Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

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...My question is would it be worth adding just an amplifier? Would it increase the sound quality to a noticeable amount?

Yes.

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[Molson123123]

Yes.

Agreed. Yes

 

[Du0377]

Agreed. Yes

Would the stock amp that comes with the upgraded system be a direct plug and play without further modifications needed? Seems like the easiest and cheapest way to go.

 

[dezyrme]

Very informative thread here. I'm planning on installing the JL Fix86 on my 2020 factory 8.4" Alpine system. Could I get away with using the Axxess AX-DSP-CH5 harness to pickup the high level signal directly off of the stock head unit similar to what NYknowledge did on page 4 of this thread? It appears to be a very similar harness to what is provided with the PAC Amp Pro less the actual processing unit. I understand that if I use this method I will need to incorporate the resistors to fool the Uconnect system. In this configuration, I would pickup up my signal before the factory Alpine amp. Sting mentioned in several of his posts that he thought the signal had to be picked up after the factory amp. If this is the case, has anyone been able to source a wiring harness plug that can plug into the factory amp to pickup the high level outputs and eliminate cutting into the factory harness? Just want to ensure that all the steering wheel controls and Uconnect function as intended with the aftermarket amps so I wanted to be sure that I take the best route possible to get a clean signal to the new amps from either the head unit itself or the factory amp.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Very informative thread here. I'm planning on installing the JL Fix86 on my 2020 factory 8.4" Alpine system. Could I get away with using the Axxess AX-DSP-CH5 harness to pickup the high level signal directly off of the stock head unit similar to what NYknowledge did on page 4 of this thread? It appears to be a very similar harness to what is provided with the PAC Amp Pro less the actual processing unit. I understand that if I use this method I will need to incorporate the resistors to fool the Uconnect system. In this configuration, I would pickup up my signal before the factory Alpine amp. Sting mentioned in several of his posts that he thought the signal had to be picked up after the factory amp. If this is the case, has anyone been able to source a wiring harness plug that can plug into the factory amp to pickup the high level outputs and eliminate cutting into the factory harness? Just want to ensure that all the steering wheel controls and Uconnect function as intended with the aftermarket amps so I wanted to be sure that I take the best route possible to get a clean signal to the new amps from either the head unit itself or the factory amp.

Actually, the PAC Amp Pro is the way to go these days. When you use it, you don't need the resistors and the processing built in will handle flattening the stock EQ signals pretty well.

As a point of clarification, if you do choose to follow the resistor approach, feeding the stock signal into the JL Audio Fix86, you definitely need to tap into the wires after the amp. But, if you go with the PAC Amp Pro, you can run RCA's straight from the PAC Amp Pro to your amp.

The stock head unit is what manages the steering wheel controls and will continue to work normally, as long as you send all four channels to your amp. Some have chosen to run only two channels (i.e. front left/front right) to their amps, and if you do that, yes, you'll lose fader control. Otherwise, everything will continue to work properly.

Let me know if that doesn't make sense, and I'll to my best to clarify. - Take care

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Would the stock amp that comes with the upgraded system be a direct plug and play without further modifications needed? Seems like the easiest and cheapest way to go.

Not necessarily. Most add-ons like that require Jeep techs to update the uConnect software. There may also be other parts you'd need outside of just the stock amp. The base system and upgraded system, I believe, have different speaker setups and wiring runs. While it may be possible, I'd strongly recommend putting your money into a solid aftermarket option instead.

 

[MikelMD]

Edit:

Oh, I almost forgot... Regarding the amps, they're really in two different classes. Without getting too technical, it breaks down to the quality of components inside. The dead giveaway is the presence of fuses on the outside of the Pioneer's panel. I generally recommend electronics that have internal heat and voltage protection. Also, the true output of the JL amp will be much stronger than the claimed output of the Pioneer. You'll have to Google "How to tell if a car amplifier rating is too good to be true."

Pioneer makes "ok" equipment for cars (excellent equipment for home audio - See their Elite series), they're not known for quality in the car audio world.

Your best bang for the buck will be the JL or something in that range like Audison, Focal, Morel, AudioControl. In my humble opinion, Kenwood, Pioneer, Dual, Infinity, and others' entry level stuff, aren't going to give you the quality you want. Specifically you want Total Harmonic Distortion at/below 1% and a strong signal to noise ratio (good value to use when comparing amps).

Hey Michael,

So, while I have not purchased all of the items - yet! I am about 2 weeks away from doing so. I wanted to ask and confirm two items, one Amp Wiring kit, do you have a link (there are quite a few out there) and that the JL Audio C2650 claims (on crutchfield) that they do not fit my JLU. In your first writeup u mention that we can go larger, should I assume w/o any issues / tweaking?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Hey Michael,

So, while I have not purchased all of the items - yet! I am about 2 weeks away from doing so. I wanted to ask and confirm two items, one Amp Wiring kit, do you have a link (there are quite a few out there) and that the JL Audio C2650 claims (on crutchfield) that they do not fit my JLU. In your first writeup u mention that we can go larger, should I assume w/o any issues / tweaking?

Well, you can't go by Crutchfield's recommendation because you're upgrading from the Jeep pods (4-inch speakers) to the Metra pods in the front (6.5-inch speakers). Crutchfield is only going to provide the size requirement for the stock pods.

Your soundbar can only handle 4-inch speakers unless you're willing to cut a bit. My general recommendation is to stick with higher-end 4-inch speakers in the soundbar.

As for wiring kits, check with your local shop or pick up something like this: KnuConcepts. The key is to figure out how long your RCA cables need to be, and buy a kit with the right length, or get a kit without RCA's and buy your own.

Good luck!

 

[MikelMD]

Well, you can't go by Crutchfield's recommendation because you're upgrading from the Jeep pods (4-inch speakers) to the Metra pods in the front (6.5-inch speakers). Crutchfield is only going to provide the size requirement for the stock pods.

Your soundbar can only handle 4-inch speakers unless you're willing to cut a bit. My general recommendation is to stick with higher-end 4-inch speakers in the soundbar.

As for wiring kits, check with your local shop or pick up something like this: KnuConcepts. The key is to figure out how long your RCA cables need to be, and buy a kit with the right length, or get a kit without RCA's and buy your own.

Good luck!

And the RCA is for the Subwoofer - correct? Also, I have no plans of upgrading the soundbar speakers - now. so leaving them alone. Thanks Again!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

And the RCA is for the Subwoofer - correct? Also, I have no plans of upgrading the soundbar speakers - now. so leaving them alone. Thanks Again!

Correct, the RCA cable would run from the output of your LOC to your sub's amp.

 

[MikelMD]

Edit:

Oh, I almost forgot... Regarding the amps, they're really in two different classes. Without getting too technical, it breaks down to the quality of components inside. The dead giveaway is the presence of fuses on the outside of the Pioneer's panel. I generally recommend electronics that have internal heat and voltage protection. Also, the true output of the JL amp will be much stronger than the claimed output of the Pioneer. You'll have to Google "How to tell if a car amplifier rating is too good to be true."

Pioneer makes "ok" equipment for cars (excellent equipment for home audio - See their Elite series), they're not known for quality in the car audio world.

Your best bang for the buck will be the JL or something in that range like Audison, Focal, Morel, AudioControl. In my humble opinion, Kenwood, Pioneer, Dual, Infinity, and others' entry level stuff, aren't going to give you the quality you want. Specifically you want Total Harmonic Distortion at/below 1% and a strong signal to noise ratio (good value to use when comparing amps).

Hey Michael,

I am trying to put together the "how to" list of videos and web links on, well, how to remove the old speakers, the kickers and the tweeters. Do you have any links?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Sorry, no links that I know of other than the description I've already provided.

 

[Gonz]

I've been looking and haven't seen any pics yet, where does everyone mount their Amppro device? I'm about to get into my install with the Amp pro R2, and I'm wondering is there room behind the dash for it?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

I've been looking and haven't seen any pics yet, where does everyone mount their Amppro device? I'm about to get into my install with the Amp pro R2, and I'm wondering is there room behind the dash for it?

There's very little space behind the radio available, though if you run the wires down and to the right (into the glove compartment area), You'll see that the PAC unit can be mounted between the outer wall of where your radio/AC controls are and the "guide" mechanism for your glove box. Just make sure you keep it and the wires away from the heat core element. It will wedge in there very easily and can be secured with strong double-sided tape.

Said another way, if you drop your glove box, you'd mount it on the wall area that's inside of the glove box opening on the left.

Let me know if that doesn't make since. Good luck with the install!

 

[Goosed]

There's very little space behind the radio available, though if you run the wires down and to the right (into the glove compartment area), You'll see that the PAC unit can be mounted between the outer wall of where your radio/AC controls are and the "guide" mechanism for your glove box. Just make sure you keep it and the wires away from the heat core element. It will wedge in there very easily and can be secured with strong double-sided tape.

Said another way, if you drop your glove box, you'd mount it on the wall area that's inside of the glove box opening on the left.

Let me know if that doesn't make since. Good luck with the install!

Sting,

Is it worth adding a DSP in addition to the new R2 Pac unit or will the PAC unit be able to provide clean output - adding a 4 channel amp For components and Mono D amp for a sub. Want to make sure the sound is clear.

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