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List of Chrysler MS-12991 Engine Oil for the 3.0 EcoDiesel Jeep Wrangler

Compression-Ignition

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It looks like the only difference with the MS-12991 rating is that it is low ash which is designed to help with DPF issues. Regardless of what oil you use I would just change it earlier than recommended.
That is the conclusion I came to as well. If you are worried either utilize an oil change analysis program or halve the recommended OCI and call it good. Or suck it up and buy the oil they tell you to.......or disregard your warranty completely and do whatever the heck you want.

That's a lot of "or's" :giggle:
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bruno747

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I know people were having t6 oil tested in the earlier ecodiesel at 10k miles and being told it still has plenty of live in it. These people weren't towing just daily driving it.

Cutting the oci in half would be more than adequate. Some on the ecodiesel forum would call it wasteful. I call it cheap insurance.
 

BuffaloBill

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Give it a few months. Fca till drop a tab saying go with the standard rotella t6 and that's what all the dealers will start using if they aren't already.

Mark my words. They did this with the last ecodiesel too, wanting a specific rarely mentioned standard then finally approved a normal diesel industry standard.
I was thinking this could happen also. Will wait and see.
 

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Compression-Ignition

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What kinda oil filter a canister or an internal?
One of the guys in another thread suggested this was the oil filter location. Behind the red clip and to the left. Front of the engine is also to the left as noted by the big plastic cover that says Jeep 3.0L ECODIESEL. I've never even popped the hood on a 3.0 Diesel so I have no clue, truth be told.
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Based on this picture, the oil filter housing is to the left of the red fitting - follow the hard line until just before the bend = in behind it you can see a round housing & the top of a hex - that is where you place the socket to remove the housing. Definitely appears to be horizontal (as opposed to the V2.0 one which was vertical) the vert design held about 1/2 a cup of old oil in it unless you siphoned it out - maybe this is why they changed orientation. The new design looks like it is mounted farther forward on the engine versus the old engine.
 

mtnmerlin

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This picture clearly shows the oil filter location. It is at an angle.

CFBA0ACD-19A0-4E3D-BB4E-B9E32FAE8082.jpeg
 

JLURD

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This picture clearly shows the oil filter location. It is at an angle.

CFBA0ACD-19A0-4E3D-BB4E-B9E32FAE8082.jpeg
It looks like the angled block extension it screws into should catch most residual oil that might otherwise run down the side when the filter is removed too. Should be pretty easy with a decent ratchet extension and a knuckle for it.
 

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Compression-Ignition

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Engine Oil With Filter 3.0L Turbo Diesel Engine (SAE 5W-40 Synthetic, API SN) 9 Quarts 8.5 Liters

^^^That's what I'm going to pay attention to.


If I find a deal on this oil they talk about here, I'll run it;



But I'm not going to pay a ridiculous premium for it. I'll stick with an API SN oil that will work in all of my rigs. And as they update and change certifications and engine oil requirements I'll keep going for the oil that will work in the majority of my rigs.

And currently while I still have one more 5 gallon bucket left that is Mobil Delvac 1 ESP.
I am putting my money where my mouth is here, just ordered 21 gallons of Mobil Delvac ESP 5W-40. Should be 2 years worth of oil changes.

Now the real thing I wanted to ask is this, has anyone found the oil filter anywhere? Is it always like this for a new engine model?
 

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Now the real thing I wanted to ask is this, has anyone found the oil filter anywhere? Is it always like this for a new engine model?
I can't imagine they would need to change the actual oil filter element to a new part number, but wouldn't be surprised if they did :facepalm:
I see several posts on fleabay that say 2011-2020 but I'd hardly take that as gospel -
 

Compression-Ignition

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I can't imagine they would need to change the actual oil filter element to a new part number, but wouldn't be surprised if they did :facepalm:
I see several posts on fleabay that say 2011-2020 but I'd hardly take that as gospel -
Why on earth are these 40 bucks? Mopar part #68229402AA
Ummm, this is a lot of part # changes in a short period of time
the right one 68498720AA superceded by 68507598AA (the new right one......?)

and they are $60-70 :lipssealed:

Good grief and it looks as if it is just cellulose media to boot. No painted metal outside. No metal threads. No wire mesh. No valve? There is literally nothing to this thing and they charge a ridiculous amount for it.
 
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