubicon and will be installing the 3.5" Maximus-3 Geolift. I have been looking for wheels, and using the offset calculator to determine the proper wheels to get for 37" BFG A/T tires. My goal was to keep the inner position as close to factory as possible, which according to the website +27mm would yield almost exact inner sidewall position as the factory setup.

I have NO (as in zero) experience with this, so I was using the factory spec as the determining factor. I decided that anything from 0 to +12 was an acceptable range, and have been looking for wheels in that range.

Based on your comment above regarding the extra room -12 provides, I am confused as to what I am missing. I do see that it moves the inner sidewall out 1.55" farther, but I was under the impression that was wasted space, and making me look like a skateboard.

Will the 1.5" inside space be used under max flex?

I appreciate the help, as I prefer to do it right the first time.

 

[Notorious]

My goal was to keep the inner position as close to factory as possible

I would recommend navigating to AEV’s website. While you may or may not like their wheel offerings, use their specs for the wheels as a good blueprint when trying to match a wheel that’s as close to factory as possible on 37’s.

AEV specifically engineered their wheels for the Rubicon to function like stock, specifically accounting for the wider axles that come standard on the Rubi.

 

[blnewt]

This is an interesting comment you made regarding the offset. I have a Rubicon and will be installing the 3.5" Maximus-3 Geolift. I have been looking for wheels, and using the offset calculator to determine the proper wheels to get for 37" BFG A/T tires. My goal was to keep the inner position as close to factory as possible, which according to the website +27mm would yield almost exact inner sidewall position as the factory setup.

I have NO (as in zero) experience with this, so I was using the factory spec as the determining factor. I decided that anything from 0 to +12 was an acceptable range, and have been looking for wheels in that range.

Based on your comment above regarding the extra room -12 provides, I am confused as to what I am missing. I do see that it moves the inner sidewall out 1.55" farther, but I was under the impression that was wasted space, and making me look like a skateboard.

Will the 1.5" inside space be used under max flex?

I appreciate the help, as I prefer to do it right the first time.

Think of your suspension as a big arc, as you go taller w/ your lift you are increasing that arc, and a 3.5" lift is quite a bit. The further your wheels are out from your suspension the further away they'll be when you "complete" that arc. If your wheels are too far to the inside contact is inevitable.

For a stock Rubicon running 32.5" tall tires you don't have near the space that those 37s will occupy, so running wheels closer to the inside is fine most of the time. Those 37s will be much closer once that suspension starts working so you want your wheels/tires away from the suspension to allow for that extra arc travel.

Also keep in mind those tall 37s will be much closer to the inner front suspension when you turn full lock.

Ideally you want the offset to allow full suspension travel, full turning lock to lock, and keep your tires within a reasonable space outside the fender (not poking like a skateboard).
Northridge 4x4 might be a good shop to contact regarding the offset range to accomplish all those aspects.

I would say you will probably have to go a fair amount negative (around a -12 to -18) to accomplish all of that but ???

 

[Redbaron73]

@blnewt Thank you for the response and detailed information. I am heading over to AEV site that @Notorious recommended and then will contact the guys @Northridge4x4 to see what they suggest. I would prefer to get a tire & wheel package so that I don't have to crate them around to get installed.

 

[Redbaron73]

I would recommend navigating to AEV’s website. While you may or may not like their wheel offerings, use their specs for the wheels as a good blueprint when trying to match a wheel that’s as close to factory as possible on 37’s.

AEV specifically engineered their wheels for the Rubicon to function like stock, specifically accounting for the wider axles that come standard on the Rubi.

I just looked at a few of the AEV wheels, and they are +25mm offset, which seems to contradict the logic of going to a negative offset, and is almost exactly the same inner position as a stock rubicon.

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/pintler-jeep-jl-wheel/
https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jl-borah/

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