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gwk

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I'm running 2.5" on my 2018 JLUR (Metalcloak) w 37s. I've had it this way for a year and it's mostly fine - drives great and looks great, and I feel omnipotent on the trails, there's nothing I won't try :).

However it rubs a little in the rear under some circumstances offroad. I've tried heating up and bending the inner fender away from the tire (online fix) but it hasn't worked. I'm considering buying the 3.5" springs from MC and popping them in to get a little more altitude.

My question is: can I just do that and not make any other adjustments (control arm changes for geometry etc.) or is that extra inch going to require other work? It seems like one more inch shouldn't be a big deal, and it's the difference between jacking it up in my driveway and taking it to a shop...
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jthoms1

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I'm running 2.5" on my 2018 JLUR (Metalcloak) w 37s. I've had it this way for a year and it's mostly fine - drives great and looks great, and I feel omnipotent on the trails, there's nothing I won't try :).

However it rubs a little in the rear under some circumstances offroad. I've tried heating up and bending the inner fender away from the tire (online fix) but it hasn't worked. I'm considering buying the 3.5" springs from MC and popping them in to get a little more altitude.

My question is: can I just do that and not make any other adjustments (control arm changes for geometry etc.) or is that extra inch going to require other work? It seems like one more inch shouldn't be a big deal, and it's the difference between jacking it up in my driveway and taking it to a shop...
so I asked this question in a similar way on another thread. As I recall the things you need to consider impacting were the sway bar end links front and rear. Without knowing everything else you’ve done to the Jeep, I believe you also have to consider the trackbar as I think it will begin to pull your front axle in. Also you just have to ensure you have shocks that are long enough. I think that’s it but someone with more Jeep experience than I may point out something else. I’m a reformed 4Runner guy and knew those inside and out.
 

ChattVol

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I'm running 2.5" on my 2018 JLUR (Metalcloak) w 37s. I've had it this way for a year and it's mostly fine - drives great and looks great, and I feel omnipotent on the trails, there's nothing I won't try :).

However it rubs a little in the rear under some circumstances offroad. I've tried heating up and bending the inner fender away from the tire (online fix) but it hasn't worked. I'm considering buying the 3.5" springs from MC and popping them in to get a little more altitude.

My question is: can I just do that and not make any other adjustments (control arm changes for geometry etc.) or is that extra inch going to require other work? It seems like one more inch shouldn't be a big deal, and it's the difference between jacking it up in my driveway and taking it to a shop...
How is lifting your jeep an inch taller going to fix your rear tires rubbing while flexing? Where are they rubbing and what backspacing and bumpstops are you running?
 

MarkY3130

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I have 37’s and the MC 3.5” lift. I need to address the rear inner fender liners as well. I rub them bad off-road. (Not the top of the tire, the back of the tire which I assume is the same as you) Adding an inch won’t change much on the rubbing, maybe you get rubbing a little less frequently, but your bump stops will control how far up your tire is allowed to travel.
 
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gwk

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Sounds like I need to focus on the bumpstops rather than gross height (esp. given MarkY3130's statement that he already has the lift I'd be getting and it still rubs). I'd rather not put the extra height in it - it's already hard enough to climb into and find tall enough parking garages for! Thanks for the feedback.
 

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ChattVol

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Sounds like I need to focus on the bumpstops rather than gross height (esp. given MarkY3130's statement that he already has the lift I'd be getting and it still rubs). I'd rather not put the extra height in it - it's already hard enough to climb into and find tall enough parking garages for! Thanks for the feedback.
Where is it rubbing? Inner fender or rear portion of inner fender
 
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gwk

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Rear portion of. There's a section that sticks out a little bit and that's where it's hitting (I think; obviously I can't see it happening but others have reported same and there are marks there which tend to confirm that's the rub point).
 

quietpeen

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Sounds like I need to focus on the bumpstops rather than gross height (esp. given MarkY3130's statement that he already has the lift I'd be getting and it still rubs). I'd rather not put the extra height in it - it's already hard enough to climb into and find tall enough parking garages for! Thanks for the feedback.
This, how much bump top are you running? I have 37’s and rub in the same spot but I’m only running 2” bump stop. Taller lift springs will just make it have to travel a little bit further before it rubs but won’t stop it from rubbing once the tire is fully stuffed in the wheel well.

Like Rocky said you can replace the inner liners with aftermarket ones and gain room but that is more expensive than adding bump stops.
 

jlewissystem

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That part sticking out covers a pinch weld. I’m going to look into options around this, once my fender hardware gets here. I will look to possibly trim that pinch weld and (heat) re-form that part or remove. Although the liners may rub a bit (which isn’t that much at full stuff), the bigger issue in the body welds. Either trim or bump stop. I might run no liners for a bit, but we’ll see how annoying that might be. I have MC 3.5 on 37s
 

Jtizzle

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That part sticking out covers a pinch weld. I’m going to look into options around this, once my fender hardware gets here. I will look to possibly trim that pinch weld and (heat) re-form that part or remove. Although the liners may rub a bit (which isn’t that much at full stuff), the bigger issue in the body welds. Either trim or bump stop. I might run no liners for a bit, but we’ll see how annoying that might be. I have MC 3.5 on 37s
I’m curious to see how this works out. How do you like the Metal Cloak loft overall? I’m debating doing it, but it’s expensive.
 

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Roky

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That part sticking out covers a pinch weld. I’m going to look into options around this, once my fender hardware gets here. I will look to possibly trim that pinch weld and (heat) re-form that part or remove. Although the liners may rub a bit (which isn’t that much at full stuff), the bigger issue in the body welds. Either trim or bump stop. I might run no liners for a bit, but we’ll see how annoying that might be. I have MC 3.5 on 37s
I trimmed my pinch seams a year ago, and it really made a huge difference. After I cut them I filled the seam with JB weld , sanded and painted with Mopar color match paint......

7E2E30AF-4F3F-4BEF-908F-DC2BB5A44D03.jpeg
 

jlewissystem

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I’m curious to see how this works out. How do you like the Metal Cloak loft overall? I’m debating doing it, but it’s expensive.
Looks like I'll do what Roky did. I love the lift so far! No issues. The Rocksports are pretty good, but maybe a little firm for me.
 

jlewissystem

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I trimmed my pinch seams a year ago, and it really made a huge difference. After I cut them I filled the seam with JB weld , sanded and painted with Mopar color match paint......

7E2E30AF-4F3F-4BEF-908F-DC2BB5A44D03.jpeg
Perfect, thanks for the pic! I think i'll be looking into that. Is that the only spot you had to trim?
 

ChattVol

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Rear portion of. There's a section that sticks out a little bit and that's where it's hitting (I think; obviously I can't see it happening but others have reported same and there are marks there which tend to confirm that's the rub point).
I removed the lower piece and used a $10 heat gun to flatten the remaining fender part that stuck out. Took 15min to do both sides...very easy
 

ChattVol

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I trimmed my pinch seams a year ago, and it really made a huge difference. After I cut them I filled the seam with JB weld , sanded and painted with Mopar color match paint......

7E2E30AF-4F3F-4BEF-908F-DC2BB5A44D03.jpeg
Looks great...did you use a dremel to trim it? What type of cutting wheel? What kind of JB weld? Thanks
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