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Dumping factory fill. What oil is everyone running?

scrape

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Great job reading my post and understanding none of it.
Perhaps you could offer some clarification then, because it looked like you were attributing the performance of an oil to its base stock. I must have got this idea by you talking about base stock, and literally nothing else.
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DanW

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Perhaps you could offer some clarification then, because it looked like you were attributing the performance of an oil to its base stock. I must have got this idea by you talking about base stock, and literally nothing else.
Absolutely I was. You can't get as low a pour point with a group III and especially with a dino, no matter the add pack. I don't see what's so hard to understand about that. You can't get as high a flash point, either.
 

DanW

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cmc.703

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Switched to Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 here !!
 

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DanW

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I just put 6 quarts of the Rotella Gas Truck I got for free, after rebate, in my JK today at 138,000 miles. If I found a jug of 0w20 for $10 or free after rebate, I'd be happy to run it in the JL. I'm sure it is outstanding oil, but I'm not sure it is really much different from Pennzoil Platinum. I've got a few jugs of 5w30, as well. I'll probably run it in my wife's van or in the JK down the road.
 

ChimpanZed

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I just did my second oil change at ~5000 miles (first at ~1250) using Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0W-20. I was able to find the oil for $18 at Tractor Supply and get the $10 rebate from Shell. With <$13 oil changes it just feels good to err on the side of caution and get the early oil out soon. I'll switch to ~7500 mile changes from now on but likely stick with Rotella Gas Truck as it seems to produce great UOAs. I've decided to not do my own UOAs on the Jeep as that defeats the purpose of cheap changes and the Pentastar is a proven platform that's easy on oil.
 

Jimmy_jak

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I'm running 0w20 now. Would trying 5w30 possibly make a difference with my predetonation?
 

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DanW

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I'm running 0w20 now. Would trying 5w30 possibly make a difference with my predetonation?
I doubt it. The 0w20's on the market should all be SN+ by now, so if they could have an effect, you'd already see it. I think LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition) that is common to DI/turbo engines is a different animal than what is going on in your 3.6. I'd have the dealer address it.

The other thing I'd recommend is a high quality brand-name fuel with Top Tier certification. That'll keep carbon buildup at bay, which can contribute to predetonation. I run Shell regular probably 95% of the time and haven't experienced it at all.

If you have run non-Top Tier gas, then I'd start with a tank of V-Power to clean it out. Of course Chevron, Exxon, Mobil, and BP probably have the same level of detergents as Shell, which exceed Top Tier minimums.

Of course, this would all be after having your dealer's service department check it out.

Mild predetonation isn't likely to cause a problem, but it is annoying as hell.

Does it do it on mid-grade gas?
 

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Jimmy_jak

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I doubt it. The 0w20's on the market should all be SN+ by now, so if they could have an effect, you'd already see it. I think LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition) that is common to DI/turbo engines is a different animal than what is going on in your 3.6. I'd have the dealer address it.

The other thing I'd recommend is a high quality brand-name fuel with Top Tier certification. That'll keep carbon buildup at bay, which can contribute to predetonation. I run Shell regular probably 95% of the time and haven't experienced it at all.

If you have run non-Top Tier gas, then I'd start with a tank of V-Power to clean it out. Of course Chevron, Exxon, Mobil, and BP probably have the same level of detergents as Shell, which exceed Top Tier minimums.

Of course, this would all be after having your dealer's service department check it out.

Mild predetonation isn't likely to cause a problem, but it is annoying as hell.

Does it do it on mid-grade gas?
Took it to the dealer. Twice. They say they can't hear it which is bullshit.

The reality is they don't know what to do because they aren't in the business of diagnosing. Service guy said there is no code and they can't fix it.

It is annoying as hell and can be heard through each gear as acceleration is started.

I'm going to start with your suggestion and try a full tank of the good stuff. I have done mid grade and can still hear it.

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CarbonSteel

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I'm running 0w20 now. Would trying 5w30 possibly make a difference with my predetonation?
To tack onto what Dan said, you may want to try a fuel cleaner that has a healthy dose of PEA (Gumout All in One, for example) to see if it helps. I am not sure how many miles you have on your 2019, but it would be strange for carbon to be the cause of pre-ignition this early in the game, but you never know. I am surprised (or maybe not) the techs could not replicate the problem since the service writer could. 3.6L Pentastars do not have the issues that require an SN+ oil like the 2.0T engines do, so I doubt the oil is the issue, but you could always try another brand.
 

Jelllo

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cb4017

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How do you define high quality oil? I couldn't find any engine manufacturers that recommend Amsoil and their 25,000 mile change interval is outrageous.
Pennzoil.jpg
I wouldn't go 25,000 miles no matter how good the oil was. That said, I have my preferences but would personally have no problem using any name brand oil that meets specifications.
 

VNT

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All are not going to recommend 25K intervals, but from my late model Mopars the oil life monitors seem to indicate 10K for oil lifespan for my driving.

I always change at 4-5K max with decent oil. Oil is cheap, and while some of these synthetics can go longer, I am more concerned about the filtration. Would rather dump the oil more frequently for that reason and keep the engine clean.

I also prefer higher viscosity, not a fan of 20W oil but run whatever you like, it is your engine.

How many are changing the lubes in the diffs and T-case.
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