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Will I benefit much from Sway Bar Quick Disconnects?

Ran4

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I'm trying to decide which (if any) quick disconnect sway bar links to get. I'm driving a JLUS with a 1.5" Teraflex spacer lift (2" front, 1.5" rear), 33" AT tires, and 1.5" wheel spacers. While I respect the opinions otherwise, I'm not at all interested in cutting the tab off to accommodate the JKS links, so they are out for me. I've done a forum search on the subject, and have read everything I can find, but I still can't seem to find the right fit for my set up. I understand that whether I need them or not depends entirely on what type of riding I like to do, but suffice it to say that while I'm unlikely to do extreme rock crawling, I have 'flexed' the suspension (see Avatar pic)

What say you?..
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ThirtyOne

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I’m in the minority but i just use a wrench and disconnect the standard links myself. I just remove the lower bolts. I just got an impact wrench to make it faster. It can be done in a few minutes each side.

There are definitely situations where that extra travel comes in handy.
 
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Ran4

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I’m in the minority but i just use a wrench and disconnect the standard links myself. I just remove the lower bolts. I just got an impact wrench to make it faster. It can be done in a few minutes each side.

There are definitely situations where that extra travel comes in handy.
I was wondering about that (..just disconnecting the old fashioned way). I'm plenty handy enough to disconnect them, and carrying a small impact isn't a big deal. So you disconnect the lower bolts, but then do you swing the links up and strap or zip tie them to the frame?
 

Roky

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I was wondering about that (..just disconnecting the old fashioned way). I'm plenty handy enough to disconnect them, and carrying a small impact isn't a big deal. So you disconnect the lower bolts, but then do you swing the links up and strap or zip tie them to the frame?
You can pack wrenches and do it the old fashioned way for sure, and it might be the way to go if you’re only disconnecting once in a while. But if you find yourself doing it more often I’d recommend these....:)

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Ran4

Ran4

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You can pack wrenches and do it the old fashioned way for sure, and it might be the way to go if you’re only disconnecting once in a while. But if you find yourself doing it more often I’d recommend these....:)

C9B19FBE-E7A0-4C40-AB1C-D07DF17C4142.jpeg
Roky....from what I understand, installing these JKS disconnects requires that the passenger side mounting tab for the OEM link be cut off. I know that doesn't bother some guys, but I'm not so sure that I wanna do that. There's no going back at that point (aside from having a tab welded back on, I suppose).

On the other hand, if I wind up replacing the OEM front bumper with a stubby (..it's on my list..;)), reaching in with wrenches looks pretty simple (especially if a guy had with him a cordless 90 degree impact wrench).

It would give me something to do while my wife is airing down the tires..:)
 

Jeepjunkie

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I use JKS discos and I didn’t cut off the super thick tab on my PR44. I bolted the bottom of the right disconnect and got a longer slide off pin from JKS (a duplicate of the left side pin which is longer than th right pin with the kit) and fixed that to the top. When I disconnect that right side I just zip tie that right sided disco top to the lower coil of the spring and have had no issues on multiple trips. Someday I’ll make a bracket though.
 
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Ran4

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I use JKS discos and I didn’t cut off the super thick tab on my PR44. I bolted the bottom of the right disconnect and got a longer slide off pin from JKS (a duplicate of the left side pin which is longer than th right pin with the kit) and fixed that to the top. When I disconnect that right side I just zip tie that right sided disco top to the lower coil of the spring and have had no issues on multiple trips. Someday I’ll make a bracket though.
That's a good idea! ..and as long as you have no issues with that right side disco being zip tied to the coil spring I guess you're good to go. I'm a little anal that way, so I would definitely be wanting a more secure parking place for that link.. Thanks for the tip!
 

Jeepjunkie

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Another guy I know just disconnects the left side and leaves the right side connected. You have to make sure you have the discos extended such that the left side of the sway bar doesn’t hit the left axle during left axle full stuff. I might try that someday too.
 

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Ran4

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Another guy I know just disconnects the left side and leaves the right side connected. You have to make sure you have the discos extended such that the left side of the sway bar doesn’t hit the left axle during left axle full stuff. I might try that someday too.
I disconnected the bottom on both sides today just to see how easy it is. It's actually pretty simple (and fast), especially with a cordless 90 degree impact and an 18mm box wrench. If/when I ditch the OEM bumper and install a stubby, it will be even easier. After disconnecting, I swung the links up, and zip tied them to the upper coil spring pocket, and then went for a drive around our neighborhood. I can definitely feel the difference around corners. I'm wondering if my tie off locations for the links will cause any issues. What do you think?

IMG_20200112_153207.jpg


IMG_20200112_153151.jpg
 

Jeepjunkie

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I disconnected the bottom on both sides today just to see how easy it is. It's actually pretty simple (and fast), especially with a cordless 90 degree impact and an 18mm box wrench. If/when I ditch the OEM bumper and install a stubby, it will be even easier. After disconnecting, I swung the links up, and zip tied them to the upper coil spring pocket, and then went for a drive around our neighborhood. I can definitely feel the difference around corners. I'm wondering if my tie off locations for the links will cause any issues. What do you think?

IMG_20200112_153207.jpg


IMG_20200112_153151.jpg
That’s where I zip tie my sway bar, looks great.
Just make sure the sway bar is pulled up high enough so the axle doesn’t hit it at full stuff when flexed. Have a great week.
 
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sacourtney07

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Metalcloak makes quick disconnects that you don't need to cut the tab to install. The swaybar links will probably be too long for your lift, but you can cut those down and re-thread them easily enough.
 
 



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